UKC

18m. I did the FA of this route with my friend Peter (Piggy) Johnstone - unfortunately Piggy passed away in 2022 after a long battle with MS. We cleaned a whole mass of lichen of the wall to get to the route underneath. As I had a bristling beard at the time, the name came easily and obviously. Grade confirmed by Paul Pritchard on a visit to the area climbing with Piggy. At the time it was a high E3 due to the rock being so unclimbed and still quite fissile - crystals were breaking under my feet, but the whole experience with the atmosphere is just wonderful. Enjoy.

FA. John Matthews, Peter Johnstone Jul/1986.

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High E4
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High 6c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Dream/Liberator

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Great Zawn)

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