Argyll and Bute > Bidean nam Bian >
 
North Route Direct** III

Adjacent Climbs
<< North Route (Icefall variation)
 
Diamond Route >>
[The upper pitches of North Route Direct, 3 kb]180m, 5 pitches. North Route Direct - direct Start as the guide-book but climb the groove throughout in about three pitches - about 120 metres. Crux is a steepening at about 90 metres [guide book alternatives appear to avoid this by a ridge on the right]. Finish up easier section of ridge above. IV/4. Worth a star or two.

Photo: The upper pitches of North Route Direct © Only a hill
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Might have done bits of North Route but it certainly felt at least grade III. A good understarred route.
Captain Solo - Solo - 27/Jan/12

North Route Direct 'Direct'? Climb the groove direct for about 100 metres, with a steepening [4] at about 70m. Then by the ridge left or right, more easily, to the top. **
John Workman - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Chris D

aged_ape - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/11

isi_o - 2nd - 25/Nov/10 with Jamie Bankhead

Hidden - 01/Feb/09

We think this is the route we did. We climbed the chimney/scoop to the left of the arete on dry rock. We then went left above and scrambled to the top. Not in great condition after a thaw. Black butresses, mediocre snow/ice.
decs - 01/Feb/09 with Konrad

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/08

Topped out at dusk - got back to the Clachaig very late!
Gustav - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Matt G and Ad

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, simonjkinsella, Hidden, Only a hill

Voting
Total votes cast 4
hard IV0 of 2
IV0 of 2
easy IV1 of 2
hard III1 of 2
III0 of 2
easy III0 of 2
hard II/III0 of 2
II/III0 of 2
easy II/III0 of 2
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars1 of 2
1 Star1 of 2
0 Stars0 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.