Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 6 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest on the main crag and the restriction covers the whole crag. If the birds fail to nest or fledge early then the restriction wil be lifted early and noted here.
45m, 2 pitches.
1] 27m 4b
Start at the boulder step under a quartz band, right of a small oak growing out of the crag. Climb up to the groove (with a possible belay at the oak tree ledge). Move right, then ascend the slabby groove to a steep broad rib. Climb the wall and move delicately onto a dirty short slab. Belay beneath the triangular overhang (The original ledge at this position has since collapsed).
2] 18m 4a
Step right at the belay, moving around the rib, then upwards and at the vegetated break move right onto the hanging slab to an easy finish.
Choice of lower offs here, or leftwards round a boulder to the ab point at the top of Sinister Flutes
Start at the boulder step under a quartz band, right of a small oak growing out of the crag. Climb up to the groove (with a possible belay at the oak tree ledge). Move right, then ascend the slabby groove to a steep broad rib. Climb the wall and move delicately onto a dirty short slab. Belay beneath the triangular overhang (The original ledge at this position has since collapsed).
2] 18m 4a
Step right at the belay, moving around the rib, then upwards and at the vegetated break move right onto the hanging slab to an easy finish.
Choice of lower offs here, or leftwards round a boulder to the ab point at the top of Sinister Flutes
J Richardson, D Williams Jul/1958.
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Route of Interest
Little Leo
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Crag DB)