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South-West Ridge** IV 5

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Douglas Gap West Gully >>
[DStrawbridge on South-West Ridge of The Douglas Boulder, 1 kb]180m, 5 pitches. Upgraded to IV,5 in the latest SMC Scottish Winter Climbs guide. First Pitch (which can be avoided by going gully and following groove) and last pitch hardest.
J.Y.MacDonald, H.W.Turnbull Mar/1934

Photo: DStrawbridge on South-West Ridge of The Douglas Boulder © SUColdo
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 102 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - 29/Mar/14

colenn - 24/Mar/14 with Liam Brophy, Rob Noone

rob87n - 24/Mar/14 with Colm ennis, Liam Brophy

Andrew Holden - 2nd - 23/Mar/14

Poor conditions of rising temperatures, rain and high gusting winds meant options very limited for 4th day of guided climbing based at CIC hut. Route only just in condition - semi-frozen turf with numerous loose blocks. Tricky move exiting short chimney on last pitch. Descent from Douglas Boulder via abseil to Douglas Gap and further abseil down top half of East Gully.
LogieNick - 2nd - 20/Mar/14 with Glenmore Lodge Ice & Mixed Climbing Ben Nevis

Luke
davebrox - Lead - 18/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/14

mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/14 with Will R

Scott Rankin - AltLd - 03/Mar/14 with Martin Mckenna

martinmckenna - AltLd - 03/Mar/14 with Scott Rankin

Lots of snow covering most of the holds.
Stuart Wildman - 2nd - 01/Mar/14 with Neil

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/14

Melty ice and snow. Backed off.
LJC - 19/Feb/14 with Rich, Little Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14

Started at the groove/crack next to the West Gully - tech 6 (Yuki's hardest climb so far), at least today. The rest was V, 4 - technically not hard, but sparse and hard-gained protections. It took 1 hour from the CIC hut just to get to the starting point of P1, primarily because of the deep powder snow. Starting after 2pm meant we finished climbing in the dark in 4 pitches in total. Abbed off all the way to the foot of East Gully.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/14 with Yuki S

2010_graham - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/14 with Olle K

Sideways into it and finished the Route. Lots of snow.
olekemi - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/14 with Iain M, Graham D

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Feb/14

Good interesting climbing all the way. Wasn't 180m, probably 120m
SUColdo - AltLd - 04/Feb/14 with DStrawbridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/14

good climb, snow wasn't great. Fun climb though.
DStrawbridge - AltLd - 04/Feb/14 with colin

Loads of (good) snow. Start was banked out, probably a fair bit easier than usual.
RKernan - Lead - 03/Feb/14 with Kora Przybyszewska

magik_bob - 2nd - 03/Feb/14

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Jan/14

wild day on the ben good safe option
phil64 - Lead rpt - 20/Jan/14

Really nice route. Bomber neve and good pro. Topped out and then down climbed back to ab point.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/14 with Steve Grove

Hidden - 19/Jan/14

Loads of Snow. Saw some big avalanches in Number 3 Gully
arose - Lead - 12/Jan/14 with Alfie Tipler

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with Richard Abell, Lucy Prins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/14

With Stu, powder tastic wading, nice route though, good choice for a poor weather day.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/14

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 20/Dec/13 with Kenny Grant

MR1969 - AltLd - 19/Mar/13 with Chris C, Darren

Harry Holmes - Solo O/S - 17/Mar/13

Started up the groove, avoiding P1. Douglas Gully W was a bit avalanchey and absolutely choked with powder.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/13 with Thijs Lubbers

Done it before but this time conditions made it a different proposition, a lot harder! Weather came in as predicted in the afternoon, got pretty grim. Chris did a heroic job getting us off the top, hairy! Hard work getting back to the hut ok from there. Three folk didn't, in the summit shelter until helo'd of 14:00hrs!!
mikehenesy - Lead β - Mar/13 with Chris Lodge

Upward spindrift kind of day.
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Geoff Thomas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/13

flett53 - AltLd - Feb/13

greglad - Feb/13

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/13 with Mark Booker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/13

GaryK - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/13 with Andy Cave

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jan/13

dav_713 - 15/Jan/13 with Davie Scott

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/13

took a fall after some 'turf' ripped. must be more careful! shaken but not broken so we abbed off
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd dnf - 27/Dec/12 with jamsey

Very good climb, nice one to get back into the swing of things. First winter route this season!
010paw - 2nd O/S - 15/Dec/12 with Guy Stephens, calum mcphee

Marcus led P1, I did 2 and 3
LibS - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/12 with Marcus Peabody

Nice route for a day low down the mountain.
Northern Mountain Monkey - 03/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Feb/12

Did the direct start but got caught behind 3 people who had hum-bugged us by starting further up the gully and cutting in above us (missing out the best bit), abbed off due to time constraints.
Jim Walton - AltLd dnf - 05/Feb/12 with Rob Davies

nice route, makes for a good short day if energy levels are low
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 30/Jan/12 with Lawrence

wence - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/12 with Rob

guy757 - AltLd - 29/Jan/12

Straightforward blocky climbing with good holds and lots of pro.
andybrown114 - Lead - 29/Jan/12 with Bobby Pearson, Mike Henessey

Andy lead what we thought was going to be a IV/V but it was more like a III/IV maybe? We missed out the first bit though,Guy and Ade reconed that bit was pretty tasty. Lovely climbing though, and performed as a collective! Us three, Guy Ade and Lloydy and Bill.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with andybrown114, Bobby Pearson

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jan/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/11

Proper Scottish winter day out! Great route for the conditions, but busy!
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Keith

great route. skipped the first pitch by starting further up the gully.
KeithAlexander - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Elsier

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/11

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 21/Feb/11 with Pete Robinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/11

rylett - 2nd - 10/Feb/11 with Paul Knowles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/11

chmckay - 2nd - 30/Jan/11 with Graham Boistelle

Pitch 1 only- spindriftastic!
IanMcC - Lead - 23/Jan/11 with ade

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Started via gully. Lots of powder on route so lots of searching round for good hooks. Last moves the most dificult, having to use tiny edges
Jimmy1976 - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Kenny

IJHunt - 2nd O/S - Mar/10

WilliamBurnside - AltLd - 28/Feb/10 with Robert Manby

mikelaing - 2nd - Jan/10 with Ian Whitehead

Hidden - 2010

thebat - AltLd - 13/Dec/09 with Ontour

Scary Descent
joeydurkin - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Dave Gleave

Interesting all the way
t_stork - AltLd - 28/Mar/09 with Andy Ruck

An excellend day in por conditions
John Roe - Lead - 10/Mar/09 with Ant Downing

Rusty led me & Adam on 2 half ropes.
kleky - 2nd O/S - Mar/09 with MRT Valley: Rusty

Hidden - Lead - Mar/09

peebles boy - 2nd - Mar/09

Great route, an interesting combination of rock and winter climbing. Led the 1st pitch. The route is nowhere near 180m as per the guidebook! We thought it was more like 120m.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 05/Feb/09 with Dave Kirby, Alex Wheldon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/09

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Neil Loydon

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Dec/08

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/08 with John Nesbitt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/08

Sandy P - AltLd - 21/Mar/08 with LukeO

Pete lead all pitches.
sasmojo - 2nd - 08/Mar/08 with Pete (WCMG), Jamie Evans

Martyn - 2nd O/S - Mar/08 with James Williams

dustbuddy - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/08 with Paul

MarkDavies36 - Lead O/S - 2008

glaramara - Lead - 01/Jul/07 with m clerk

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jan/07

tubby two - AltLd - 2004 with Colm

NickJH - Lead O/S - Feb/00

akhughes - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
LJC, Nath93, Hanakin, Lawrie Brand, Charlie Zephyr Booth, Highball_Mike, Watty

Voting
Total votes cast 67
hard V0 of 24
V0 of 24
easy V1 of 24
hard IV2 of 24
IV13 of 24
easy IV2 of 24
hard III6 of 24
III0 of 24
easy III0 of 24
hard 60 of 22
60 of 22
easy 60 of 22
hard 50 of 22
57 of 22
easy 51 of 22
hard 412 of 22
42 of 22
easy 40 of 22
3 Stars4 of 21
2 Stars14 of 21
1 Star2 of 21
0 Stars1 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 102 (1.0%)
Lead22 of 102 (21.6%)
Followed25 of 102 (24.5%)
Alt Leads41 of 102 (40.2%)
Unknown13 of 102 (12.7%)

'Climbed'58 of 102 (56.9%)
clean O/S38 of 102 (37.3%)
clean β2 of 102 (2.0%)
clean rpt1 of 102 (1.0%)
dnf3 of 102 (2.9%)