Shropshire > Llanymynech Quarry >
 
Cream* HVS 5a

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50m. HVS 5a, 5a, 4c. This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay. Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang. Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish. A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

An adventure. Amazing positions, the move leaving the the 1st belay, although well protected felt much harder than 5a.
MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Rod

A Downing - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with DJ

Amazing route! Different from anything else i have climbed at llany
deejmonkey - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Andy D

Took a loose direct route up the wall after 1st pitch...
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Jon Thompson

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/08

dts - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Andy Taylor

Ground fall from 25ft up P1, pulled a big block off which took my gear with it, ripped peg may have slowed me up but turned me over resulting in major arm injury. Just thought I should warn you.
caradoc - Lead dnf - 29/May/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gd303uk, gary.barr

Voting
Total votes cast 3
hard E10 of 2
E10 of 2
easy E10 of 2
hard HVS0 of 2
HVS2 of 2
easy HVS0 of 2
hard VS0 of 2
VS0 of 2
easy VS0 of 2
hard 5b0 of 1
5b0 of 1
easy 5b0 of 1
hard 5a0 of 1
5a1 of 1
easy 5a0 of 1
hard 4c0 of 1
4c0 of 1
easy 4c0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 0
2 Stars0 of 0
1 Star0 of 0
0 Stars0 of 0
Bag of .....0 of 0
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