Midlothian > Ratho Quarry >
Strongarm** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Shear Fear
Wally 3 >>
[Through the crux traverse, and onward in good style., 3 kb]The next flake crack right is a distinctly tougher proposition than Shear Fear. Climb to good holds beneath the shallow corner, and step up to place high runners. Step down and make a delicate move into the thin flake crack, and blast up this before strength or confidence fade. A good finish from the easier ground above is to swing right and finish direct at the scaffolding pipe, bonus points for not touching it on the finishing mantel.

Photo: Through the crux traverse, and onward in good style. © Dr Toph
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This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - TR - Aug/13

Nice climb. The layback is strenuous.
stugreen75 - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/12 with dominic jeff

x2 :(
Denpov - TR dnf - 12/Jun/12

GOod solid lead by Will. Direct finish
Dr Toph - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/12 with Will

Denpov - TR dnf - 06/Mar/12

Harry Holmes - Lead dnf - 29/Feb/12 with Joanna

self belay - failed
Denpov - TR dnf - 14/Oct/11

worked out the crux, now need to climb complete.
Denpov - TR dnf - 11/Oct/11

andyinglis - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Neil Adams

Barn doored and blew my onsight! Lowered off and tried again. Got it second time with my nuggin engaged, what a cool move :)
sebrider - Lead RP - 25/Jul/11 with R. Rider

will leave this route for the future. Cant get the crux.
Denpov - TR dnf - 17/May/11

Toprope self belay. Couldn't get crux but will be back to work at it.
Denpov - TR dnf - 10/May/11

jameshiggins - 2nd O/S - 07/May/11 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - Lead rpt - 07/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/11

Peter Rhodes - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/11 with Gemma Gwynne-Stevenson

Sam the Butcher - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with andy latta

New (?) direct finish - once you reach the top of the second crack, reach right to a side-pull and high step. Go straight up this line to reach the borehole, and lunge for the top. Recommended! Keeps the climbing going with a bit more 6a rather than exiting the easy way. Maybe E46a.
Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 24/May/10 with Davide

Nice wee move left to the other crack, very pleasing.
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/10 with Davide

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with mal_meech

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/09

Nice route not as tough as cyked it up to be, got to stop doing that. Fell of the crux, a hard move requiring a hell of a lot of body tension, got it all-right second go. Tough crux but all right climbing before and after. Ground up.
andymoin - Lead - 15/Sep/08 with Warren

great wee route, some nice moves into the ramp and onwards.good lead by Ali the Flashman C.
SeanB - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with ali

akhughes - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Greg B

mgeek - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tony Stone

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 01/May/93 with Norman Armstrong

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JamieSparkes, Hidden, Ian Jones

Total votes cast 35
hard E40 of 13
E40 of 13
easy E40 of 13
hard E30 of 13
E39 of 13
easy E32 of 13
hard E22 of 13
E20 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard 6b0 of 12
6b0 of 12
easy 6b0 of 12
hard 6a3 of 12
6a6 of 12
easy 6a2 of 12
hard 5c0 of 12
5c1 of 12
easy 5c0 of 12
3 Stars0 of 10
2 Stars8 of 10
1 Star2 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead14 of 28 (50.0%)
Followed6 of 28 (21.4%)
Toproped7 of 28 (25.0%)
Unknown1 of 28 (3.6%)

'Climbed'5 of 28 (17.9%)
clean O/S10 of 28 (35.7%)
clean β1 of 28 (3.6%)
clean rpt4 of 28 (14.3%)
clean RP1 of 28 (3.6%)
dnf7 of 28 (25.0%)