Lot's Wife** VS 5a

Rockfax Description
A good route taking a great line up the cracked right-hand face of the grand pillar. Start 3m right of the large Capstan block.
1) 26m. Climb the rib and crack to belay just below the overhangs.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb over the small roof and up the groove (crux) then move left onto the rib and left again to access the crack. Follow this past a small ledge, move right and take the slanting groove to The Veranda. You can finish up Direct Route here or follow The Left-Hand Crack as described below.
3) 8m. Move left along the ledge until below twin cracks.
4) 5a, 15m. Take the initial crack to where it splits then follow the left-hand one to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
2 Pitch

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: Kirkus Routes, UK Classic Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

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This climb is in 58 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Hidden - 13/Aug/15

Hard move getting from the lower finger-jamming crack onto the rib. Took the block above on the left.
Allan FW - AltLd - 08/Aug/15 with Ken

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/15

Not an easy customer. 1+2 in one very long pitch, finished up Direct Route. Should've known that north facing this early in the season will bring some problems, in this case slimy cracks. Not good for jams.
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Jack

Dan724 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Ollie Halford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14

Thought this harder than Lots Groove that I led afterwards
Ian Stirrups - 2nd - 09/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/14

John Nuttall - Lead - 16/May/14 with Andy H

oldmanofmow - 2014

Roget - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with jim

Found the splinter hard, loads of gear
Rob Evans - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/13

Splendid route, the initial crack felt harder that anything on Lot's Groove, though short lived.
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Carmen

nice, awkward at the slot.
lithos - 2nd - 15/Jul/13 with tony w

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

sustained at the grade. top quality.
peter myers - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/May/13

francesanncavanagh - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Craig Fussy Pants Letham

It's an ok route. Lead the easy pitches. Pretty slimy in the cracks, stiff for VS 4c but probably the right grade. Loads of gear.
jezb1 - AltLd - 21/May/12

Rich God 3 - AltLd - 21/May/12 with Jez

seb m-c - 2nd - 23/Aug/11 with Martin Callaghan

With Seb. Seemed very hard for VS perhaps on the E1?
martin c - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11

1906johns - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/09

groovy_nut - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with David

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/09

nakedave - Lead - Jul/09

Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 31/May/09 with Paul Melrange

Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Jane Terry

Dave Wearing - Lead - 09/Jun/07 with Sandra Handcock.

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/07

richardr - Apr/07

Ian McNeill - 2006

Gman - Lead O/S - May/05 with Steve

Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/04 with Kris Quayle

Mark Riley - AltLd - Sep/03 with Stuart Greenall

Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jun/02 with Daver Hollows

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

Raggar - Lead - 2000 with Andy J

alan moore - 2000

babymoac - Lead - 07/Aug/98 with Gordon C

Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 1998 with Nick Hanie

ewjudge - AltLd dog - 31/Aug/97 with Jez Hicks

Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glanfor

Raggar - AltLd - 1990 with Jon B

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/89

nigehughes - Lead - Apr/88 with Ian Maguire

Hidden - Jul/79

mikej - AltLd - 17/May/75 with Bill Church

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 20/Sep/72 with John Stainforth

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 16/Jul/72

Hidden - Lead - 1972

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, DanChad, alicee, CM1992, uphillnow, johnpr, franny, tomkhoward, C@rwyn, Jord64@msn.com, Mike Parker

Total votes cast 57
hard HVS0 of 20
HVS0 of 20
easy HVS4 of 20
hard VS8 of 20
VS8 of 20
easy VS0 of 20
hard HS0 of 20
HS0 of 20
easy HS0 of 20
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
hard 5a0 of 20
5a2 of 20
easy 5a4 of 20
hard 4c10 of 20
4c4 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 17
2 Stars14 of 17
1 Star3 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S