Cream* HVS 5a
50m. HVS 5a, 5a, 4c. This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay. Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang. Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish. A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

An adventure. Amazing positions, the move leaving the the 1st belay, although well protected felt much harder than 5a.
MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Rod

A Downing - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with DJ

Amazing route! Different from anything else i have climbed at llany
deejmonkey - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Andy D

Took a loose direct route up the wall after 1st pitch...
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Jon Thompson

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/08

dts - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Andy Taylor

Ground fall from 25ft up P1, pulled a big block off which took my gear with it, ripped peg may have slowed me up but turned me over resulting in major arm injury. Just thought I should warn you.
caradoc - Lead dnf - 29/May/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gd303uk, gary.barr
Voting
Total votes cast 3
hard E10 of 2
E10 of 2
easy E10 of 2
hard HVS0 of 2
HVS2 of 2
easy HVS0 of 2
hard VS0 of 2
VS0 of 2
easy VS0 of 2
hard 5b0 of 1
5b0 of 1
easy 5b0 of 1
hard 5a0 of 1
5a1 of 1
easy 5a0 of 1
hard 4c0 of 1
4c0 of 1
easy 4c0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 0
2 Stars0 of 0
1 Star0 of 0
0 Stars0 of 0
Bag of .....0 of 0
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