48m, 2 pitches. Loose and serious but memorable. Climbs the crack system on the front of the buttress and the "alpine" ridge above. Large and medium cams useful.
1.) 27m (4b), climb the crack to a narrow ledge then the left edge to a smoother face above to the "forepeak". Continue to the large tottering pinnacle and belay.
2.) 21m, carefully traverse the spiky ridge and go up a slab to the top. Belays are well back in blocks.

C. Baron, P Littlejohn 06/Apr/1993

Babika 26/Sep AltLd O/S

Scrambled in at low tide from the Initiation Slabs north side. A short section of wading to get to the bottom of the route. Done in 3 pitches for ease. Pete led P1 which seemed VS4b to me but plenty of gear. Pete also led P2 the short, exposed and virtually unprotected arÍte to the start of the ridge. I led P3 - easy but awesome position and exposure. Fantastic fun!! 3 stars

with Kiwi Pete
MrJWilliams92 09/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
mcglenr25 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Fantastic location and much better than load of of the other overcrowded routes only a stones throw away. 1st pitch up the clean pillar face is ace on good holds with plenty of gear except for the final arÍte which is no harder than the crack and on good holds. The 2nd alpine style pitch isn't as bad as it looks though I did have to removed some quite large blocks. We abseiled into the zawn to the right down the loose face only an hour after low tide and I had to do some serious rock hopping and wading to get to the route with the 2nds almost having to swimming as the sea came in so fast, scary!!! Overall better than the 2 stars it gets in the CC guide. Climbing difficulties 4a as per guide but probably best be prepared for an adventure at the grade and higher objective danger on the 2nd pitch than most routes nearby. BEST ROUTE OF THE TRIP :)

with David Brown, Pete aka Dad
TheNorthernOne ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Mark Hedge
MartinN 06/May/01 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

alan moore ??/1995 -


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gobbledigook, teh_mark, ReubenS1990, rocktigger, Hidden, 67hours, Hidden, Ian Archer
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