Soloed up to the start of the main ice pitch and then got the ropes out. I lead from there and it is definitely in grade IV condition with super hard ice and fairly sustained at that. We had been planning on a mixed route so only had 6 ice screws which probably added to the feeling of difficulty knowing I only had a stubby between me and the belay. Mainly stuck to snow and ice after that and topped out onto Tower Ridge, great day to be up the hills!
Nath93 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/15
Bob.allan - 2nd - 21/Mar/15 with Jason Mitchell
spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with James Hoyes
Long route! Especially in traffic. Finishing in the dark made for a long trek down the tourist path. In excellent condition.
markfairbank - Lead β - 14/Feb/15 with Anne Gumbley
Anne Gumbley - 2nd - 14/Feb/15 with Mark Fairbank
P1 & P2 were excellent with good ice. Led P1. Skirted rightward up slope around P3 and traversed back on to route. Upper pitches also in reasonable nick. The route was not stepped out. Topped out, using the top pitch of Tower Ridge, at dusk.
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Rach Batt
Lead P2, 4, 6, top out. Pitches 1, 2, were good ice pitches, top end III. Pitches 3,4 were the snow slopes out right and back left since belayed wrong at P3 so missed an ice pitch. Looked harder anyway. Pitches 5,6 more good ice, again not easy at III. Good nut belay top P5, bomber thread top P6. Finished up tower ridge. Cold, low vis, didn't eat enough but otherwise highly recommended route, would do again.
Batt - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Matt Box
Also with Rach and Matt. Excellent conditions. A sustained route with up to five ice pitches (went round the third as it looked a bit thin). A long day out - Iíve climbed easier grade IVís. Had to have a rest day afterwards!
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Rachael S
petrch - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Maarten Youngman
davkeo - Solo O/S - 20/Jan/15
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Dec/14
More bad belays, fun and games when Ad's crampon broke.
LakesWinter - AltLd - 15/Apr/14 with AD
Bergschrund at start.
alan.rodger - AltLd - 07/Apr/14 with gerhard mors
morsg - AltLd - 07/Apr/14 with Alan Rodger
Lots of snow on the route, First pitch of Glovers Chimney was completely buried. Good belays throughout.
Robertgiddy - AltLd - 29/Mar/14
Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/13
luckyjim - AltLd - 10/Mar/13 with D Helm
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/13
Dougbart - AltLd - 10/Mar/13 with Iain
Went off route and missed the top section
Ben Sharp - Lead dnf - 28/Feb/13 with rick armitage
Fantastic, but long day out. Very icy conditions. Second ice pitch was a sustained 45m of steep ice,and felt much harder (IV,4) than the grade. Not helped by a lack of ice screws!. Then I think we traversed round much further to the right than we were supposed to before finding a way to the top. A proper mountaineering adventure!
JasonK - Lead - 23/Feb/13 with Alec Carr
Very steep Ice pitches for Grade III, good test of nerve on some bulletproof ice
jasoncash - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13 with Andy Cash
Solid Grade 4 bullet hard water ice.
markwarner - AltLd - Feb/13
Brucemacrosson - AltLd - Feb/13 with Ruth Love
MTBAnimal - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/13
Great climb definitely a IV in the conditions. All steep pitches were mainly ice, very little neve. Dodgy ice at bottom, better higher up for climbing but no so good for protecting.
jandyd05 - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12
Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/12
karinh - AltLd - 19/Feb/12 with Colin G
Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/12
One of the best routes I've ever done, even though I did nip around the start of the third icefall (it wasn't there...).
RedFox - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/12
Terrific route. Nice steep ice at start, but what I guess is the third "hard to get onto" ice pitch seemed to be nonexistent (vertical rock wall topped with icicles?) and previous footprints led up right and then traversed left to go "around the block".We had 6 ice screws and wish we'd had a couple more. Above the clouds in inversion conditions for last few pitches and summit.
timday - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12
Awesome. My first climb on the Ben. Best day on any mountain - yet! Good conditions little wind no precipitation. Topped out to see cloud inversion and sunset bueautiful. Fogbow at start showed the way up. We'll be back.
davidbird63 - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with David Adcock
ten4dave - Lead - 12/Feb/12 with David Bird
luckyjim - AltLd - 09/Feb/12 with m mcdermott
Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12
started first two pitches off to the left gutter
bob johnson - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Mike Pescod
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jan/12
Piers Harley - AltLd - 16/Jan/12 with Jeremy Windsor, Paul Winder
konacol - AltLd - 15/Jan/12
Hannah Evans - AltLd - 14/Jan/12 with Tony Sheperd
dan doran - Jan/12 with konacol
Crowley6969 - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11
Led P1, short and not so steep. Mark led P2, started easy, but got very steep right at the top, certainly harder than a III. Ice not so great, dinner plating off. Accidentally avoided P3 as Mark belayed too far off to the right, but then traversed back left on steep snow to get back on route. Mark led P4 up through upper buttress to belay just before the chimney. I led P5 for 60m, but then started moving together for the final snow slopes onto the summit. Great route, lots of ice, and a good alternative to Glovers if it gets too busy.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Mark B
Found myself half way up pitch 2 with 1 ice screw left and finding it hardgoing. Made a belay and Rich then led onto the snowslope and we did alt leads then to the top. 7 pitches. Great route.Hats off to the victorians who ascended most of this route in 1907 without any ice screws!!
chrissy - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with Rich
First route on the Ben
Bob1984 - 2nd - 11/Feb/11
Finished up Beam me up Scotty.
Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11
Hidden - 2011
Also known as Goodeves in my SMC guidebook.
An excellent route with 6 long pitches, all of excellent standard. We used 60m ropes and 2 of the pitches were at full rope length. Top end of the grade but well protected on the more difficult sections. Start of pitch 3 was the crux.
Conan - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Philippa Reader, Loz
wildrover220 - 2nd - 16/Mar/10 with Laurence Gill, John Trudgill, Pete Trudgill
Hidden - 2nd - 28/Mar/09
davefount - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Will Kelsall
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/09
morsy - AltLd - 22/Feb/09 with peter duggan
Simon K - 2nd - 01/Feb/09 with Mike Pescod + PR
Ross McGibbon - 2009
very hard for the grade on the ice pitches
dthomson - 12/Apr/08 with Mark Bannan
crowberry gully - 07/Apr/08 with Ross McGibbon
Completed the first pitch but backed off the second due to being short of ice screws. Shame, was in superb condition.
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 23/Mar/08 with SteveyM
Excellent ice conditions, but second ice fall requires more screws for a direct route.
SteveMyatt - 2nd dnf - 23/Mar/08 with Mark Fairbank
tim newton - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/08 with dave kenyon
Went off route after the second pitch and ended up on the slopes of Raeburn's Easy Route. Traversed back right onto Hale Bopp for one pitch then back onto The White Line to the summit. T'was a long long route...
My Gravity - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Simon S
Just Another Dave - Feb/08
traversed in from cascade
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2008
suess - AltLd - 31/Mar/07
Captain Solo - Solo - 25/Mar/07
graeme gatherer - 2000
Hidden - 1994
ste_d - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/92 with mik
mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/92 with Steven Delderfield
innes - 1990
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Mar/71