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Visions of Johanna* E1 5b

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[The patented arseflop mantel manoeuvre, 7 kb]A much-talked-about first pitch is followed by easier but still worthwhile climbing. E1 if you don't fall off! Start just to the left of the right edge of the wall.. 1) 5b, 23m. Climb to below a small overhang and make a couple of committing moves up to, and then past it on the right (small wires). Continue directly up the lovely wall to a belay on a good ledge next to a huge flake.. 2) 5a, 35m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left. Move leftwards once again up a slab to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney exiting onto easy ground, the top is not far above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: The patented arseflop mantel manoeuvre © quadmyre
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 120 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

oakapple - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Led p1. Cold fingers
cem - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Sam Hann

Hidden - 2013

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12 with matt jackson

jacksonm1 - 2nd - 23/Nov/12

First pitch only, as it started to rain and was getting dark. Felt necky at the grade until you got to the moves - hard to read from below but alright in the end. Gear and holds are all there if you look well. Really enjoyable!
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ben Corbey

Cool steady climb. Benchmark.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Paul Roberts

lead P1 finished up Little Brown Jug
Spearos - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Riggo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Mike led first pitch with scary early moves.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Mike D

tgeh - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Howie

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/12

Curly Rich - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with GMC JohnP

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12

burto - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with malc

led P1
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with David Proctor

Ros lead pitch 1, myself pitch 2. Felt committing on the slabby traverse and the chimney offered good well protected exposure.
dprctr - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Roslyn McKendry

sumee lead pitch 1, me pitch 2
Vince McNally - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Sumee Holloway

RichardN - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/12

Top moves are a lot friendlier than they looked from below :D reckon it'd make a nice alternative finish to Little brown jug...
Alan100 - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with RichardN, Fat Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with sarah

Pete Graham - AltLd - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

First pitch was fairly sustained through the crux section, brilliant climbing. Made a mess of the chimney at the end of the second pitch.
arandall - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/12 with arandall

Tophe - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/12

Hidden - 11/Feb/12

wojtt - Solo O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/11

Notgnarly led P1, I led P2, which seems slightly contrived. It's all about P1 though, isn't it.
jelaby - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with notgnarly

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 20/Aug/11 with Jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

fantastic first pitch although I climbed it terribly. (hot conditions - you know!) finished up the last pitch of Little brown jug.. Visionary jugs perhaps?
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Phill Butler

Lead top pitch.
iceaxejuggler - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Max A

a13x - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Jordan Phethean

pudding - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with alex peace

gowla - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with will kumar

Johnny led, did it in one pitch (!) I pulled on a piece of gear on one of the crux moves near the bottom.
royal - 2nd - 31/May/11

p1 only,nice route,easy compared to thin wall special
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with wain

quadmyre - 2nd - 19/Mar/11

Interesting start which was made a little less scary with Grahams RP's.
nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Graham Hadaway

I did the easier last pitch.
redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with nick stevens

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10

Pitch 1
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10

Barely started. Could not commit to move above the tiny rp sitting in the tiny slot not far off the start. This is a route that I wil have to complete one day.
leon - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/10 with Amanda Skeldon

adamscottthomas - Lead β - 27/Jun/10 with Pete Saunders

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - 15/Apr/10

JerryD - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

williamsd79 - 2010

Did first pitch (sat down alot!), then finished with last two pitches of little brown jug
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 20/Dec/09 with bobby gilbert

first (crux) pitch only
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Katherine Sydney

low in the grade protection is adequate, good route
joese7en - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/09

Finished up little brown jug P2, made a better line i thought
Don Jebus - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Joe Gomery

Super route - the top pitch is very good too and worth 5a.
Kafoozalem - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Martin Butler

Excellent route. Pete did the harder first pitch.
rockferret - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Pete

P1, combined with top pitch of Thin Wall Special.
Dan_Carroll - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/09 with Beckholland

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09

I lead P1, Doug, P2 (he has climbed it before).
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Doug S

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Alice

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with scott titt

Led P1.
cmsg - 02/May/09 with Llewelyn Thomas

Lead 2nd and 3rd pitches
lrandall - AltLd O/S - Apr/09 with Matt ?

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/08

HughM - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with David Barlow

r@bag - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Dom Sellars

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Laurence Davis

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Rebecca Holland

Beckholland - 2nd rpt - 27/Aug/07 with Dan_Carroll

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/07

Ian Jones - 2007

Tom Vivian - 2nd - 31/Jul/06

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 09/Jul/06 with Nic Dill

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06 with Chris Reid

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 01/May/06 with Sinbad

leadmat - Lead - 2006

wojt - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/05

ewen - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/05

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 08/Jul/05

Andy2 - 2005

feilx - Lead O/S - 2005 with keith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/03

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03

cem - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/03 with Sally Dipple

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/03

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2003 with Emily

Samuel1989 - 2nd - 17/Nov/02 with Luke

andy_pemberton - AltLd - Dec/01 with Steve Gooberman Hill, Katharine Pemberton

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/01

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 22/May/00 with Claire Graham

cem - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/00 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Jan/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

chris sm - Lead O/S - 23/May/98 with Jon Pearson

michael burrows - 2nd - 30/Jul/97 with steve swygart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/92

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/91

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/85

keefe - 30/Aug/84

malc - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/84

Mike Owen - 22/Jul/79 with Elaine Watson

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 22/Jun/75 with Ian Duckworth

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
tgeh, Hidden, mattmurphy, BWoodward, leon

Voting
Total votes cast 66
hard E20 of 22
E20 of 22
easy E20 of 22
hard E11 of 22
E120 of 22
easy E11 of 22
hard HVS0 of 22
HVS0 of 22
easy HVS0 of 22
hard 5c0 of 23
5c0 of 23
easy 5c0 of 23
hard 5b1 of 23
5b21 of 23
easy 5b1 of 23
hard 5a0 of 23
5a0 of 23
easy 5a0 of 23
3 Stars1 of 21
2 Stars9 of 21
1 Star11 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 120 (0.8%)
Lead43 of 120 (35.8%)
Followed19 of 120 (15.8%)
Alt Leads46 of 120 (38.3%)
Unknown11 of 120 (9.2%)

'Climbed'39 of 120 (32.5%)
clean O/S71 of 120 (59.2%)
clean β1 of 120 (0.8%)
clean rpt5 of 120 (4.2%)
dogged3 of 120 (2.5%)
dnf1 of 120 (0.8%)