Lot's Groove*** HVS 5b
[Old guy soloing on Glyder Fach, 2 kb]34m.

Rockfax Description
A great pitch up the steep, shallow groove overlooking the gully.
1) 26m. As for Lot's Wife.
2) 5a, 30m. Move out right to reach the groove. Climb up this - sustained and exposed but excellent and with good protection throughout. Either finish up Direct Route, Lot's Wife or tackle The Right-Hand Crack as described below.
3) 8m. Move left to belay below the twin cracks.
4) 5b, 15m. Move up the crack to where it splits and climb the right-hand crack. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
1.5a 2.3b


1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Old guy soloing on Glyder Fach © Oliver Wright
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation).
erbridger - AltLd - 23/Sep/14

Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation.
Kate Edhouse - AltLd - 21/Sep/14

Difficulties mainly in the first half. Tought this a little easier than Lots Wife
Ian Stirrups - Lead - 09/Aug/14 with Sue

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14

Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/14 with George

John Nuttall - 2nd - 16/May/14 with Andy H

Hidden - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

Si - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

C led the main pitch, I led the easy Chasm Route approach and the short steep corner to finish. Brilliant route, harder and steeper than it looks, but seemed to be lots of 4c rather than any 5a.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Carmen

brilliant, soft and well protected but lovely
lithos - Lead - 15/Jul/13 with tony w

martrin - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

peter myers - Lead O/S - Jul/12

peter myers - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Shaw Brown - Lead - 26/May/12 with Neil Harvey

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

David Smith - 2nd - 2012 with Stuart Holmes

al99 - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Lee Wales

tim20 - AltLd - 20/Jun/11 with tom sampson

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

I led easy 1st pitch.
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with andrea

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11

1906johns - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11

Chris M - Lead - 17/Apr/11 with Tommy B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

lead groove
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Colin Harvey

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/10

david morse - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with owain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Ows - AltLd - Jun/10

Nice climb, one to lead
hepitt - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Rob Pitt

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Helen Pitt

matt.woodfield - Lead - 15/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Nails offwidth
mynyddresident - AltLd - Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Good sustained climbing. never too hard and good pro.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Michel and james

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

nakedave - Lead - Jul/09

Ken Taylor - Lead - 01/Jun/08 with Hilary Robertson, Chris Michalak

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/07

richardr - Apr/07

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Kate

Well actually I slipped at the top but only because I'm rubbish.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Jun/06 with Chris Lodge

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - May/05

John Kettle - Lead - 2003

Nice, technical bridging with no great difficulties.
alan moore - 2000

Tenko - AltLd - 08/Aug/98 with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen

five - Lead O/S - Sep/97 with CH, TW

JD pitch 1
iskra2000 - AltLd - 10/Aug/97 with John Dale

Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glanfor

babymoac - Lead - 24/Jun/89 with Chris B

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/89

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 17/May/77

mikej - 2nd - 17/May/75 with Bill Church

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 20/Sep/72 with John Stainforth

Brian Bates NSMC. A superb route the crack through the overhang is a gritstone severe at most but good protection.
oldmanofmow - Lead - May/62

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, Peter Metcalfe, Katex, CM1992, johnpr, Superchop75, hepitt, franny, tomkhoward, PanzerHanzler, rabid, Jord64@msn.com, Mike Parker

Voting
Total votes cast 29
hard E10 of 12
E10 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard HVS1 of 12
HVS2 of 12
easy HVS8 of 12
hard VS1 of 12
VS0 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5b0 of 5
5b0 of 5
easy 5b0 of 5
hard 5a0 of 5
5a1 of 5
easy 5a2 of 5
hard 4c1 of 5
4c1 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
3 Stars4 of 12
2 Stars8 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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