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|Shropshire > Llanymynech Quarry >|
|Cream|| HVS 5a|
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|50m. HVS 5a, 5a, 4c.
This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay.
Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang.
Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish.
A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.|
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
An adventure. Amazing positions, the move leaving the the 1st belay, although well protected felt much harder than 5a.
MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Rod
A Downing - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with DJ
Amazing route! Different from anything else i have climbed at llany
deejmonkey - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Andy D
Took a loose direct route up the wall after 1st pitch...
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Jon Thompson
Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/08
dts - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Andy Taylor
Ground fall from 25ft up P1, pulled a big block off which took my gear with it, ripped peg may have slowed me up but turned me over resulting in major arm injury. Just thought I should warn you.
caradoc - Lead dnf - 29/May/00
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