Visions of Johanna** E1 5b
[The patented arseflop mantel manoeuvre, 7 kb]

Rockfax Description
A much-talked-about first pitch is followed by easier but still worthwhile climbing. E1 if you don't fall off! Start just to the left of the right edge of the wall.
1) 5b, 23m. Climb to below a small overhang and make a couple of committing moves up to, and then past it on the right (small wires). Continue directly up the lovely wall to a belay on a good ledge next to a huge flake.
2) 5a, 35m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left. Move leftwards once again up a slab to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney exiting onto easy ground, the top is not far above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: The patented arseflop mantel manoeuvre © Justin T
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 185 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/15 with AlexD

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Ed

Finished up the LBJ flakes instead of the chimney/slot.
elliptic - AltLd - 18/Jul/15 with Pete M.

JulesV - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/15 with Shauna

Looks a lot blanker from the bottom, and I'd been told it was a gearless nightmare- surprisingly nice climbing with well spaced gear in fact.
JoeCoxson - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Stuart Cossey

Stu.Cossey - 2nd - 27/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15

Lead P2. Ballsy first pitch by jonny with an awesome set of moves towards the start. Top pitch was good too, nice balancy rock over!
partz - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Johnny Webb

Led pitch 1 - really cool balancy and committing moves. Work up the nerve and go for it!
JonnyW - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Matt Everett

omaskrey - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/15 with Ed Walker

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/15

Will lead first pitch, then I lead through on Little Brown Jug
clairejane - 2nd - Jun/15 with will

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 25/May/15 with Amanda, Alan

Billg - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/May/15

Lead the first pitch. Thankful I took loads of micro nuts and cams. Second pitch was so different to the first. Large holds but nice and exposed.
richardashe - AltLd O/S - 22/May/15

Richard led the 5b pitch one. I got confused at belay and we finished on little brown jug.
cheeky - 22/May/15 with Richard Ashe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/15

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 22/May/15 with Chris Andrews

Stu got the first I got the last.
lost.arrow - AltLd - 03/May/15 with Stu Sherwood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Jake Thompsett, Adam

Martin started leading. I lead the 2nd pitch.
Katsmiff - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with Martin Bagshaw

Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with Catherine Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Bob Peters - 2nd - 2015

Misha - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Eszter

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Micheal Dobinson

I led both pitches, awesome moves up the start of the route
dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Joe Doherty

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/14

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Gareth Greeves

Hmmm seems like I disagree with the majority... Thought it was hard at E1 more like E2 (surely "E1 if you don't fall off" just means it's harder/more serious than E1...) Got quite tired hanging around trying to fiddle in half a dozen IMPs for the start - both calves and arms were feeling it by the end, and the whole route felt a lot harder than the neighbouring Thin Wall Special.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Joe Jones

Ky Leads all pitches.
JRJones - 2nd - 21/Jun/14

Fell off low down. Gear seems shit, maybe there's better placements above.
BigTone - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/14

led first pitch which seemed quite hard to me, fab top pitch as well which is much better than it looks
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 28/May/14 with FatRob

Hinchrn - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Johny Logan

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/14

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Kayleigh Tremaine

1st pitch only
Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Stu Mackenzie, Martin Fowler

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/14

jcw - 2014

Reasonably well protected by RPs. Soft but not a good first E1.
Tubs - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/13 with Dave M

Justin T - Lead - 31/Aug/13 with Nancy

nice bold moves at the bottom but the holds are there
dready - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/13

Trobbo - 2nd - 12/Aug/13 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/13

ian d f - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Bob, Norman

Really tired after a week being harassed by the kids. Didn't trust any of the gear below the overhang, good job the climbing felt easy.
leon - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Amanda Skeldon

In a memorably gusty force 5...
Tim M - Lead O/S - 24/May/13 with Emma

climbergg - AltLd - 24/May/13 with cheesesarnie

oakapple - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Simon Alden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13 with Craig Harwood

Led p1. Cold fingers
cem - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - AltLd - 19/Feb/13 with Davebryant

Nick Biven - 2013

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12 with matt jackson

jacksonm1 - 2nd - 23/Nov/12

First pitch only, as it started to rain and was getting dark. Felt necky at the grade until you got to the moves - hard to read from below but alright in the end. Gear and holds are all there if you look well. Really enjoyable!
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ben Corbey

Cool steady climb. Benchmark.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Paul Roberts

lead P1 finished up Little Brown Jug
Spearos - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Riggo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

Robin Woodward - Lead - Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/12

mjeffery - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Rob

Led p1
MD - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Jo

Mike led first pitch with scary early moves.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Mike D

tgeh - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Howie

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/12

Curly Rich - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with GMC JohnP

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12

burto - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with malc

led P1
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with David Proctor

Ros lead pitch 1, myself pitch 2. Felt committing on the slabby traverse and the chimney offered good well protected exposure.
dprctr - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Roslyn McKendry

sumee lead pitch 1, me pitch 2
3 Names - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Sumee Holloway

RichardN - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/12

Top moves are a lot friendlier than they looked from below :D reckon it'd make a nice alternative finish to Little brown jug...
Alan100 - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with RichardN, Fat Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Sarah

Pete Graham - AltLd - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

First pitch was fairly sustained through the crux section, brilliant climbing. Made a mess of the chimney at the end of the second pitch.
arandall - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/12 with arandall

Tophe - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/12

Hidden - 11/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/11

Notgnarly led P1, I led P2, which seems slightly contrived. It's all about P1 though, isn't it.
jelaby - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with notgnarly

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 20/Aug/11 with Jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

fantastic first pitch although I climbed it terribly. (hot conditions - you know!) finished up the last pitch of Little brown jug.. Visionary jugs perhaps?
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Phill Butler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/11

a13x - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Jordan Phethean

pudding - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with alex peace

gowla - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with will kumar

Johnny led, did it in one pitch (!) I pulled on a piece of gear on one of the crux moves near the bottom.
royal - 2nd - 31/May/11

p1 only,nice route,easy compared to thin wall special
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with wain

Justin T - 2nd - 19/Mar/11

Interesting start which was made a little less scary with Grahams RP's.
nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Graham Hadaway

I did the easier last pitch.
redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with nick stevens

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/10

Led p1
Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Helen Pitt

Pitch 1
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10

adamscottthomas - Lead β - 27/Jun/10 with Kafoozalem

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - 15/Apr/10

JerryD - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

williamsd79 - 2010

Did first pitch (sat down alot!), then finished with last two pitches of little brown jug
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 20/Dec/09 with bobby gilbert

first (crux) pitch only
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Katherine Sydney

low in the grade protection is adequate, good route
joese7en - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/09

Finished up little brown jug P2, made a better line i thought
Don Jebus - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Joe Gomery

I did 1st pitch
nickdonohue - Lead - Oct/09 with Andy March

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09

Excellent route. Pete did the harder first pitch.
rockferret - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Pete

P1, combined with top pitch of Thin Wall Special.
Dan_Carroll - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/09 with Beckholland

First pitch. Mark led.
Oli - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with John Nuttall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09

I lead P1, Doug, P2 (he has climbed it before).
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Doug S

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Alice

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with scott titt

Led P1.
cmsg - 02/May/09 with Llewelyn Thomas

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches
lrandall - AltLd O/S - Apr/09 with Matt ?

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/08

HughM - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with David Barlow

r@bag - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Dom Sellars

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Laurence Davis

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Rebecca Holland

Beck Holland - 2nd rpt - 27/Aug/07 with Dan_Carroll

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/07

Ian Jones - 2007

Tom Vivian - 2nd - 31/Jul/06

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 09/Jul/06 with Nic Dill

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06 with Chris Reid

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 01/May/06 with Sinbad

leadmat - Lead - 2006

wojt - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/05

ewen - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/05

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 08/Jul/05

Andy2 - 2005

feilx - Lead O/S - 2005 with keith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/04

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/03

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03

cem - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/03 with Sally Dipple

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/03

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 25/May/03 with Norman Wright

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2003 with Emily

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Nov/02

andy_pemberton - AltLd - Dec/01 with Steve Gooberman Hill, Katharine Pemberton

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/01

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/00

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 22/May/00 with Claire Graham

cem - 2nd - 21/Apr/00 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Jan/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

chris sm - Lead O/S - 23/May/98 with Jon Pearson

michael burrows - 2nd - 30/Jul/97 with steve swygart

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/96 with David Trelawney-Ross

Mick King - Lead - 09/Apr/93 with John Hudson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/92

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/91

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/85

keefe - 30/Aug/84

malc - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/84

Mike Owen - Solo rpt - 09/Aug/80

Hidden - 1980

Mike Owen - 22/Jul/79 with Elaine Watson

Simon cook - 1977

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 22/Jun/75 with Ian Duckworth

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lumbering Oaf, clubmanpete, Dilwat, tgeh, mattmurphy, BWoodward

Total votes cast 99
hard E20 of 34
E20 of 34
easy E22 of 34
hard E14 of 34
E127 of 34
easy E11 of 34
hard HVS0 of 34
HVS0 of 34
easy HVS0 of 34
hard 5c0 of 35
5c0 of 35
easy 5c0 of 35
hard 5b2 of 35
5b29 of 35
easy 5b4 of 35
hard 5a0 of 35
5a0 of 35
easy 5a0 of 35
3 Stars2 of 30
2 Stars15 of 30
1 Star13 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat