Rockfax Description
A good route taking a great line up the cracked right-hand face of the grand pillar. Start 3m right of the large Capstan block.
1) 26m. Climb the rib and crack to belay just below the overhangs.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb over the small roof and up the groove (crux) then move left onto the rib and left again to access the crack. Follow this past a small ledge, move right and take the slanting groove to The Veranda. You can finish up Direct Route here or follow The Left-Hand Crack as described below.
3) 8m. Move left along the ledge until below twin cracks.
4) 5a, 15m. Take the initial crack to where it splits then follow the left-hand one to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
2 Pitch

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: Kirkus Routes, UK Classic Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Hidden 13/Aug -
Allan FW 08/Aug AltLd

Hard move getting from the lower finger-jamming crack onto the rib. Took the block above on the left.

with Ken
Hidden 11/Jun Lead
GermanAlex 23/May Lead O/S

Not an easy customer. 1+2 in one very long pitch, finished up Direct Route. Should've known that north facing this early in the season will bring some problems, in this case slimy cracks. Not good for jams.

with Jack
Dan724 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Ollie Halford
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Ian Stirrups 09/Aug/14 2nd

Thought this harder than Lots Groove that I led afterwards

Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 16/May/14 Lead
with Andy H
oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
Roget 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with jim
Rob Evans ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Found the splinter hard, loads of gear

Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead
Simon Caldwell 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Splendid route, the initial crack felt harder that anything on Lot's Groove, though short lived.

with Carmen
lithos 15/Jul/13 2nd

nice, awkward at the slot.

with tony w
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
peter myers 09/Jun/13 AltLd

sustained at the grade. top quality.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead O/S
francesanncavanagh 06/May/13 2nd
with Craig Fussy Pants Letham
jezb1 21/May/12 AltLd

It's an ok route. Lead the easy pitches. Pretty slimy in the cracks, stiff for VS 4c but probably the right grade. Loads of gear.

Rich God 3 21/May/12 AltLd
with Jez
seb m-c 23/Aug/11 2nd
with Martin Callaghan
martin c 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S

With Seb. Seemed very hard for VS perhaps on the E1?

1906johns 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 2nd
groovy_nut 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with David
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
nakedave ?/Jul/09 Lead


Peter Metcalfe 31/May/09 Lead
with Paul Melrange
Alex Thompson 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Jane Terry
Dave Wearing 09/Jun/07 Lead
with Sandra Handcock.
Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Gman ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Steve
Jamie B ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
Mark Riley ?/Sep/03 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Daver Hollows
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
lost.arrow ?/May/01 AltLd
with Perry Yapp
Raggar ??/2000 Lead
with Andy J
alan moore ??/2000 -
babymoac 07/Aug/98 Lead
with Gordon C
Paul-Michael ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Nick Hanie
ewjudge 31/Aug/97 AltLd dog
with Jez Hicks
Rob Davies ?/Jul/94 2nd
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Raggar ??/1990 AltLd
with Jon B
Hidden 06/May/89 2nd
nigehughes ?/Apr/88 Lead
with Ian Maguire
Hidden ?/Jul/79 -
mikej 17/May/75 AltLd
with Bill Church
Gordon Stainforth 20/Sep/72 2nd
with John Stainforth
Bolt Phobia 16/Jul/72 Lead
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MattKnight, James A.S Read, DanChad, alicee, CM1992, Hidden, uphillnow, johnpr, Hidden, franny, Hidden, Hidden, tomkhoward, C@rwyn, Hidden, Jord64@msn.com, Mike Parker
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set