Kirkus's Route*** VS 5a
[Colin on the lower section of pitch 2, 3 kb]85m.

Rockfax Description
The fine central offwidth provides a mighty struggle on an unsung Welsh gem.
1) 4a, 25m. 5m left of the lowest point of the buttress is a chimney. Follow this past a small ledge to gain a slabby groove on the right. Climb this and move left to belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the offwidth-crack which looms above and fight up it using the chockstones for protection and holds - a big cam might be useful but is a little unsporting. Belay at the top of the crack.
3) 4a, 25m. Move right to the rib and climb this until a stride left gains a square-cut groove. Follow this to a belay on easier ground. Scramble off. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch - 1.3c 2.5a 3.3c 4.Scramble

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, Classic Chimney - England and Wales.

Photo: Colin on the lower section of pitch 2 © A Mountain Journey
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 81 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Hidden - 06/Sep/15

Lead crux pitch, brilliant North Wales esoterica!
JonnySchofield - AltLd - 10/Jun/15

Pesda potato - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15

Hidden - 06/Jun/15

brian watson - AltLd - 06/Jun/15 with scott titt

tim_mcd - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Manchi

Martin1973 - 2nd - 05/Aug/14 with mikelaing

mikelaing - Lead - Aug/14 with Martin Corfield

Brilliant day out. Esoteric and all the better for it. No one else on the crag, 2 others in the cwm, they were swimming in the Llyn
A Mountain Journey - Lead - 18/Jun/14 with Colin

ads - AltLd - 15/Jun/14 with Julie

Andrew Lester - AltLd - 05/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14

Led second pitch in a gale. The highlight of the day was running down to the car.
MYox - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14 with Jon, Maia

Led P1 & 3
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Alan Blanchflower

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Led P2. Not as thrutchy as you might think. Lovely little secluded crag.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Julian Prieto

tlmarjot - AltLd - 18/Apr/14 with Ben Anderson

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Led crux pitch
Will Sheaff - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/13 with Amy Illingworth

Thoroughly enjoyable P2 a bit of a test, led P3 deserves a 5a, a cracking route on superb rock with fantastic friction. Walk in over an hour:(
Deltona - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Partner led pitch one, and pitch two up to the crack (by mistake - she hadn't had enough climbing!). Better to belay on large grass ledge really! Off-width is fairly straight-forward, though do take some very bigs cams if you have them, and be prepared to thread a narrow chock-stone with a sling, which can be easily had by throwing a carabiner over it, whilst attached to the sling, and catching it on the bottom! Rest of climb is lovely, though gear can be a bit spaced!
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Anyes Varenne

led P1 and bit of P2 up to ledge before crack Kim led rest of P2 led P3 scramble P4 superbe sunny day!
anyes varenne - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with kim mulji

PAJames - 2013

PAJames - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

The off width crack is hard - big cams would help
JasonV - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Alun

With Chris Hughes. Tough crack if no big friend available.
martin c - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/12

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with K.Bromfield

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12

Led crux P2 which is much less intimidating than it looks from below, but probably warrants 5a
lcullum7 - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Sarah Acheson, Rich Jones

SarahA - AltLd - 26/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/11

seb m-c - 2nd - 14/Jul/11 with Andy Hall

Ian pitches 1 and 3. Me pitch 2. What a great route and location, nobody else around and no polish on avery busy weekend in Snowdonia. The off width crack was great fun and I set up a belay to watch my 2nd struggle but he cruised up it. Shame as I was wanting a laugh! Pity about all the crampon scratchs on the crag.
JWB - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

Ashley Hold - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/11 with Torquil Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

lead easy pitches
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Colin Harvey

heavyyy bag
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with AO

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Clive

Clivest - 2nd - 08/Sep/10 with Ewan Russell

Hidden - 21/Aug/10

great venue - challenging route - once again mr kirkus proves his quality
bob johnson - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Rich Ball

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Kris

Worth the long walk in for a classic jamming pitch. Led Ps 2 & 4.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ralph

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Jess Christley

Jess Christley - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Stuart Inchley

Led P2, a great little route with no polish.
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Jill Reinsch

sthame - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Oliver Porter

good route on a remote crag, was a good few days
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Dome Boi

Jillybean - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Martyn

didnt think it was as good as people are saying. 2nd pitch is 2 star, but the rest is not worth any. So felt more like 1 star overall and the walk in was defo more than an hour as it took us an hour to walk back down!
adam06 - AltLd - 17/May/10 with chris carr

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

Led P2 (offwidth)
theotherpetehill - AltLd - 15/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 - AltLd - 24/May/09 with jamesca

I did p2, it was great fun....not sure about the 5a though felt soft touch??
SGD - AltLd - 18/Apr/09 with Andy T WMC

MarkFoster - 2009

The crack was surprisingly technical - no mad thructhing required. Real (hidden) gem of a climb.
PanzerHanzler - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Matt

The wide corner crack that makes up the second pitch is a toughy. No finesse, no technique, just jam yourself in there and start grunting upwards. The chokestone at mid height is reachable, despite how it appears.
Karlos - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Daniela, Ben

Justin T - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Wifey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/07

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Paul

Hidden - Lead - 2007

maria85 - AltLd - 16/Jul/06 with Jon

intersection996 - Lead - 16/Apr/06 with Migi

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/04 with FayeG

iskra2000 - AltLd - 09/Aug/97 with John Dale

Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/95

nigehughes - Lead - Nov/89 with Chris Hall

mikej - Lead - 19/Jul/83 with Tony Waite

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Craigyboy13, Moonwolf, richardw87, druss, poeter210, danny269, Andrew will wilson, ashsleight, highclimber, Katex, bigmrp, hepitt, texuspete, twright180

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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat