50m. HVS 5a, 5a, 4c.
This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay.
Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang.
Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish.
A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.

MikeYouCanClimb 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

An adventure. Amazing positions, the move leaving the the 1st belay, although well protected felt much harder than 5a.

with Rod
A Downing 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with DJ
deejmonkey 09/May/09 2nd

Amazing route! Different from anything else i have climbed at llany

with Andy D
Alex Thompson 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Took a loose direct route up the wall after 1st pitch...

Hidden 15/Mar/08 Lead
dts 15/Mar/08 2nd O/S
caradoc 29/May/00 Lead dnf

Ground fall from 25ft up P1, pulled a big block off which took my gear with it, ripped peg may have slowed me up but turned me over resulting in major arm injury. Just thought I should warn you.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gd303uk, gary.barr
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set