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Kirkus's Route** VS 5a

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[Colin on the lower section of pitch 2, 3 kb]85m. The fine central offwidth provides a mighty struggle on an unsung Welsh gem 1) 4a, 25m. 5m left of the lowest point of the buttress is a chimney. Follow this past a small ledge to gain a slabby groove on the right. Climb this and move left to belay on a grassy ledge 2) 5a, 20m. Gain the offwidth-crack which looms above and fight up it using the chockstones for protection and holds, a big cam might be useful but is a little unsporting. Belay at the top of the crack 3) 4a, 25m. Move right to the rib and climb this until a stride left gains a square cut groove. Follow this to a belay on easier ground 4) 15m. Scramble off. © ROCKFAX
4 Pitch - 1.3c 2.5a 3.3c 4.Scramble
1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes.

Photo: Colin on the lower section of pitch 2 © A Mountain Journey
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Brilliant day out. Esoteric and all the better for it. No one else on the crag, 2 others in the cwm, they were swimming in the Llyn
A Mountain Journey - Lead - 18/Jun/14 with Colin

ads - AltLd - 15/Jun/14 with Julie

Andrew Lester - AltLd - 05/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14

Led second pitch in a gale. The highlight of the day was running down to the car.
MYox - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14 with Jon, Maia

Led P1 & 3
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Alan Blanchflower

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Led P2. Not as thrutchy as you might think. Lovely little secluded crag.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Julian Prieto

tlmarjot - AltLd - 18/Apr/14 with Ben Anderson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Led crux pitch
Will Sheaff - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/13 with Amy Illingworth

Thoroughly enjoyable P2 a bit of a test, led P3 deserves a 5a, a cracking route on superb rock with fantastic friction. Walk in over an hour:(
Deltona - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Partner led pitch one, and pitch two up to the crack (by mistake - she hadn't had enough climbing!). Better to belay on large grass ledge really! Off-width is fairly straight-forward, though do take some very bigs cams if you have them, and be prepared to thread a narrow chock-stone with a sling, which can be easily had by throwing a carabiner over it, whilst attached to the sling, and catching it on the bottom! Rest of climb is lovely, though gear can be a bit spaced!
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Anyes Varenne

led P1 and bit of P2 up to ledge before crack Kim led rest of P2 led P3 scramble P4 superbe sunny day!
anyes varenne - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with kim mulji

PAJames - 2013

PAJames - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

The off width crack is hard - big cams would help
JasonV - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Alun

With Chris Hughes. Tough crack if no big friend available.
martin c - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/12

P2
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with K.Bromfield

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12

Led crux P2 which is much less intimidating than it looks from below, but probably warrants 5a
lcullum7 - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Sarah Acheson, Rich Jones

SarahA - AltLd - 26/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/11

seb m-c - 2nd - 14/Jul/11 with Andy Hall

Ian pitches 1 and 3. Me pitch 2. What a great route and location, nobody else around and no polish on avery busy weekend in Snowdonia. The off width crack was great fun and I set up a belay to watch my 2nd struggle but he cruised up it. Shame as I was wanting a laugh! Pity about all the crampon scratchs on the crag.
JWB - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

Ashley Hold - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/11 with Torquil Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

lead easy pitches
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Colin Harvey

heavyyy bag
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with AO

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Clive

Clivest - 2nd - 08/Sep/10 with Ewan Russell

Hidden - 21/Aug/10

great venue - challenging route - once again mr kirkus proves his quality
bob johnson - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Rich Ball

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Kris

Worth the long walk in for a classic jamming pitch. Led Ps 2 & 4.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ralph

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Jess Christley

Jess Christley - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Stuart Inchley

Led P2, a great little route with no polish.
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Jill Reinsch

sthame - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Oliver Porter

good route on a remote crag, was a good few days
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Dome Boi

Jillybean - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Martyn

didnt think it was as good as people are saying. 2nd pitch is 2 star, but the rest is not worth any. So felt more like 1 star overall and the walk in was defo more than an hour as it took us an hour to walk back down!
adam06 - AltLd - 17/May/10 with chris carr

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

Led P2 (offwidth)
theotherpetehill - AltLd - 15/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09

whiting.jp - AltLd - 24/May/09 with jamesca

I did p2, it was great fun....not sure about the 5a though felt soft touch??
SGD - AltLd - 18/Apr/09 with Andy T WMC

MarkFoster - 2009

The crack was surprisingly technical - no mad thructhing required. Real (hidden) gem of a climb.
PanzerHanzler - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Matt

The wide corner crack that makes up the second pitch is a toughy. No finesse, no technique, just jam yourself in there and start grunting upwards. The chokestone at mid height is reachable, despite how it appears.
Karlos - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Daniela, Ben

Justin T - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Wifey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/07

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Paul

Hidden - Lead - 2007

maria85 - AltLd - 16/Jul/06 with Jon

intersection996 - Lead - 16/Apr/06 with Migi

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/04 with FayeG

iskra2000 - AltLd - 09/Aug/97 with John Dale

Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/95

nigehughes - Lead - Nov/89 with Chris Hall

mikej - Lead - 19/Jul/83 with Tony Waite

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/77

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Voting
Total votes cast 57
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard VS0 of 19
VS19 of 19
easy VS0 of 19
hard HS0 of 19
HS0 of 19
easy HS0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 19
5b0 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
hard 5a0 of 19
5a14 of 19
easy 5a4 of 19
hard 4c1 of 19
4c0 of 19
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3 Stars10 of 19
2 Stars7 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead11 of 71 (15.5%)
Followed3 of 71 (4.2%)
Alt Leads52 of 71 (73.2%)
Unknown5 of 71 (7.0%)

'Climbed'30 of 71 (42.3%)
clean O/S39 of 71 (54.9%)
clean rpt1 of 71 (1.4%)
dogged1 of 71 (1.4%)