Follow the rightwards trending seam until it is possible to bridge across to Ladder Resist and finish up easier ground to the lower-off. Best approached via Mental Lentils as the scramble up the ledge is loose and unpleasant.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 28/Oct Lead O/S
masa-alpin 28/Oct 2nd β
with Scott G
adi bryant 19/Sep Lead rpt
dswansonlow 18/Sep 2nd O/S
with James Docherty
Dafydd Llywelyn 10/Sep Lead O/S
with Clare Wigley, Jamie
JamieSparkes 10/Sep 2nd O/S

Fun technical climbing until the last move, then it turns a tad inelegant.

JRJones 04/Sep 2nd rpt
with Jonathan Al-Qazzaz
jalqazzaz 04/Sep Lead G/U
MischaHY 30/Aug Lead O/S
ned_85 30/Aug Lead
with Adam Freeman
Wendy Watthews 29/Aug 2nd O/S
with Chris BCF
elliptic 29/Aug Lead
with Wendy M.
jalqazzaz 29/Aug 2nd O/S
GDun98 18/Aug Lead rpt

Had another epic but found gear this time

with Sian
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
alanblyth 13/Aug 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 13/Aug Lead O/S

Pretty hard route, with spaced but good protection. Seems miles harder than any of the other E1's I've done on slate. I wouldn't argue with soft E2. Dangerous if you aren't good at placing small, fiddly gear

with Alan
Hidden 05/Aug Lead O/S
harold walmsley 21/Jul Lead O/S

A very real challenge, tough for E1 but good small gear. Felt like the hardest route of the day

with Rick Newcombe
Hidden 18/Jul 2nd
guy757 09/Jul -
with Vic
kenneM 05/Jul Lead O/S

Good route

with Nick Murray
max_dickens 25/Jun 2nd rpt
with Andrei
mzk 24/Jun -
Hinchrn 24/Jun Lead O/S
with Johny Logan
tmawer 23/Jun Lead O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 23/Jun 2nd
with Tony
Rachel Somerville 21/Jun 2nd
with Fred
BAdhoc 06/Jun Lead O/S

Hard. Very glad I didn't fall off.

98%monkey 06/Jun 2nd O/S
with Al Dibben
Dibdawg 06/Jun Lead O/S
with Phil Mitchel
JamesWilliams 31/May Lead rpt

On James gear

spidermonkey09 30/May Lead O/S

Desperate for E1!

jacob shieldhouse hadley 28/May Lead O/S

felt harder than ladder resist! safe though. amazing route best E1 on slate i've done.

with tom
Rafal Malczyk 25/May 2nd dog

I couldn't do the 1st move so cheated by using nearby tree as a foothold.

with Martin Bagshaw
Martin Bagshaw 25/May Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Davesmith1981 25/May 2nd
with neil phillips
belay bunny turned bad 16/May -
James Beaumont 13/May Lead O/S
max_dickens 09/May Lead O/S
Hannes B 09/May Lead O/S
with Sam P, Ewan
jamiev 04/May Lead O/S
with Tim Parkinson
charley 01/May Lead O/S

Amazing to get this. Looks really intimidating and certainly not my style of climbing. Was expecting to take some air time before setting off. Glad the hand holds are all positive as there's not much at all for your feet on the face. Was expecting it to be pumpy but only my left foot seemed to suffer. There's a good nut placement near the end, just before the bridge across but you loose a nice hold so I took it back out (might be able to get a micro cam in just below it). Pretty happy with the rest of the gear though but didn't want to test it with the runout at the end..

with Jack
davebrox 27/Apr Lead G/U
with Luke
Hidden 22/Apr 2nd
jalqazzaz 22/Apr 2nd O/S
ashtond6 19/Apr Lead O/S

sandbag city. Way more dangerous than I was expecting.... would have lowered off if I trusted any gear to do so

GDun98 06/Apr Lead O/S

First E1 after doing 1 HVS and a handful of VSs

jon_gill1 05/Apr Lead O/S

Found this one pretty gnarly but wasn't at all pumpy but quite scary and a fair run out near the end. Amazed that others did this for their first E1!!!

with chris Lyness
DavidEvans 04/Apr 2nd
with Ste Brock
Hidden 31/Mar 2nd
ChrisAllen 14/Mar -
with Sam Morgan
Paul Collins ?/Mar Lead O/S
with Jason
Hidden ??/2015 -
adie84 ??/2015 -
Ian craigie ??/2015 Lead
with Greg cain
benw681 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
dom94 11/Oct/14 2nd
with NNNNina, Matt Groom
Hidden 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S
mr mills 12/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Roger
westaway 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
mattfarr 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Found this one quite tricky.

with Simon
Tim Hamlet 28/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow 01/Jun/14 -
with Piers Nesbitt
Hidden 29/May/14 2nd
tobydunford 29/May/14 2nd β
with Harry Martin
jezb1 26/May/14 Lead

As part of link up, cheeky step across and balancy up to there.

sian88 25/May/14 2nd O/S
James_L88 25/May/14 Lead dog

After 2 false starts, fell off the last move trying to bridge out right.

with Kat Day
Hidden 01/May/14 2nd O/S
will moy 01/May/14 Lead O/S
with tom thorne
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Alexis
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys 07/Jan/14 2nd rpt
MarkRoe 07/Jan/14 Lead rpt
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead
Si ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Andy Peak 1 24/Nov/13 Lead

put lots of bad gear in! most fell out

with Dan bates
funsized 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Fi
rustaldo 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Harder than I remember.

with Alex
mc fifi 23/Nov/13 2nd
wi11 23/Oct/13 2nd β

In the dark, made it a bit tricky!

with Anna G
Hidden 23/Oct/13 Lead O/S
chris nutman ?/Oct/13 Lead dog

Use really small gear!! Nice balancy foot traverse.

adamre12 ?/Oct/13 2nd
adamre12 ?/Oct/13 2nd
adamre12 29/Sep/13 Lead
JamesWilliams 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

after dropping crucial nuts in fumble it make the top section a scary runout but gave myself a talking to! the feet off move to the jug lower down is awesome

bede.west 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S


Stefan_Morris 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Hannah Thompson, AndrewJamesCherry
Marti999 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
hannahmmt ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
BRoe 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Phil Blue 19/Aug/13 Lead β

Lead on pre-placed gear, most of which were referred to as 'joke placements' by the initial leader. Felt like a normal lead due to this as gear was moved and more was placed on second lead. the hard step took some effort and some more stretchiness; felt tough for 5c but not 6a? fun and strenuous

kabutsu 19/Aug/13 Lead

Lead on pre-placed gear.

whitehouse_rhys 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with heather osborn, Rob law, ben roe
Heather Osborne 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rob Law
angus 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Philbert
DanielGyi 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Second climb of the Vivian Quarry link up. Really nice and technical.

hlegge 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

mixture of balance and hand campus-ing used.

with Dan Gyi
joeflan 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
nigel pearson 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

good tough little climb.

with Robin
pete87abs ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Graham, rob
JamesLloyd 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

first E1 lead! funk yeah

Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
cbeard 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Spicy! Great gear once you get up to it. I wish it was longer

kdalzell 15/Jul/13 TR
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead β
duncandarnell 05/Jul/13 -

after mental lentis

guy757 01/Jul/13 -
tim newton 20/May/13 2nd O/S
BenRyle 16/May/13 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Sam Melville ??/2013 Lead
shed_hed 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic little route! Didn't think the climbing was too bad (sustained 5b?) but managed to get good no hands rests with feet in the crack for pretty much every gear placement so it wasn't pumpy at all. Used Ryan's brass offsets, awesome bits of gear! They just fit, need to get me some! Think using them brings the grade down a bit as I was able to get a lot of gear in and only had a little run out at the very top.

with Ryan Gibson
Kevin Robert Jones 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 08/Aug/12 2nd
with pete sargeant
Tom Redmond ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with craig morrison
frost 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Adam
A Crook 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

great climbing up small holds

Hidden 08/Jul/12 2nd
greenclimb 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Ows ?/Jul/12 Lead

Not clean!

Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead
Alex.M-M. 01/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 30/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice appealing line but hard, hard work. Especially the reach at the end.

Hidden 27/May/12 2nd rpt
Owain Llewelyn 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
MD 26/May/12 Lead dog

I'd done the hard part of the climb but my shoe came undone just before the long step right. Had to rest on gear to re-tie it.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 26/May/12 2nd O/S
with Mike D
The Mountain Goat 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
Pippa 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie Thornley, Tink
mountain_jay 05/May/12 2nd
Sardien 02/May/12 2nd rpt
with Matthew Jaques
nige 11/Mar/12 Lead
with mark hounslea
Tom Livingstone 23/Feb/12 Lead rpt
jossjones ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Dan724 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Unusual sideways gear placements and an exciting step right to easier climbing. Great route and thankfully easier than it looks.

with Dan Ely
CaptainCrush ?/Jan/12 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
air ??/2012 Lead O/S

first E1 in Wales, chose it for the name

Hidden 20/Nov/11 2nd rpt
Bennykr 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

sweet little climb

Michael Allday 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

very easy for the grade

with John beecham
Alex.M-M. 13/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Oct/11 2nd
Nigel Mackwood ?/Oct/11 TR RP

"Shunted" it on a top-rope.

Sebastien Gastaud 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Very nice

thecurlyone 27/Sep/11 2nd O/S
tigertim 27/Sep/11 2nd
Johann 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Mo Chapman
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead dog
BorisVBlade 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
MarkRoe 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S

The only time i've ever seen Smiths scared, this is a bit of a hidden gem.

with Smithy
mksmith35 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Mr Fuller 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with annabelle, loundsy
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Misha 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike D, Tom
MD 13/Aug/11 2nd
with Tom, Misha
Matthew Robinson 31/Jul/11 Lead
with Dave, Luke
Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Jen Crook 23/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Lauren Davies 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S
dmoir 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Em66 11/Jul/11 2nd
with Mat
metal arms 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead
markalmack 25/Jun/11 2nd β
with Andy hall
eugeneth 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S
farmus21 09/Jun/11 Lead dog

Harder than I thought.

with Eugene Theron
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Alex.M-M. 04/Jun/11 Lead dog
pudding 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
a13x 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Matthew Murphy
clairejane ?/Jun/11 Lead

second lead on slate afer mental lentils. fell/wussed out to an rp after trying crux, finished after some beta from the team. ace

with will
Hidden 30/May/11 2nd O/S
Cardi 11/May/11 Lead O/S

Technical. Glad to have the brass offsets!

with Clare D
alexjz 06/May/11 2nd
with Matt Burdekin
Gareth Pritchard 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Huw Cropper 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Gareth Pritchard
saalty 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Terri, eddy, jay
siah 10/Apr/11 Lead RP
terri mc 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jay, Eddy, Alex
vertically_challenged ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 14/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with jason
Hidden 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with pete
Yong_Welsh 18/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Ed morris 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Short,sharp and nasty :)

Haydn Jones 12/Dec/10 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Not as pumpy as suggested if good footwork is used, especially when placing gear.

givemetea 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Bayley
rustaldo 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Al
al123 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with matt
tomdude 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with olly
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 18/Aug/10 2nd
centurion05 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Sandy Simpson 12/Aug/10 -
with Ross Hewitt
sam820 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

in lunch break!!!

with Sam D
Sardien 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome, though gear is tricky to place in the second half of the crag, which gives it a nice extra touch (especially when things start falling out)

with Johnny
willoates 21/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Ed
Coel Hellier 18/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
PeteH 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Andy Butler ?/Jun/10 2nd β
stoned 29/May/10 TR
david morse 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with Oli+Andy
lrandall 28/May/10 Lead β

After belaying Mat up it. Really nice route: short but packs in some interesting moves with adequate pro. Wouldn't call it pumpy tho, as per North Wales Rock, much more technical then anything else. Grade is spot on.

Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead O/S
willoates 11/May/10 Lead O/S

the guide says its pumpy, but i found good rests the whole way up. stiff for E1. a bit run out at the top i thought.

with Steve
Steeve 11/May/10 2nd O/S
with will
mr mills 10/May/10 Lead rpt
with paul simkiss
dicky79 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Pete
Nick Nitro 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S
SAF 09/Feb/10 2nd
soph 01/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Mark crampton
Alex Mason 10/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Stiff. E2.

with Mikey G
Hidden 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 16/Oct/09 2nd O/S
hervenuttall ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with tom dixon
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
sinbad 17/Aug/09 2nd

hard move at top

with Mike Raine
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
lukehodson 24/Jun/09 Lead dnf

spicy! backed off on a skyhook...

with Loz
ksjs 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S

great fun - this looks a bit full on after youve done the first move or two and are staring straight up the crack but ultimately its very steady. great gear throughout and a good finish - short but very worthwhile.

Hidden 19/Jun/09 2nd
ASchwirtz 23/May/09 Lead O/S
beci tointen ?/May/09 Lead O/S

in the rain!

with Jamie Kean
jgrigson 27/Apr/09 Lead dog
willson 21/Apr/09 2nd

Awesome moves. Nearly as hard to second!

with ben
Hidden 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 15/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with michael porter
mzchambers 12/Apr/09 Lead β
with Joe
Ceridwen 05/Apr/09 Lead dog

This was my second ever climb on slate and my first E1, right after mental lentils. I rested two times.

with Martin
scorky345 28/Mar/09 Lead
tim20 28/Mar/09 2nd
Noodles 26/Feb/09 Lead

kick ass. Awesome route.

Hidden 26/Feb/09 Lead
smallerrich 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
samrad ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
benchwarmer 18/Sep/08 Lead dnf

was tired

with Calum Musket
Mike Goldthorp ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Jono
Daniel Wrightson 19/Jul/08 2nd
Oliver Sherman 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
dan gibson 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden 11/Jun/08 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Hidden 20/May/08 Lead O/S
nickwhimster ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Brian Cox
adam06 20/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Lloyders 10/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Parry
ChalkBall 26/Jan/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
mattyork2 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
petellis 10/Nov/07 2nd
datoon 25/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Richard Toon
SecretSquirrel 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 21/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with SecretSquirrel
RachubAndy 21/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with Dave
Ropeboy 30/Sep/07 Lead
@ndyM@rsh@ll 14/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Very sustained, fun

climbingpixie 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Ace route, not particularly strenuous apart from on my left leg. Good gear and an inspiring line make this one of my favourite slate routes.

with James
Hidden 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Glyn ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Bandi
nathanmanc 03/Jun/07 Lead β
Hidden 17/May/07 Lead
Hidden 13/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/07 Lead dog
johnyo 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
feilx 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Floris
barni 09/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Nick Beckett 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Jim Rogers
matjaques ??/2007 2nd
with Moony
IOAN D ?/Mar/06 -
with rhys
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2006 -
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Oct/04 Lead
Mark A Humphries 10/May/04 Lead β
with Nick Barrowclough
Rob Davies ?/Sep/03 Lead dog

Placed loads of small wires but came unstuck on final move R

with Les Goram
rapidrich 12/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
zero six ??/2002 Lead O/S
kitkat78 ?/Jun/00 2nd
with Tim F
Northen Vince ??/2000 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/1999 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/1999 -
Hidden 03/May/98 2nd
MjrTom ?/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ??/1998 -
cragspud ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
John Pickles 26/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Paul Boardman ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Iain Boardman
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
kristian ??/1996 -
Julian Wedd ??/1996 Lead
with Dave Evans
Hidden 20/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Tom Vivian 21/Mar/94 2nd
nai ??/1993 Lead
steve taylor ??/1993 -
Hidden 07/Jun/92 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1992 -
andrew300169 27/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Tim
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/91 Lead

First E1 lead, a bit scarey for the crux.

with Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis
tlr 27/Jul/91 Lead
with Cal
mattnuttall 15/Jul/91 Lead β
with Matthieu Mounier
goi.ashmore 06/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Ceri Jones, Gwyn Llanberis
chrisdavies ??/1991 Lead O/S
jfletcher 21/Oct/90 -
Paul Figg ?/Sep/90 Lead
mattnuttall 16/Aug/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
Hidden 05/May/90 Lead
kato'sdad ?/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/90 Lead
Hidden 18/Mar/90 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 2nd
with Dave Roberts
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with peter hadfield
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Colin13 ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
davemhart 02/Jan/89 Lead O/S
NickHarms ??/1989 -
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 04/Sep/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 -
Ken Taylor 25/Jun/83 AltLd
with George Diprose
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamie d, cameronr11, Hidden, Hidden, brew_guru, Larey, Hidden, mzk, jennycutedge, Hidden, Hidden, tomwright1509, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Sol Armer, psronan, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Katex, Hidden, Hidden, Huw Cropper, Hidden, Hidden, benchwarmer, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 81
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 77
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set