Chasm Route** VD
[Chasm Route, 3 kb]85m.

Rockfax Description
The character building rifts on the right can be climbed in as many as six short pitches. Start 3m right of the large 'Capstan' block.
1) 30m. Climb the rib and crack as for Lot's Wife then move right into the base of the mighty rift below the overhangs.
2) 18m. Up the chasm until an exit right is possible. Head left over blocks back to the gully.
3) 15m. A crack on the left leads to flakes. Go behind these then back right into the gully.
4) 20m. Do battle with the jaws of the Vertical Vice then finish up the corner above.
4a) 25m. If the Vertical Vice shuts you down a devious escape can be made. Move up into the slot on the left. Tunnel in along the passage to where the chasm turns a corner. Head round this and chimney up the easier slot to be reborn on the top of the crag. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch

1.91e+03 Jan/1991

Ticklists: A grand easy welsh day out, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

Photo: Chasm Route © David Jones
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Luke Davies - Solo - 19/Sep/15

Hidden - 13/Aug/15

The Vice is brutal - a classic tussle - with a rucksack on. Rach breezed the Vice. Quality
jimorothy - AltLd - 12/Jun/15 with Rachel Crolla

In big boots
PeteMc - AltLd - 23/May/15 with Tom French

tom0french - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Pete McNamee

Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/15

Pouring rain and big boots.. The exit to the vice is memorable!
Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/14 with Jed Jackson, Rob Steer

outdoorrob999 - 2nd - 17/Oct/14 with Samuel Wainwright

Gorgeous day did some diff on tryfan before this did both the glyders afterwards.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/14 with Alex(Blue peris)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

Climbing together 3rd climb on tour de ogewn.
spragglerocks - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Matt

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Rosie Henstock

Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Tom Green

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/14

rbharries - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/14 with neils EW, josie McG

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/14

Hidden - 30/Mar/14

Nick Biven - 2014

peakcaver - 2014

Si - 2014

Thought I was off in the vice!
rbharries - AltLd - 2014 with neils EW, josie McG

Very wet and slippery conditions - scrambled up gulley to top of chimney (p3). Wessex lead P4. Vertcial vice was very difficult to lead but completed with assistance from a top rope from Wessex (who bypassed). Henry lead final pitch. Two pairs moved together up scramble to summit.
robjdc - 13/Oct/13 with Henry G, Judders, Wessex

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Oct/13

Quite wet and started late - Judders reached top of pitch 4, but due to time and conditions abseiled off with Wessex (leaving rope!)
robjdc - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Judders

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Oct/13

in 3 pitches, Tony got the squeeze which is desperate !!
lithos - AltLd - 15/Jul/13 with tony w

Hidden - Lead - 2013

SteveM - Solo - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/12

matt perks - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Oct/11

Retreated after first pitch.
Pichol - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Nick Judkins, robjdc

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/11

tom.e - Solo O/S - 17/Apr/11

The vice isnt as tight as people make it out to be... But then I'm pretty small
smallerrich - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Bertie, Dan R

samrad - Solo O/S - 02/Apr/11 with james G

Freezing cold weather made it hard going. Was well worth it though.
spadge - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/10

HVW. many things that are wet are good
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Chris Holden

A must for fans of the traditional. Awesome.
Harri777 - AltLd - Aug/10 with Chiz

Mikelo - AltLd - 05/Jun/10 with adam

very good top pitch. recon the crux is about 4b tho
adam06 - AltLd - 05/Jun/10 with mike weaver

demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Paul

wet windy
Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with karen dalzell

Storm Hunter - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 31/May/09

Hidden - AltLd - May/09

James Oakes - AltLd O/S - Feb/09 with Phil Oakes, Andy Dickerson, Josh Dickerson, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence

What fun! In big boots and rucksacks. Chasm pitch was a bit cheeky, but nothing compared to the Vertical Vice! One word - desperate! Had to remove rucksack and suspend from 16ft sling on a couple of occasions on that pitch. I've done HVS's with easier cruxes!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Ollie R

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jun/08

Simon Hodgson - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Lizzie Pinard

(Shoe-less) Pitch to link Alpha & Lots Wife. Abseiled down chasm and top pitches as decent.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Jane Terry

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/08 with Ed Booth, Roel, Tim Evans

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Led pitches 3, 5 and 7 - Hardest VD I've led anything on. The vertical vice's jaws want to hang on to any poor sod entering them! The finishing Y shaped crack(s) seemed a bit stiff for a VD as well. The climb is total quality and certainly worth the hike in.
PanzerHanzler - AltLd - 09/Oct/07 with David Rafe

Ste coudn't get up the vertical vice before the sun went down(!), so we bailed over the fallen chockstone.
Calder - AltLd dnf - 25/Aug/07 with Ste

stemill - AltLd dnf - 25/Aug/07 with Graham

A Great fun climb in the wet. Rhys enjoyed the subterranean exit
John HW - AltLd - 10/Aug/07 with Rhys HW, Cath

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/07

A great day out with Bill, Dennis and Clive
ebastock - 2nd - 10/Jun/07 with John Beddard

Led both chimney pitches. Not very easy in the wet - more like HS than Vdiff
bendurance - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with JC

Keith Jones - AltLd - 04/May/07 with ali, David

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/07

fran04 - AltLd - 2007

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 2007

Dom Whillans - 2007

wirralclimber1984 - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/06 with jerry and rich

matt0759 - AltLd - 01/Dec/06 with Kevin Charleston & Jerry Lewis

Mike Roach - 2nd dog - Aug/06 with Laurence Hicks

mikelaing - 2006

Big boots, in the wet
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/05 with Paddy

Led 2 & 4. Mike had a hold break off in chimney.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/05 with Mike Nuttall

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/05

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/05

Perfect route for a wet day. Full on rebirth struggle!
Darragh - 2005 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/04

Little B - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/03 with Jane

Tom M Williams - 2nd O/S - Jul/03 with Andy Davies

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/01

jmr - AltLd - 23/Jul/00 with Paul Greenhow

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2000

Interesting? move through the vice.
BenTiffin - Lead - Sep/98 with Kate Wheatcroft, Rachel Yeates

sixties - AltLd - 14/May/98 with hrd

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/95

Iain Thow - Solo - 06/May/95

stokienomad - Lead - 12/Jun/94

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/93

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/92

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/91

nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/90 with Scooter Beresford

Ched - Lead O/S - 1990 with Glyn

Raggar - AltLd - 1990 with Andy J

Hidden - 1987

Ian Archer - Lead - 01/Apr/86 with Neil Watson

wynaptomos - Solo - Jun/85

Simon2005 - Lead O/S - Apr/85 with Jude

mikej - AltLd - 23/Oct/82 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, SenzuBean, ial, simonjkinsella, humptydumpty, 67hours, TheaSmea, Matadoors, andrewmcleod, DanChad, alicee, chris ginge, CM1992, Tom Hecht, fleapitfan, tim123487, franny, snakes77, tomshooter, davidhw,

Total votes cast 35
hard HVD1 of 17
HVD2 of 17
easy HVD6 of 17
hard VD1 of 17
VD7 of 17
easy VD0 of 17
hard HD0 of 17
HD0 of 17
easy HD0 of 17
3 Stars12 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star3 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S