Start at the lowest point of Aguida Encantada, passed on walk in to Espolon Central Sector; route name painted at base. Follow easy grooves and walls rightwards (simul-climbing possible) until reaching a large vegetated ledge. A fine direct variation at 4+/5 is possible on the wall above, otherwise avoid this by ac vegetated groove to right. Belay below the obvious fine corner and slab. Continue up the right hand side side of the slab, making use of old fixed gear, to another stance. Move left to the arete and a stunning position. Move easily upwards in increasingly spectacular situtations, belaying as necessary, until the summit of the pinnacle. Abseil descent possible to right, into Los Lobos Canyon - good gear in notch between summit and next pinnacle.

Juan Ruiz 01/May AltLd O/S

Primero en 1er y penúltimo largo. 4 largo en libre. Penúltimo largo realizado por la arista en lugar de el diedro (haciendo travesía a izquierdas, tras unos bloques de piedra, remontamos por una fisura hasta enlazar con la vía original 5/5+). El rapel se hace desde dos tornillos con eslabones viejos, precario. El rapel fue guiado hasta un segundo rapel de 5 metros desde unos cordinos.

with Lamberto, Pablo Perea
Hidden 05/Mar AltLd β
A Mountain Journey 23/Jan Lead

Initial pitches were difficult to follow and a few wrong turns taken. From pitch 5 onwards it was much more straightforward to follow and with much better climbing. There's quite a bit of fixed gear (threads and pegs), although it's getting old. Many belays look like they've been recently bolted (shiny new bolts) so retreat would be more straightforward. However, this is definitely a 'trad' route, with slings and wallnuts especially useful. Didn't use any cams and would suggest not bothering. The final 100m or so on the narrow arete is splendid and more than makes up for some of the more mediocre climbing lower down. 4 abseils got us into the Los Lobos canyon. Ab 1: About 10m into a notch. Bolts are old. We backed up the in-situ rope with a sling. Ab 2: About 35m into the Lobos canyon (towards the main bulk of Puig). From new looking bolts and chain link. Ab 3: About 45m (although could do a shorter one of about 30m and scramble) into the gully proper. This was from 2 ancient pegs and crappy tat. We backed up the tat linking the pegs, but still felt uncomfortable. Ab 4: This one is avoidable but seemed safest option as we were tired. From previous landing point, head left, looking out, toward Espolon Central area, scramble onto a subsidiary ridge to locate a thread (in-situ gear Jan 2015) and abseil about 8m into the huge gully. From here scramble to the base of Espolon Central. Note: Between pitch 5 & 6 is a huge terrace. This provides a useful escape option to the right, towards Espolon Central. A scramble would lead easily to the base of EC. Equally, if wanting to miss out the less fun climbing of the early pitches, scramble to this ledge from EC and start the route here. A leisurely 7h 20m car to car Blog link with full route & descent description here:

with Kate
KateA 23/Jan 2nd
auld al 13/Jan AltLd O/S

Main abseil now well equipped with new bolts

Skullfire 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Loubylou 14/May/14 -
with Mark Edwards
HodgePL ?/Dec/12 AltLd
jayyaj ?/Oct/12 -
daveyji ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed the corner instaed of the slab. It was much harder than HS !!

with Linda Williamson
Hidden 08/May/11 AltLd O/S
andybeanland 15/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Peter Metcalfe 01/Feb/08 AltLd

Scary abseil descent on dubious gear

with Phil Team America
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