Penny Black*** E2 5c
59m, 2 pitches. A superb direct line up the middle of the Main Face to reach the middle of Virgo ledge, with an independent finish on the crag above. Start - 2m right of Lunar Wall at a small V-shaped recess.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb groove in back of recess to stance. Step up to flake at arete and climb shallow corner to gain square-cut ledge on the arete. Move up and right to good cracks (crux) leading up the wall to below a final small overhang. Climb directly up through this to reach the Virgo ledge.
2) 5a, 24m. From the right-hand end of the large overhang to the right of Virgo Pitch 4 make an ascending leftwards traverse back over the overhang to gain the nose which is followed to the top.
R.Greene, R. Cowan (Two aid points). /69. S. Billane (One aid point). 9/75. E. Cooper, T. Ryan (First free ascent). /83

Ticklists: 3 Star Mournes, MRes Ticklist, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

jhill - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14

Absolute quality start to finish. Well protected steep climbing with sustained climbing throughout and a good testy crux.
KKilroy - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/14 with emma Thompson, caelan

The crux is hard as nails. Downclimbed to rest a few times, Could not figure it out. Eventually went for it and fell off exhausted. Otherwise solid E2 - the last few moves looked fine. Felt harder than GBH at Fair Head!
RKernan - Lead dnf - 17/Jul/13 with Sinéad Oakes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 06/Oct/12

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 5
hard E30 of 2
E31 of 2
easy E30 of 2
hard E21 of 2
E20 of 2
easy E20 of 2
hard E10 of 2
E10 of 2
easy E10 of 2
hard 6a0 of 2
6a1 of 2
easy 6a0 of 2
hard 5c0 of 2
5c1 of 2
easy 5c0 of 2
hard 5b0 of 2
5b0 of 2
easy 5b0 of 2
3 Stars1 of 1
2 Stars0 of 1
1 Star0 of 1
0 Stars0 of 1
Bag of .....0 of 1
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.