Gwynedd > Glyder Fach >
 
Lot's Groove** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Lot's Wife
 
Chasm Route >>
[Old guy soloing on Glyder Fach, 2 kb]34m. 1) 5a, 30m. A great pitch up the steep shallow groove overlooking the gully. Start from the 1st stance of the Chasm and move out left to reach the groove. Up this, sustained exposed and excellent with good protection throughout. Finish up Lot's Wife. © ROCKFAX
1.5a 2.3b
1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: Old guy soloing on Glyder Fach © Oliver Wright
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Good gear on this and mostly delicate bridging and small slopey holds. The steep bit isnt as bad as it looks but the climb is generally harder than it looked. Foot accidentally popped half-way up. Finished up the direct route, brutal.
George_Surf - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Charlie Sanderson

Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/14 with George

John Nuttall - 2nd - 16/May/14 with Andy H

Hidden - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

Si - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

C led the main pitch, I led the easy Chasm Route approach and the short steep corner to finish. Brilliant route, harder and steeper than it looks, but seemed to be lots of 4c rather than any 5a.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Carmen

brilliant, soft and well protected but lovely
lithos - Lead - 15/Jul/13 with tony w

martrin - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

Shaw Brown - Lead - 26/May/12 with Neil Harvey

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

David Smith - 2nd - 2012 with Stuart Holmes

al99 - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Lee Wales

tim20 - AltLd - 20/Jun/11 with tom sampson

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

I led easy 1st pitch.
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with andrea

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11

1906johns - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11

Chris M - Lead - 17/Apr/11 with Tommy B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

lead groove
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Colin Harvey

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/10

david morse - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with owain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Ows - AltLd - Jun/10

Nice climb, one to lead
hepitt - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Rob Pitt

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Helen Pitt

matt.woodfield - Lead - 15/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Nails offwidth
mynyddresident - AltLd - Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Good sustained climbing. never too hard and good pro.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Michel and james

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

nakedave - Lead - Jul/09

Ken Taylor - Lead - 01/Jun/08 with Hilary Robertson, Chris Michalak

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/07

richardr - Apr/07

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Kate

Well actually I slipped at the top but only because I'm rubbish.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Jun/06 with Chris Lodge

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - May/05

John Kettle - Lead - 2003

Tenko - AltLd - 08/Aug/98 with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen

five - Lead O/S - Sep/97 with CH, TW

JD pitch 1
iskra2000 - AltLd - 10/Aug/97 with John Dale

Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glanfor

babymoac - Lead - 24/Jun/89 with Chris B

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/89

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 17/May/77

mikej - 2nd - 17/May/75 with Bill Church

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 20/Sep/72 with John Stainforth

Brian Bates NSMC. A superb route the crack through the overhang is a gritstone severe at most but good protection.
oldmanofmow - Lead - May/62

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Peter Metcalfe, Hidden, Hidden, Katex, CM1992, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, Superchop75, hepitt, franny, Hidden, tomkhoward, PanzerHanzler, rabid, Hidden, Jord64@msn.com, Mike Parker, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E10 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS1 of 10
HVS2 of 10
easy HVS7 of 10
hard VS0 of 10
VS0 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 4
5b0 of 4
easy 5b0 of 4
hard 5a0 of 4
5a0 of 4
easy 5a2 of 4
hard 4c1 of 4
4c1 of 4
easy 4c0 of 4
3 Stars3 of 10
2 Stars7 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead25 of 60 (41.7%)
Followed11 of 60 (18.3%)
Alt Leads15 of 60 (25.0%)
Unknown9 of 60 (15.0%)

'Climbed'37 of 60 (61.7%)
clean O/S23 of 60 (38.3%)