Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 6 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest on the main crag and the restriction covers the whole crag. If the birds fail to nest or fledge early then the restriction wil be lifted early and noted here.
41m, 2 pitches.
1] 12m 4b
Originally the single pitch 'Outside Route' , A steep start just right of Gull's Nest Crack joins a heathery crack to a niche and up to the brow of 'The Boulder'.
2] 29m 4c
Cross the gap, and a rib on the left, and traverse leftwards under the overhang with a long step onto a small ledge. Cross to the edge of the slabwhere a steep broken rib leads to a groove system. Move 3 metres right to a choice of either the corner or the wall on the right. At the top of these, climb right again and finish up the hanging slab. Careful ropework is needed to minimise drag on this convoluted pitch.
Variation 1a] 12m 4b
Further out onto the edge of The Boulder (starting 3m right of Gull's Nest Crack) climb the short overhanging corner and follow the leftwards diagonal crack to the top.
Originally the single pitch 'Outside Route' , A steep start just right of Gull's Nest Crack joins a heathery crack to a niche and up to the brow of 'The Boulder'.
2] 29m 4c
Cross the gap, and a rib on the left, and traverse leftwards under the overhang with a long step onto a small ledge. Cross to the edge of the slabwhere a steep broken rib leads to a groove system. Move 3 metres right to a choice of either the corner or the wall on the right. At the top of these, climb right again and finish up the hanging slab. Careful ropework is needed to minimise drag on this convoluted pitch.
Variation 1a] 12m 4b
Further out onto the edge of The Boulder (starting 3m right of Gull's Nest Crack) climb the short overhanging corner and follow the leftwards diagonal crack to the top.
I Richardson, D Williams (p1 'Outside Route' ROF Wynne, W Jones 1930) Jul/1958.
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Route of Interest
Ruthless
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Crag DB)