Rockfax Description
The character building rifts on the right can be climbed in as many as six short pitches. Start 3m right of the large 'Capstan' block.
1) 30m. Climb the rib and crack as for Lot's Wife then move right into the base of the mighty rift below the overhangs.
2) 18m. Up the chasm until an exit right is possible. Head left over blocks back to the gully.
3) 15m. A crack on the left leads to flakes. Go behind these then back right into the gully.
4) 20m. Do battle with the jaws of the Vertical Vice then finish up the corner above.
4a) 25m. If the Vertical Vice shuts you down a devious escape can be made. Move up into the slot on the left. Tunnel in along the passage to where the chasm turns a corner. Head round this and chimney up the easier slot to be reborn on the top of the crag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch

1.91e+03 Jan/1991

Ticklists: A grand easy welsh day out, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

dansimkin 10/Oct AltLd O/S
with Matt Malkin
Luke Davies 19/Sep Solo
Hidden 13/Aug -
jimorothy 12/Jun AltLd

The Vice is brutal - a classic tussle - with a rucksack on. Rach breezed the Vice. Quality

with Rachel Crolla
PeteMc 23/May AltLd

In big boots

tom0french 23/May AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 23/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/14 AltLd
Samuel Wainwright 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Pouring rain and big boots.. The exit to the vice is memorable!

with Jed Jackson, Rob Steer
outdoorrob999 17/Oct/14 2nd
Ewan Russell 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Gorgeous day did some diff on tryfan before this did both the glyders afterwards.

with Alex(Blue peris)
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Climbing together 3rd climb on tour de ogewn.

with Matt
TGreen 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rosie Henstock 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/14 AltLd
rbharries 28/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with neils EW, josie McG
Hidden 26/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
peakcaver ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 AltLd

Thought I was off in the vice!

with neils EW, josie McG
robjdc 13/Oct/13 -

Very wet and slippery conditions - scrambled up gulley to top of chimney (p3). Wessex lead P4. Vertcial vice was very difficult to lead but completed with assistance from a top rope from Wessex (who bypassed). Henry lead final pitch. Two pairs moved together up scramble to summit.

with Henry G, Judders, Wessex
Hidden 13/Oct/13 AltLd
robjdc 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Quite wet and started late - Judders reached top of pitch 4, but due to time and conditions abseiled off with Wessex (leaving rope!)

with Judders
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd dnf
lithos 15/Jul/13 AltLd

in 3 pitches, Tony got the squeeze which is desperate !!

with tony w
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
SteveM 08/Sep/12 Solo
Hidden 14/Apr/12 AltLd
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Pichol 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Retreated after first pitch.

with Nick Judkins, robjdc
robjdc 30/Jul/11 Lead
with Pichol
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
tom.e 17/Apr/11 Solo O/S
smallerrich 10/Apr/11 Solo O/S

The vice isnt as tight as people make it out to be... But then I'm pretty small

with Bertie, Dan R
samrad 02/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with james G
spadge 03/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Freezing cold weather made it hard going. Was well worth it though.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
danimal88 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

HVW. many things that are wet are good

with Chris Holden
Harri777 ?/Aug/10 AltLd

A must for fans of the traditional. Awesome.

with Chiz
Mikelo 05/Jun/10 AltLd
with adam
adam06 05/Jun/10 AltLd

very good top pitch. recon the crux is about 4b tho

demarcation86 ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Liam FLeming 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

wet windy

with karen dalzell
Storm Hunter ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
James Oakes ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Phil Oakes, Andy Dickerson, Josh Dickerson, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
Cardi 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

What fun! In big boots and rucksacks. Chasm pitch was a bit cheeky, but nothing compared to the Vertical Vice! One word - desperate! Had to remove rucksack and suspend from 16ft sling on a couple of occasions on that pitch. I've done HVS's with easier cruxes!

with Ollie R
Hidden 14/Jun/08 AltLd
Simon Hodgson 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Alex Thompson 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

(Shoe-less) Pitch to link Alpha & Lots Wife. Abseiled down chasm and top pitches as decent.

with Jane Terry
Adam Booth 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
with Roel, Tim Evans, Ed Booth, Ed Booth, Roel, Tim Evans
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
PanzerHanzler 09/Oct/07 AltLd

Led pitches 3, 5 and 7 - Hardest VD I've led anything on. The vertical vice's jaws want to hang on to any poor sod entering them! The finishing Y shaped crack(s) seemed a bit stiff for a VD as well. The climb is total quality and certainly worth the hike in.

with David Rafe
Calder 25/Aug/07 AltLd dnf

Ste coudn't get up the vertical vice before the sun went down(!), so we bailed over the fallen chockstone.

with Ste
stemill 25/Aug/07 AltLd dnf
with Graham
John HW 10/Aug/07 AltLd

A Great fun climb in the wet. Rhys enjoyed the subterranean exit

with Rhys HW, Cath
Hidden 10/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
ebastock 10/Jun/07 2nd

A great day out with Bill, Dennis and Clive

with John Beddard
bendurance ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led both chimney pitches. Not very easy in the wet - more like HS than Vdiff

with JC
Keith Jones 04/May/07 AltLd
with ali, David
tobydunford 13/Apr/07 Solo O/S
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Diggler ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
wirralclimber1984 01/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
with jerry and rich
matt0759 01/Dec/06 AltLd
with Kevin Charleston & Jerry Lewis
Mike Roach ?/Aug/06 2nd dog
with Laurence Hicks
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Tim W 12/Nov/05 AltLd O/S

Big boots, in the wet

with Paddy
KeithW 03/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

Led 2 & 4. Mike had a hold break off in chimney.

with Mike Nuttall
Hidden 17/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/05 Lead
Darragh ??/2005 -

Perfect route for a wet day. Full on rebirth struggle!

with Mark
Hidden 24/May/04 Lead
Little B 28/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Jane
Tom M Williams ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Andy Davies
Hidden 16/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
jmr 23/Jul/00 AltLd
with Paul Greenhow
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ?/Sep/98 Lead

Interesting? move through the vice.

with Kate Wheatcroft, Rachel Yeates
sixties 14/May/98 AltLd
with hrd
Hidden 26/Jul/95 AltLd
Iain Thow 06/May/95 Solo
stokienomad 12/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/93 AltLd
Rob Davies ?/Sep/93 Solo
Hidden 21/Jul/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/91 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Jun/90 AltLd
with Scooter Beresford
Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Raggar ??/1990 AltLd
with Andy J
Hidden ??/1987 -
Ian Archer 01/Apr/86 Lead
with Neil Watson
wynaptomos ?/Jun/85 Solo
Simon2005 ?/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Jude
mikej 23/Oct/82 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, Hidden, SenzuBean, ial, Hidden, Hidden, simonjkinsella, Hidden, humptydumpty, 67hours, Hidden, TheaSmea, Hidden, Matadoors, andrewmcleod, Hidden, DanChad, alicee, chris ginge, CM1992, Hidden, Hidden, Tom Hecht, fleapitfan, tim123487, Hidden, franny, snakes77, tomshooter, Hidden, davidhw, Hidden, Hidden, Jord64@msn.com
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set