Cream* HVS 5a
50m. HVS 5a, 5a, 4c.
This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay.
Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang.
Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish.
A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

An adventure. Amazing positions, the move leaving the the 1st belay, although well protected felt much harder than 5a.
MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Rod

A Downing - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with DJ

Amazing route! Different from anything else i have climbed at llany
deejmonkey - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Andy D

Took a loose direct route up the wall after 1st pitch...
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Jon Thompson

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/08

dts - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Andy Taylor

Ground fall from 25ft up P1, pulled a big block off which took my gear with it, ripped peg may have slowed me up but turned me over resulting in major arm injury. Just thought I should warn you.
caradoc - Lead dnf - 29/May/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gd303uk, gary.barr
Total votes cast 3
hard E10 of 2
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