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Primero en 1er y penúltimo largo. 4 largo en libre. Penúltimo largo realizado por la arista en lugar de el diedro (haciendo travesía a izquierdas, tras unos bloques de piedra, remontamos por una fisura hasta enlazar con la vía original 5/5+). El rapel se hace desde dos tornillos con eslabones viejos, precario. El rapel fue guiado hasta un segundo rapel de 5 metros desde unos cordinos.
Juan Ruiz - AltLd O/S - 01/May/15 with Lamberto, Pablo Perea
Hidden - AltLd β - 05/Mar/15
Initial pitches were difficult to follow and a few wrong turns taken. From pitch 5 onwards it was much more straightforward to follow and with much better climbing.
There's quite a bit of fixed gear (threads and pegs), although it's getting old. Many belays look like they've been recently bolted (shiny new bolts) so retreat would be more straightforward.
However, this is definitely a 'trad' route, with slings and wallnuts especially useful. Didn't use any cams and would suggest not bothering.
The final 100m or so on the narrow arete is splendid and more than makes up for some of the more mediocre climbing lower down.
4 abseils got us into the Los Lobos canyon.
Ab 1: About 10m into a notch. Bolts are old. We backed up the in-situ rope with a sling.
Ab 2: About 35m into the Lobos canyon (towards the main bulk of Puig). From new looking bolts and chain link.
Ab 3: About 45m (although could do a shorter one of about 30m and scramble) into the gully proper. This was from 2 ancient pegs and crappy tat. We backed up the tat linking the pegs, but still felt uncomfortable.
Ab 4: This one is avoidable but seemed safest option as we were tired. From previous landing point, head left, looking out, toward Espolon Central area, scramble onto a subsidiary ridge to locate a thread (in-situ gear Jan 2015) and abseil about 8m into the huge gully.
From here scramble to the base of Espolon Central.
Note: Between pitch 5 & 6 is a huge terrace. This provides a useful escape option to the right, towards Espolon Central. A scramble would lead easily to the base of EC. Equally, if wanting to miss out the less fun climbing of the early pitches, scramble to this ledge from EC and start the route here.
A leisurely 7h 20m car to car
Blog link with full route & descent description here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/aristotles-puig-campana
A Mountain Journey - Lead - 23/Jan/15 with Kate
Main abseil now well equipped with new bolts
auld al - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/15
Skullfire - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with Jun Minohara
Loubylou - 14/May/14 with Mark Edwards
HodgePL - AltLd - Dec/12
jayyaj - Oct/12
Climbed the corner instaed of the slab. It was much harder than HS !!
daveyji - AltLd O/S - Sep/12 with Linda Williamson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/11
andybeanland - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/08 with Dad
Scary abseil descent on dubious gear
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 01/Feb/08 with Phil Team America