|50m. HVS 5a, 5a, 4c.|
This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay.
Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang.
Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish.
A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.
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