400m, 16 pitches.
The standard route for ascents of Mt Kenya in the northern hemisphere winter. Batian can be achieved by crossing the Gates of the Mist. Ascent 7hrs / traverse Gates of the mist 3hrs / Abseil descent 3hrs. Graded UIAA IV-.
The first two pitches can be easily soloed to the normal roping up point at the belay on the start of pitch 3.
Easy rocks straight up for 20m to a big terrace, move to the left end of the big terrace to a gully, snow possible. Ascend this for 20m, then traverse back right onto easy ledges and the belay of pitch 3. Traversing right trending upwards then descend slightly before an airy step over to the base of a deep, long chimney (Mackinder's), belay. Go down 2m then 6m right to platform with peg belays, at the right end of ledge, step round an edge onto a face to a crack in a steep wall (easier than it looks) . Climb this (IV-) bypassing a triangular roof to its right then climbing wider cracks to a big ledge (20m), belay. On the right is the base of One O'Clock Gully, follow this for 80m then step round onto the arête on the right looking for a large flat block, belay. Head up and right over easy ground to reach Baillie's Bivouac, about 60m above the broad scree covered ledges, and 3m below the ridge crest. Above, the ridge steepens to a wall leading to the top of Mackinder's Gendarme. Baillie's Bivouac is normally ice-filled and very cramped. Cross over the ridge, go down and left for 10m, then right up easy rocks left of gendarme, aiming for a long left-facing corner line; the base of this is reached over a few steeper steps. Above is the crux, De Graaf's Variation. Climb the square-cut corner direct to a ledge (20m, IV+), you can skirt De Graafs variation by descending slightly left and climbing a gully heading back up right to the notch. Head straight up for 50m, easy climbing until stopped by a vertical red wall. Traverse right and down, crossing the steep upper rocks of an amphitheatre (III+) to gain the other side or down climb the ridge by 20m and traverse the amphitheatre (III+) to gain the other side (easier), then ascend to easier ground in a gully. Follow this over a steepening (III-) to the easy upper section. Near top of gully steep, easy rocks on right lead to the Nelion summit.
Scramble along ridge and abseil into Gate of the Mists. (Possible to leave a 45m rope hanging into the gap and across to the other side, to facilitate the return). Traverse the right (north) side below a gendarme and move up to a ridge. Follow ridge to summit of Batian, avoiding difficulties by moving onto the south side (III+ if snow free).
There is a bolted abseil descent set at 25m intervals, do not be tempted to abseil in 60m blocks as your ropes will get caught. All directions for the abseils are taken as you are facing in towards the mountain.
Ab #1: Cross the chossy ascent gully at the top of the Nelion Standard Route to a platform on the left. (+/- 20m).
Scramble: Follow the arrow diagonally down to the left to the top of a vertical red face. This steep face is seen about 50m above the De Graafs Variation pitch on the way up. The abseil bolt can only be seen when looking over the edge.
Ab #2 to #6: Five single rope abseils tending slightly rightwards and past the De Graaf's Variation to the loose, blocky rock at the base of Mackinder's Gendarme (below the SE ridge).
Scramble: Back up to the SE ridge at Baillie's Bivi.
Ab #7: The bolt is found on a block on the SE ridge 10m to the left of Baillies bivi. A 20m abseil straight down reaches a painted green marker on the East Traverse.
Scramble: 40 to 50m to the left and down the East Traverse. The next bolt is hidden in a slight recess and is difficult to see from this direction. Follow and trust the direction of the green arrow, or memorise the location of the bolt from the ascent.
Ab #8: Straight down to a big ledge (20m).
Ab #9: Dogleg abseil from the left hand side of the ledge. Go down and left along a ramp for 10m (the painted marking is misleading here at "20m").
Ab #10: Straight down +/- 20m.
Ab #11: Straight down a steep face, followed by a free-hanging abseil over a roof. The abseil ends on an uncomfortably angled slab in an alcove underneath the roof at close to 25m.
Ab #12 to #14:Three more single rope abseils tending leftwards and ending back on the ground about 30m to the right of the Nelion Standard Route start.
The first two pitches can be easily soloed to the normal roping up point at the belay on the start of pitch 3.
Easy rocks straight up for 20m to a big terrace, move to the left end of the big terrace to a gully, snow possible. Ascend this for 20m, then traverse back right onto easy ledges and the belay of pitch 3. Traversing right trending upwards then descend slightly before an airy step over to the base of a deep, long chimney (Mackinder's), belay. Go down 2m then 6m right to platform with peg belays, at the right end of ledge, step round an edge onto a face to a crack in a steep wall (easier than it looks) . Climb this (IV-) bypassing a triangular roof to its right then climbing wider cracks to a big ledge (20m), belay. On the right is the base of One O'Clock Gully, follow this for 80m then step round onto the arête on the right looking for a large flat block, belay. Head up and right over easy ground to reach Baillie's Bivouac, about 60m above the broad scree covered ledges, and 3m below the ridge crest. Above, the ridge steepens to a wall leading to the top of Mackinder's Gendarme. Baillie's Bivouac is normally ice-filled and very cramped. Cross over the ridge, go down and left for 10m, then right up easy rocks left of gendarme, aiming for a long left-facing corner line; the base of this is reached over a few steeper steps. Above is the crux, De Graaf's Variation. Climb the square-cut corner direct to a ledge (20m, IV+), you can skirt De Graafs variation by descending slightly left and climbing a gully heading back up right to the notch. Head straight up for 50m, easy climbing until stopped by a vertical red wall. Traverse right and down, crossing the steep upper rocks of an amphitheatre (III+) to gain the other side or down climb the ridge by 20m and traverse the amphitheatre (III+) to gain the other side (easier), then ascend to easier ground in a gully. Follow this over a steepening (III-) to the easy upper section. Near top of gully steep, easy rocks on right lead to the Nelion summit.
Scramble along ridge and abseil into Gate of the Mists. (Possible to leave a 45m rope hanging into the gap and across to the other side, to facilitate the return). Traverse the right (north) side below a gendarme and move up to a ridge. Follow ridge to summit of Batian, avoiding difficulties by moving onto the south side (III+ if snow free).
There is a bolted abseil descent set at 25m intervals, do not be tempted to abseil in 60m blocks as your ropes will get caught. All directions for the abseils are taken as you are facing in towards the mountain.
Ab #1: Cross the chossy ascent gully at the top of the Nelion Standard Route to a platform on the left. (+/- 20m).
Scramble: Follow the arrow diagonally down to the left to the top of a vertical red face. This steep face is seen about 50m above the De Graafs Variation pitch on the way up. The abseil bolt can only be seen when looking over the edge.
Ab #2 to #6: Five single rope abseils tending slightly rightwards and past the De Graaf's Variation to the loose, blocky rock at the base of Mackinder's Gendarme (below the SE ridge).
Scramble: Back up to the SE ridge at Baillie's Bivi.
Ab #7: The bolt is found on a block on the SE ridge 10m to the left of Baillies bivi. A 20m abseil straight down reaches a painted green marker on the East Traverse.
Scramble: 40 to 50m to the left and down the East Traverse. The next bolt is hidden in a slight recess and is difficult to see from this direction. Follow and trust the direction of the green arrow, or memorise the location of the bolt from the ascent.
Ab #8: Straight down to a big ledge (20m).
Ab #9: Dogleg abseil from the left hand side of the ledge. Go down and left along a ramp for 10m (the painted marking is misleading here at "20m").
Ab #10: Straight down +/- 20m.
Ab #11: Straight down a steep face, followed by a free-hanging abseil over a roof. The abseil ends on an uncomfortably angled slab in an alcove underneath the roof at close to 25m.
Ab #12 to #14:Three more single rope abseils tending leftwards and ending back on the ground about 30m to the right of the Nelion Standard Route start.
Shipton and Wyn-Harris 06/Jan/1929.
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Route of Interest
Gates of the Mist
Grade: D 4a ***
(Mount Kenya)