Cornwall > Trewavas Head Main Cliff >
 
Joy S 4a

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[Joy2, 2 kb]A well-travelled and well-protected line with plenty of interest and a low crux. Start directly below the left side of a low overhang. 20m. Gain a flake and use it to reach the overhang. Make some steep moves to pass it on the left and immediately pull back rightwards onto a ledge above it. Climb cracks that join up with the top of a narrow chimney and then continue up a crack and rounded breaks to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Joy2 © Hamish777
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 313 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

jhb0510 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Luke Randall

Way less stressful than I thought for my first S. Loved it.
Cherish - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Matt George

arandall - Solo rpt - 18/Mar/14

rather pumped at the crux from trying to place gear laybacking
andork123 - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Dan, Sam

was far to pumped after finally working out the crux
sam.carr21 - 2nd dnf - 22/Feb/14 with Dan, alex

grangedan - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/14

Big right step
Dominic Taylor - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Hannah

Fi's first lead fall in 14 years...
neilstubbs - 2nd rpt - 23/Nov/13 with Fiona McGowan

Low crux nice route
Kellz - 2nd O/S - 22/Nov/13

mauricechetwyndwoods1 - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/13 with andrew collinson

Pip's first trad climb! Tough with no shoes, a little bit of aiding needed, but a great effort! Great effort from Lottie too, a good level head :)
Jack J Keogan - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/13 with Pip Smith, Lottie Thorne

climb with pip, after yoga
Lottie Thorne - 2nd - 15/Nov/13 with Jack J Keogan

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Oct/13

Hidden - TR - 26/Oct/13

Top rope solo. Been forced to finish lots of climbs in the dark. This was the first one I started in the pitch black! Great route. With a big head torch it was no problem, and added to the excitement.
JamesColeman - TR O/S - 18/Oct/13

lucas95 - 2nd β - 17/Oct/13

nice climb
stuieb123 - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/13 with jamie merrick

mauricechetwyndwoods1 - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/13 with archie reed

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Sep/13

jonwheatley1 - 2nd dnf - 07/Sep/13 with neal edwards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/13

Mayo - 2nd - 29/Aug/13 with Wotsit

cathymiller - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Guy Moulton

guy757 - 19/Aug/13 with cj iles

Chrissy Richards - 19/Aug/13 with Guy757

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/13

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Len

Mike W - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/13

csd23 - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Richard Dodds

joeurwin - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Sam Robinson

afrosam - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Ali Skeats - 2nd - Jul/13 with dale pointon, caro moussy

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Debbie

Fletch - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/13 with Neil Stubbs

Hidden - TR - 24/Jun/13

LiveAndrew - 2nd β - 07/Jun/13 with George King

Hidden - 06/Jun/13

Alex Wade - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Charlotte Graves

LiveAndrew - TR O/S - 31/May/13 with Tony Windo

neilstubbs - Lead - 25/May/13 with Carl Godfrey

morganator - Solo - 15/May/13 with International Meet Guest

Sean Kelly - Lead - 13/May/13 with Alberto Rampini

tmather - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

Duncan Turner - Lead - 05/May/13 with stu

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Clare

Splidgey - 2nd - 19/Apr/13

Fletch - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/13 with Matthew Robinson

jpd80 - Lead - Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

arandall - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/12 with CUC Climbing Club

gingerking - Lead rpt - Oct/12

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Goss

First route for a while.
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Jakey

nice climb but a bit slippery in places
whiteexplorer - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Pete, Dave Piper

Ribbit - 2nd - 31/Aug/12 with pete, Tom

1ST Cornish Lead !!!
robertharris7 - Lead β - 26/Aug/12 with wayne clark

1st cornish climb, right at home:)
robertharris7 - 2nd - 25/Aug/12 with wayne clark

Nice route . First one of the day .. And the day just got better
mike hooper - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/12 with jobey martin

aljezurusrf08 - Lead rpt - 04/Aug/12 with Jango

Jango - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Si

Hidden - TR - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/12

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 27/Jul/12 with Solly Kemball Dorey

Mark Kemball - Lead - 26/Jul/12 with Solly Kemball Dorey

aljezurusrf08 - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12 with Samantha Bodley, Willow

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Rosyk

Rosyk - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Jay astbury

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/12

partz - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Clare Harris, Lydia Galloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

Clare Harris - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/12 with Lydia Galloway, Matthew Everatt

Fell midway after almost getting over the pumpy bit, super frustrating but a nice climb otherwise.
lydiagalloway - 2nd - 10/Jun/12 with Matt Everett, Clare Harris

Someone mentioned "cam eating crack", well it's still there, the cam that is!
Skip - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with A Walker

A Walker - Lead β - 09/Jun/12 with Skip

matiamallia - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12

aljezurusrf08 - TR rpt - 03/Jun/12 with Willow

blackrose - TR dnf - 03/Jun/12

Lovely climb, Cam eating crack!
ripoffthemonkey - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/12

Sean Kelly - Lead - 13/May/12 with Harry Pearce

1st lead, great start to the climb, but a bit easy after.
Log dog - Lead O/S - May/12 with jack reed

henryisagibson - TR - May/12 with Adam Tanner

annak - 2nd - 08/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Nick Skelton

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/12

mattshort - Solo - 06/Apr/12

kcollender - Lead - 05/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/12

rose394 - 2nd - 06/Mar/12

Wendy Watthews - Lead rpt - 04/Mar/12 with arandall

arandall - 2nd rpt - 04/Mar/12 with Wendy Matthews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/12

arandall - Solo rpt - 24/Feb/12

Hidden - TR dog - 19/Feb/12

andy_pemberton - 2nd - 15/Feb/12 with Katie Ball, Rik Meek

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Feb/12

Duncan Turner - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/12 with stu

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/12

arandall - Lead rpt - 03/Feb/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd - 03/Feb/12 with arandall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/12

e.sunnyside - Lead dog - Feb/12 with Alex Randall

aljezurusrf08 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jan/12 with Willow

gingerking - Lead O/S - Jan/12 with Eric Conrad-Brice

Hidden - 2012

dc88104 - Lead - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

M_Payne - 2nd - 2012

mad matt - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Tim Reynolds

timreynolds - 2nd - 26/Nov/11 with Matt Reynolds

climbhannahclimb - Lead - 26/Nov/11 with Kate Bolton

arandall - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Amber Thornton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11

I had climbed it before once, quite a while ago
jim.barritt - Lead β - 06/Nov/11 with Pete Tary, Rowena

Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Aiden

arandall - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Emma Wilson

g10formen - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11

e.sunnyside - 2nd - Oct/11 with Alex Randall

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Sep/11

mark_jee - Lead - 16/Sep/11 with Vicky

vickytee - 2nd - 16/Sep/11 with Mark

SamChessell - Solo rpt - 14/Sep/11

martinp - Lead - 12/Sep/11 with IanH

J.Hine - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Aug/11

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11

Warm-up
riddle - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/11

chrissy - Lead - 25/Jun/11 with chris f, chris jones

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/11

georgel - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with becca, pete

No matter how I tried to convince myself I couldn't bring myself to step and gain the ledge! Complete pussy!
Solcambs - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/11 with Neil Ronketti

TomHolliman - 2nd rpt - Jun/11

Hidden - 30/May/11

Kim Middlebrook - 30/May/11

Soaking wet from the ledge upwards, but good holds all the way.
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Max Streeton

flyinfrenchy - Solo rpt - 20/May/11

flyinfrenchy - Solo rpt - 15/May/11

Hamish777 - 2nd β - 13/May/11 with Mark Sharples

First S lead
mark sharples - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with Hamish McKee

manbat - Lead β - 12/May/11 with Ben Lawlor, Zach Lawlor

flyinfrenchy - Solo rpt - 12/May/11

Matts first Severe lead,
benlawlor85 - 2nd rpt - 12/May/11 with Matt, Zach Lawlor

flyinfrenchy - 2nd O/S - 08/May/11

mrrjmcneil - Lead - May/11 with stan

daveyji - 2nd - May/11 with Linda Williamson

toeshurtN8 - Lead - May/11 with Dave Felton

Great route but the first(best) part is over all too soon.
benlawlor85 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Jack

Barry D - Lead - 27/Apr/11 with Trish

Martin Stevens - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Mervyn L.

Sandbagged at s 4a more HS 4b. Good route though
gb83 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Ed

Attempt at first Severe lead. Very worn rocks made crux a complex move with limited foot grip. Due to lack of confidence in gear down climbed. Later successfully completed the move seconding.
egwp01 - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/11 with Graeme Baxter

Re attempt of climbing after failing lead. Completed although vrux very tricky.
egwp01 - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11 with Graeme Baxter

PeteBall - Lead RP - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/11

smallerrich - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Katie

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/11

andybenham - Lead rpt - 07/Apr/11 with Stann Norrie

Hidden - Lead rpt - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/11

jd2285 - 2nd - 25/Mar/11 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/11

robroy - TR - Mar/11

Wet
Tom Last - 2nd - 13/Feb/11 with Chester

bit damp, crux was good.
crobinson - Lead - 13/Feb/11 with Southern Man

Laura_S_C - TR O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Adam Jones

Nice moves left on the steeper part.
Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/11 with George King

first fall on trad gear.
gingerking - Lead O/S - Jan/11 with matt fry

This satisfying climb has become our standard warm up. Mostly juggy holds with nice more technical moves over the overhang.
royal - 2011

mark_jee - 2011

Really nice move to get over the overhag but not to hard, can easily put gear to far in below the overhang but ice route over all.
carlgodfrey - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/10

Dave Heaton - TR - 19/Oct/10

Hidden - TR - 19/Oct/10

royal - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/10 with rob

cornishbekx - TR dnf - Oct/10

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/10

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10

I seconded this a while ago so I am chuffed to bits to have lead it this time! It's one committed move over the bulge and that's it.
Hamish777 - Lead β - 16/Aug/10 with Andrea

Brilliant, rewally enjoyed this. More stars deserved for all climbs here!
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Hamish

Andyh83 - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Matt

Freddie 1 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Andyh83

berry - Lead - 05/Aug/10

pielander - 2nd - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/10

royal - Solo O/S - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/10

Martin Lilley - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/10 with Rosie Dyer

AmyR - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/10 with Sarah Wigley

sarahw189 - 2nd - 14/Jun/10 with Amy Griffiths

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10

Andrew Bangs - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10

With Phill (Rock Tors) and Alice. Safe Phill set the gear which i led on. Alice seconded.
KDW - Lead RP - 02/Jun/10

jakenichol - Lead - 27/May/10

haylow - 2nd - 27/May/10

JessicaBell - 2nd - 25/May/10

Disco Leg! Lol
arthurbeer - Lead O/S - 25/May/10

neilstubbs - TR - 10/May/10 with Stefan Parkin

Corky - TR dog - 03/Apr/10

mattshort - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Elly Pryce

Hidden - TR - Apr/10

Tom87 - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/10 with Nah, Poppy

jchenoweth - 2nd - 31/Mar/10 with Dan

Library Claire - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/10

Flake initially, step right and then groove to top. Very good. Sunny.
andrea83 - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Hamish

Great route with one hard move to get over the slight overhang.
Hamish777 - 2nd - 20/Feb/10 with Andrea

nickstephens - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/10 with Alex the king

1651SP - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/10 with nick

redshapedfriday - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/10

JerryD - 2010

cakebrake - Lead - 2010

james999 - Lead β - 2010

Seconding Dave and kyle during their leading course
nickstephens - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/09 with kyle, Dave

neilstubbs - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/09 with Matt Stuart

mbradberry2008 - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Alex Sanders-Page, Gareth Greeves

1651SP - Lead - 13/Sep/09 with Matt Bradberry

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - Sep/09

Yong_Welsh - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Don't be put off by the description, well protected where it matters.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Mark Glaister, Tom

I got one done at least... :)
ryansb90 - 2nd β - 22/Jun/09 with Nick

mattparratt - 2nd - 22/Jun/09

Dizz - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with James R

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/09

I DID NOT CLIMB JOY I climbed the sloping holds to the right (bwtween joy and sancho) to twin cracks ascending steeply, at the grassy ledge take the direct line to a mantle and top out (the diagonal crack is off route) Grade S 4a- "shoes undone"
Stick - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Adam Wade & Ali

Laura89 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09

I DID NOT CLIMB JOY I climbed the sloping holds to the right (bwtween joy and sancho) to twin cracks ascending steeply, at the grassy ledge take the direct line to a mantle and top out (the diagonal crack is off route) Grade S 4a- "shoes undone"
AbstractLogic - 2nd β - 14/Apr/09 with Ali and Stick

ckms - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Not Dave

Sam Longridge - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Simon Canning

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with shell + tessa

Tom Styles - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/09 with Will Bunce

Rowansb - 2009

Hidden - TR dnf - 2009

Dilwat - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/08 with dready

Master Chief - 2nd - 24/Oct/08 with Nick

Rusty2406 - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/08 with Tom

Master Chief - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/08 with Moe

gg4419 - 2nd rpt - Jul/08

cayteye - Lead - 05/Jun/08 with Paul Highams

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/08

Mayo - TR - 28/May/08 with Ross Jones

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/08

jezb1 - Lead - 26/Apr/08

Ing - 2nd - 20/Apr/08 with Jim

halhorner - 2nd - 20/Apr/08 with Steve Potter

stevepotter - Lead - 20/Apr/08 with hal

viking56 - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/08 with JEH

tradguy - 2nd - 06/Apr/08 with katy dartford

Master Chief - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Moe

jimjimmyjimjim - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/08

jesscooney - 2nd - 24/Mar/08 with jim

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/08

cem - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Steve Capes

leerybunny - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Tim Wilkinson

Tim W - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Oli Warren

Master Chief - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/08 with Jeremy

jgclimb - 2nd - 14/Jan/08 with tom

dready - 2nd - 2008 with dillwat

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Nov/07

erinbastian - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/07 with jacob phillips

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Oct/07

ellentaylor - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/07 with Adam Thomas

JackMountains - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/07 with Nick Cox

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

phil stubbs - Lead - 15/Aug/07 with liz baldock

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

midgelt - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Oli

hapymike - Lead - 03/May/07

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

dickjonesocp - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 27/Dec/06 with Clare

Zoomer - Lead - 27/May/06 with Nobby Clarke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/06

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/06

JackMountains - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/06 with Ben Snook

Ben Snook - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/06 with n0ph33r

On up the flake looked easier than rock over on to the ledge so I did that.
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/06 with Dr Danger

Rokmunky - Lead O/S - Apr/06

ebunick - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/06 with Lou & Dunc

pmoody - Lead O/S - 2006 with Jacob Phillips

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/05

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/04

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2004

Alaric - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/03 with Paul G, Karen B

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/02

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/01

good, worth *
Rog Wilko - Lead - Feb/01 with Debbie Wilkinson

bpmclimb - Solo O/S - Aug/99

Jamie B - Lead - Apr/99 with Billy Lo, Henry Loveless

FrankW - Lead O/S - 03/May/98 with Joe

Iain Thow - Lead - 13/Nov/95 with David Roberts

tradguy - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/95 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 03/Oct/95 with paul highams

Hidden - TR - 01/Jan/93

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/92 with Mark

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DaveGoesClimbing, David Wynne, elbeanio, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 102
hard HS0 of 37
HS0 of 37
easy HS2 of 37
hard S5 of 37
S29 of 37
easy S1 of 37
hard HVD0 of 37
HVD0 of 37
easy HVD0 of 37
hard 4b0 of 33
4b0 of 33
easy 4b4 of 33
hard 4a17 of 33
4a12 of 33
easy 4a0 of 33
hard 3c0 of 33
3c0 of 33
easy 3c0 of 33
3 Stars1 of 32
2 Stars9 of 32
1 Star16 of 32
0 Stars6 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed14 of 313 (4.5%)
Lead153 of 313 (48.9%)
Followed108 of 313 (34.5%)
Toproped24 of 313 (7.7%)
Alt Leads1 of 313 (0.3%)
Unknown13 of 313 (4.2%)

'Climbed'117 of 313 (37.4%)
clean O/S138 of 313 (44.1%)
clean β11 of 313 (3.5%)
clean rpt28 of 313 (8.9%)
clean RP2 of 313 (0.6%)
dogged6 of 313 (1.9%)
dnf11 of 313 (3.5%)