Rockfax Description
The fine central offwidth provides a mighty struggle on an unsung Welsh gem.
1) 4a, 25m. 5m left of the lowest point of the buttress is a chimney. Follow this past a small ledge to gain a slabby groove on the right. Climb this and move left to belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the offwidth-crack which looms above and fight up it using the chockstones for protection and holds - a big cam might be useful but is a little unsporting. Belay at the top of the crack.
3) 4a, 25m. Move right to the rib and climb this until a stride left gains a square-cut groove. Follow this to a belay on easier ground. Scramble off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch - 1.3c 2.5a 3.3c 4.Scramble

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, Classic Chimney - England and Wales.

Tim Harper 28/May AltLd O/S
with Jack Poyner
willoates ??/2016 -

With Lawrence ages ago. Quite stiff VS

Hidden 06/Sep/15 -
Andrew Lester 10/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/15 AltLd
Pesda potato 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 -
brian watson 06/Jun/15 AltLd
tim_mcd 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Manchi
Martin1973 05/Aug/14 2nd
mikelaing ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Martin Corfield
A Mountain Journey 18/Jun/14 Lead

Brilliant day out. Esoteric and all the better for it. No one else on the crag, 2 others in the cwm, they were swimming in the Llyn

with Colin
ads 15/Jun/14 AltLd
with Julie
Andrew Lester 05/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
MYox 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch in a gale. The highlight of the day was running down to the car.

with Jon, Maia
jonhowson 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Maia
Julian Prieto 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3

Ben1983 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Not as thrutchy as you might think. Lovely little secluded crag.

tlmarjot 18/Apr/14 AltLd
with Ben Anderson
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Will Sheaff 07/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Led crux pitch

with Amy Illingworth
Deltona 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Thoroughly enjoyable P2 a bit of a test, led P3 deserves a 5a, a cracking route on superb rock with fantastic friction. Walk in over an hour:(

kim.mulji 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Partner led pitch one, and pitch two up to the crack (by mistake - she hadn't had enough climbing!). Better to belay on large grass ledge really! Off-width is fairly straight-forward, though do take some very bigs cams if you have them, and be prepared to thread a narrow chock-stone with a sling, which can be easily had by throwing a carabiner over it, whilst attached to the sling, and catching it on the bottom! Rest of climb is lovely, though gear can be a bit spaced!

anyes varenne 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

led P1 and bit of P2 up to ledge before crack Kim led rest of P2 led P3 scramble P4 superbe sunny day!

PAJames ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
JasonV 01/Sep/12 Lead

The off width crack is hard - big cams would help

with Alun
martin c 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

With Chris Hughes. Tough crack if no big friend available.

Hidden 10/Aug/12 Lead
Ollie B 29/May/12 AltLd O/S


with K.Bromfield
BenRyle 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led crux P2 which is much less intimidating than it looks from below, but probably warrants 5a

SarahA 26/May/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Lotte Stuer 24/Jul/11 AltLd

spicy second chimney pitch! Lead first and third pitch.

with Will
seb m-c 14/Jul/11 2nd
with Andy Hall
JWB 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Ian pitches 1 and 3. Me pitch 2. What a great route and location, nobody else around and no polish on avery busy weekend in Snowdonia. The off width crack was great fun and I set up a belay to watch my 2nd struggle but he cruised up it. Shame as I was wanting a laugh! Pity about all the crampon scratchs on the crag.

Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd
Ashley Hold 18/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead easy pitches

with Colin Harvey
The Green Giant 07/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

heavyyy bag

with Dan with the van
dan-8990 07/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with AO
Ewan Russell 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Clive
Clivest 08/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/10 -
bob johnson 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

great venue - challenging route - once again mr kirkus proves his quality

with Rich Ball
Roger Cruse 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Kris
Andy Clarke 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Worth the long walk in for a classic jamming pitch. Led Ps 2 & 4.

with Ralph
stuart34 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jess Christley
Jess Christley 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Stuart Inchley
Noodles 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2, a great little route with no polish.

sthame 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Bennykr 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

good route on a remote crag, was a good few days

Jillybean 31/May/10 AltLd
with Martyn
adam06 17/May/10 AltLd

didnt think it was as good as people are saying. 2nd pitch is 2 star, but the rest is not worth any. So felt more like 1 star overall and the walk in was defo more than an hour as it took us an hour to walk back down!

chrisallan 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 15/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P2 (offwidth)

Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
whiting.jp 24/May/09 AltLd
with jamesca
SGD 18/Apr/09 AltLd

I did p2, it was great fun....not sure about the 5a though felt soft touch??

with Andy T WMC
MarkFoster ??/2009 -
PanzerHanzler 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

The crack was surprisingly technical - no mad thructhing required. Real (hidden) gem of a climb.

with Matt
Karlos 05/May/08 Lead O/S

The wide corner crack that makes up the second pitch is a toughy. No finesse, no technique, just jam yourself in there and start grunting upwards. The chokestone at mid height is reachable, despite how it appears.

with Daniela, Ben
Justin T 12/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 19/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
bullwinkle 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
maria85 16/Jul/06 AltLd
with Jon
intersection996 16/Apr/06 Lead
with Migi
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
ruaidh 12/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with FayeG
iskra2000 09/Aug/97 AltLd
with John Dale
Rob Davies ?/Apr/97 AltLd

Now VS 5a, due to pig of a crack - Severe in Ron James!

Hidden 06/May/95 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Nov/89 Lead
with Chris Hall
mikej 19/Jul/83 Lead
with Tony Waite
Bob M ?/Dec/77 AltLd
with Mark Redman
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