No description has been contributed for this climb.

M. Geddes and H. Gillespie 18/Mar/1971


ClimberDateStyle
pipmccarthy 09/Apr Lead

Epic day. Approached via Garradh gully. Route in good nick but gear very difficult to find due to several inches of new snow. Front points on left boot came off near top of second pitch and bolt lost. Down-climbed with back up of two screws then decided to continue route. Third pitch circumvented due to initial difficult step. Next two pitches got increasingly hairy due unconsolidated fresh snow, with little of anything solid underneath and sparse protection. Both of these two pitches looked to be a right hand variant of the original. Traversed to top of Tower ridge for final pitch in failing light. Topped out at 9.30pm! Got back to North Face carpark at 3am after getting inexplicably lost in 'black hole triangle' near Alt Muillin.

with duncan beard
AmyG 02/Apr AltLd O/S

soloed most of it alongside Brian and Robin

BrianShackleton 02/Apr AltLd

Pitched 3 pitches. Finished up a chimney gully on the left with a steep left facing corner exit for some interest at the top!

RClothier 02/Apr AltLd
with AmyG
masa-alpin 27/Mar Lead O/S

The first icefall (original start??) was fine, the second, brilliant if hard for the grade, the foot of the third icefall was thin and formed a bit of overlap (probably tech 5), so traversed to the right (P3), before coming back to the route proper (P4). P5 above was a quality, P6 (60m) stopped 5m short of the ridge, and P7 to finish Tower Ridge, which was probably II/III in this day's conditions. More like IV overall, and 3 stars if P3 was in. The ice conditions were excellent and the quality of the snow was better than I had expected as assessed with a snow-pit at the foot of the approach; the temperature stayed just below freezing all day without much wind, though went up above the freezing level when we toppd out at 14:30, 8 hrs after leaving the CIC hut. No footprint in No.3 or 4 Gullies, and we descended via Red Burn to CIC. The first proper ice climbing for both Michelle and Suzie.

with Suzie, Michelle A
Hidden 25/Mar Lead
Fiona Hughes 25/Mar 2nd
with SP
thedatastream 23/Mar Lead O/S

First two icefalls have fantastic ice. We didn't like the look of the top so traversed across to Raeburn's Easy Route to finish. Only had 5 screws, a couple more would have been nice as well as a 60m rope! Felt hard for a III, possibly IV at the moment? Large amount of ice came off Comb Gully Buttress around 12pm and onto the approach slopes.

with Jake G
Hidden 23/Mar 2nd
dizzyg 23/Mar AltLd
DHHZ 22/Mar AltLd
with Stephen
Stephen Barrass 22/Mar AltLd

Excellent route, the ice falls keep on coming.

with Dan
MrRiley 20/Mar AltLd O/S

Excellent route, plastic ice, bit of a sandbag. Pitches 1 and 2 good conditions, outflanked 3 which looked a bit thin and detached, a couple more pitches brought us to a superb left-slanting runnel of steep ice, before easy ground to the top. Great day!

Debbie Lee 20/Mar AltLd

Really enjoyable route. Good ice on the first two pitches. Third ice fall wasn't fully formed so outflanked to the right. Added in a bonus icy chimney just before the easy ground at the top. Great day out.

Ken Applegate 18/Mar Lead

Great ice on the first two pitches, good conditions thereafter, with a couple of 'mixed' steps, but very good considering the mild temperatures.

with Vic
3kidsandanorton 18/Mar AltLd

Excellent outing. First time on ice for 3 years but a beautiful day for it. Good ice on the first two pitches, third didn't look good so went to the right and found a nice little chimney just before the traverse at the top of Tower Ridge.

SPD224 16/Mar AltLd
with Martin Smith
cragtyke 15/Mar AltLd

In good condition, decent ice, main pitch felt sustained IV.

with glenn
GlennWatson 15/Mar AltLd
guy757 ??/2016 -
GlennWatson 13/Apr/15 Solo
Nath93 02/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Soloed up to the start of the main ice pitch and then got the ropes out. I lead from there and it is definitely in grade IV condition with super hard ice and fairly sustained at that. We had been planning on a mixed route so only had 6 ice screws which probably added to the feeling of difficulty knowing I only had a stubby between me and the belay. Mainly stuck to snow and ice after that and topped out onto Tower Ridge, great day to be up the hills!

kbow265 ?/Apr/15 AltLd

Walked in from Nathan's house via the path round the back of the smelter. First pitch felt steep for the grade (so Nathan led it), had a try at some chimneys further up but were poorly protected so skirted round the snowfield instead, topped out onto last few metres of Tower Ridge.

Bob.allan 21/Mar/15 2nd
spragglerocks 14/Feb/15 2nd O/S
markfairbank 14/Feb/15 Lead β

Long route! Especially in traffic. Finishing in the dark made for a long trek down the tourist path. In excellent condition.

Anne Gumbley 14/Feb/15 2nd
Lumbering Oaf 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & P2 were excellent with good ice. Led P1. Skirted rightward up slope around P3 and traversed back on to route. Upper pitches also in reasonable nick. The route was not stepped out. Topped out, using the top pitch of Tower Ridge, at dusk.

Batt 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, 4, 6, top out. Pitches 1, 2, were good ice pitches, top end III. Pitches 3,4 were the snow slopes out right and back left since belayed wrong at P3 so missed an ice pitch. Looked harder anyway. Pitches 5,6 more good ice, again not easy at III. Good nut belay top P5, bomber thread top P6. Finished up tower ridge. Cold, low vis, didn't eat enough but otherwise highly recommended route, would do again.

Hoyes 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Also with Rach and Matt. Excellent conditions. A sustained route with up to five ice pitches (went round the third as it looked a bit thin). A long day out - Iíve climbed easier grade IVís. Had to have a rest day afterwards!

petrch 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Maarten Youngman
davkeo 20/Jan/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/14 AltLd
alan.rodger 07/Apr/14 AltLd

Bergschrund at start.

morsg 07/Apr/14 AltLd
Robertgiddy 29/Mar/14 AltLd

Lots of snow on the route, First pitch of Glovers Chimney was completely buried. Good belays throughout.

Hidden 19/Apr/13 AltLd
luckyjim 10/Mar/13 AltLd
with D Helm
Hidden 10/Mar/13 AltLd
Dougbart 10/Mar/13 AltLd
with Iain
Ben Sharp 28/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Went off route and missed the top section

JasonK 23/Feb/13 Lead

Fantastic, but long day out. Very icy conditions. Second ice pitch was a sustained 45m of steep ice,and felt much harder (IV,4) than the grade. Not helped by a lack of ice screws!. Then I think we traversed round much further to the right than we were supposed to before finding a way to the top. A proper mountaineering adventure!

with Alec Carr
jasoncash 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Very steep Ice pitches for Grade III, good test of nerve on some bulletproof ice

markwarner ?/Feb/13 AltLd

Solid Grade 4 bullet hard water ice.

Brucemacrosson ?/Feb/13 AltLd
with Ruth Love
MTBAnimal 10/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
jandyd05 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Great climb definitely a IV in the conditions. All steep pitches were mainly ice, very little neve. Dodgy ice at bottom, better higher up for climbing but no so good for protecting.

Hidden 24/Feb/12 Lead
karinh 19/Feb/12 AltLd
with Colin G
Hidden 15/Feb/12 2nd
sdi 14/Feb/12 Solo O/S

One of the best routes I've ever done, even though I did nip around the start of the third icefall (it wasn't there...).

timday 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Terrific route. Nice steep ice at start, but what I guess is the third "hard to get onto" ice pitch seemed to be nonexistent (vertical rock wall topped with icicles?) and previous footprints led up right and then traversed left to go "around the block".We had 6 ice screws and wish we'd had a couple more. Above the clouds in inversion conditions for last few pitches and summit.

davidbird63 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Awesome. My first climb on the Ben. Best day on any mountain - yet! Good conditions little wind no precipitation. Topped out to see cloud inversion and sunset bueautiful. Fogbow at start showed the way up. We'll be back.

ten4dave 12/Feb/12 Lead
luckyjim 09/Feb/12 AltLd
with m mcdermott
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd
soularch 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Chris Thorne, Paul Queen
bob johnson 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S

started first two pitches off to the left gutter

with Mike Pescod
Hidden 28/Jan/12 AltLd
Piers Harley 16/Jan/12 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor, Paul Winder
Colin Mcgregor 15/Jan/12 AltLd
Hannah Evans 14/Jan/12 AltLd
with Tony Sheperd
dan doran ?/Jan/12 -
with konacol
Crowley6969 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Karlos 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, short and not so steep. Mark led P2, started easy, but got very steep right at the top, certainly harder than a III. Ice not so great, dinner plating off. Accidentally avoided P3 as Mark belayed too far off to the right, but then traversed back left on steep snow to get back on route. Mark led P4 up through upper buttress to belay just before the chimney. I led P5 for 60m, but then started moving together for the final snow slopes onto the summit. Great route, lots of ice, and a good alternative to Glovers if it gets too busy.

with Mark B
Hidden 12/Mar/11 AltLd
chrissy 05/Mar/11 AltLd

Found myself half way up pitch 2 with 1 ice screw left and finding it hardgoing. Made a belay and Rich then led onto the snowslope and we did alt leads then to the top. 7 pitches. Great route.Hats off to the victorians who ascended most of this route in 1907 without any ice screws!!

with Rich
Bob1984 11/Feb/11 2nd

First route on the Ben

Col Kingshott 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Finished up Beam me up Scotty.

Matt1234 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Conan 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Also known as Goodeves in my SMC guidebook. An excellent route with 6 long pitches, all of excellent standard. We used 60m ropes and 2 of the pitches were at full rope length. Top end of the grade but well protected on the more difficult sections. Start of pitch 3 was the crux.

with Philippa Reader, Loz
wildrover220 16/Mar/10 2nd
with Laurence Gill, John Trudgill, Pete Trudgill
Hidden 28/Mar/09 2nd
davefount 17/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
morsy 22/Feb/09 AltLd
with peter duggan
Simon K 01/Feb/09 2nd
with Mike Pescod + PR
Ross McGibbon ??/2009 -
dthomson 12/Apr/08 -

very hard for the grade on the ice pitches

with Mark Bannan
crowberry gully 07/Apr/08 -
with Ross McGibbon
markfairbank 23/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Completed the first pitch but backed off the second due to being short of ice screws. Shame, was in superb condition.

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 23/Mar/08 2nd dnf

Excellent ice conditions, but second ice fall requires more screws for a direct route.

with Mark Fairbank
tim newton 23/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with dave kenyon
My Gravity 09/Mar/08 2nd O/S

Went off route after the second pitch and ended up on the slopes of Raeburn's Easy Route. Traversed back right onto Hale Bopp for one pitch then back onto The White Line to the summit. T'was a long long route...

with Simon S
Just Another Dave ?/Feb/08 -
CurlyStevo ??/2008 AltLd

traversed in from cascade

suess 31/Mar/07 AltLd
Captain Solo 25/Mar/07 Solo
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1994 -
ste_d 02/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 02/Apr/92 Lead O/S
innes ??/1990 -
Hidden 18/Mar/71 AltLd
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set