Restricted Access
The first buttresses - Cara Norte, Ringo Star and Lion Rampant - are currently banned due to being in a nature reserve. Please avoid climbing here since doing so could jeopardise access to the rest of the crag.
25m.
Rockfax Description
The corner has been rebolted. There may be a 6b to the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The corner has been rebolted. It is an excellent climb (5+). The wall just righrt of the corner has also been rebolted. Likewise a quality climb, with a hard section at the start (6b?)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Psychonix | 15 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Whoever said this was rebolted, has a very strange definition! The lower bolts definitely are, but the anchor is rusted through! Also, not sure if you're meant to use the rusty piton, or if it's just a long run out! The bolt below the anchor is a mess of maillons where people have bailed off, which makes clipping a hassle when your clinging to the face. If you solo up a bit further along the crack to the left and into the cul, roughly 5m, there is another bolt where someone has set up an ab point. We anchored off this, belayed the second up, and then walked off. Though a 60m rope would be enough to ab down at this point. The actual climbing itself though is solid which makes it such a pity about the protection. Do yourself a favour, and look elsewhere unless you're looking for some sketchy excitement and potentially leaving some gear behind. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Whoever said this was rebolted, has a very strange definition! The lower bolts definitely are, but the anchor is rusted through! Also, not sure if you're meant to use the rusty piton, or if it's just a long run out! The bolt below the anchor is a mess of maillons where people have bailed off, which makes clipping a hassle when your clinging to the face. If you solo up a bit further along the crack to the left and into the cul, roughly 5m, there is another bolt where someone has set up an ab point. We anchored off this, belayed the second up, and then walked off. Though a 60m rope would be enough to ab down at this point. The actual climbing itself though is solid which makes it such a pity about the protection. Do yourself a favour, and look elsewhere unless you're looking for some sketchy excitement and potentially leaving some gear behind. |
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Route of Interest
The Shark's Fin Direct
Grade: 5c ***
(Boquer Valley)