Very snowy. Both on the ground and from sky. Tough going as a result. Only 1 screw placed in the entire route. Turf unfrozen even near the top (except the ridge), the temperature above freezing except the upper part of the final gully, despite the cold forecast. Moved together before reaching the final gully. 6 hours on route. Zoe's first Scottish winter route since 2 seasons ago.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/15 with Zoe Proc
Soft snow for the first 2/3 then better in the upper third, very Alpine.
jshields - AltLd - 10/Feb/15 with Mike Lea
Entry to ramp a bit tricky with loose snow and poor ice. Top pitch fairly short on good neve.
johnkeith - Solo - 26/Jan/15
Tons of snow and whiteout - nice!
Sir Stefan - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/14 with David Hayward
yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014
Climbed upper ramp with 30m ice pitch to start which was I gave great, but hollow thudding placements and was pleased it didn't collapse on me. On ramp belays diff to find but semi pitched / moved together and hot work in the sun. N pipe was in nice nick with pleasant mix of neve and ice. A great long climb and another epic topout on Meggie.
Yourlead - AltLd - 05/Apr/13 with Paul Freeman
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/13
DaveAtkinson - AltLd - 05/Apr/13 with jw
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Apr/13
Saintly - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Jenny, stimpey
Tim Rodgers - Solo - 09/Mar/13 with Adam Lockett, Chris Down
drsdave - 2nd - Mar/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13
Moved together up lower gully slopes on hard packed neve, thinning to turf in a couple of places. Then each led a pitch to top out in cloud. Walked to the summit of Creag Meagaidh, then back down through 'the window'.
prwalker - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with wupert
Hidden - Solo - 27/Feb/13
martinh13 - Solo - 27/Feb/13 with Alan
Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/13
Hidden - 24/Feb/13
Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Feb/13
Hidden - 2nd - 24/Feb/13
Moved together up the snow ramp (very stepped out) then finished up South Pipe for a more exciting finish
iksander - 23/Feb/13
Base pitch felt difficult for grade with hard brittle ice; remainder was an easy snow plod
JulesR - AltLd - 23/Feb/13
Took variation ice route on left. Quite exciting due to poor and steeper ice near the top. Rest of route straightforward. Thanks to guys waiting for South pipe in easing or way through.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 23/Feb/13 with Amy Till
Gazlynn - AltLd - 22/Feb/13 with Andy Giff
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13
Did Staghorn gully up to the last pitch. Exited through the South Pipe, top two pitches of South Pipe direct (IV.4). The Staghorn gully up to the pipes was grade I terrain on that day.
andrzej kierzek - Lead dnf - 22/Feb/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13
Whitters - 2nd - 21/Feb/13
Hidden - Solo dnf - 21/Feb/13
Moved together for most - barely worth pitching
arose - Lead - 19/Feb/13 with Hannah Francis
Perfect nevé throughout, though "Alpine conditions" with any snow exposed to sunlight softening rapidly.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/13
Tightsgirl - 2nd - 19/Feb/13 with Ali Rose
Direct start. Led up to the belay below the Pipes. Start pitch had good ice under a lot of rotten ice and snow, otherwise mostly a snow plod apart from one short step at the top of the gully.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Tom Starks
GlennWatson - Solo - 19/Feb/13
Direct start(good ice after cruddy start).Moved together on middle pitch to below pipes and final snow slope.Aimed for South Pipe but much rotten ice being sent down from above so finished up North Pipe(one nice ice step,good direct,rest easy snow slope)
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Alan Blanchflower
keithlambley - AltLd - 19/Feb/13 with Jeff H, Kate R
Easy nick, lovely day out.
LakesWinter - Lead - 18/Feb/13 with Dave
Soloed up into the South Pipe. Ice pitch not in good condition as snow-ice was slushy. A long route which could be more difficult if lean.
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Colin
Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13
abbeywall - AltLd rpt - 15/Feb/13 with K
In great condition very easy technically but sheer length means it probably still merits grade.
Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/13 with Myself!
Solo up the ramp then Nigel gave me a top rope across the exposed ridge and round to the foot of the gully. Kev led the next pitch and I led the next full 60m pitch leaving a simple snow slope to the top.
NathanP - AltLd - 12/Feb/13
lower 2/3rds snow gullies - digging uphill
alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13 with alexander carn
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13
Lots of deep snow and spin drift
jamesh - AltLd - 01/Feb/13 with Jim Unwin
Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with michael kirby
Walked into Meggie in pleasant conditions with Guide intending to look at North or South Pipe. Skirted round the direct route ice falls on soft snow and good frozen turf but increasingly heavy snowfall and large spindrift avalanches from both the Pipes suggested an escape route up the finish of the Pumpkin. High winds and near whiteout on summit made for difficult escape via the Window. My swan song day on Scottish winter climbing went out with a bang!
Ann S - 2nd dnf - 31/Jan/13 with Scott Kirkhope MIC
tim20 - 2013
Soloed first 200m, top a bit disappointing for 3*
Batt - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with James Hoyes
A really enjoyable long route followed by a nice ramble to the summit and bum slide down from the Window.
Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Simon C, Rachel B
Solo P1. Jim P2,4,6,8. Me 3,5,7.
P7 was the ice bulge at top of North Pipe. Ice a bit cruddy.
On rest of route protection sparse. Turf not very well frozen. Good scenary. Nice long Route for Jims 50th Birthday
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12 with Jim Symon
Route up to gulley in great condition, gulley has a river running down it. Bailed on route and abbed down.
jon59 - AltLd - 16/Jan/12
luckyjim - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Narked4fun - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Very Wet with no real ice to speak of. Shame, but how you can you be disappointed when you are able to walk out with the sun on your back.
jameshiggins - Solo - 27/Feb/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/11
Hidden - AltLd - 21/Feb/11
A long, terrifying story. Did a silly alternative start, conditions were apocalyptic. Highlights included being spindrift avalanched till I was buried while belaying off half a nut and two equalised ice axes. I would love to go back and do this climb in nicer conditions.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Tom e
The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - Feb/11 with robert taylor
Soloed most of the route then Al led the final two pitches up the chimney. Really nice route with an Alpine feel.
dansmonkeytroubles - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Alan Vincent, Steph Duits
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11
Bit of a bimble. Moved together for most of it.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Becky Stedham
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/11
Retreated before final chimney
matt.woodfield - 21/Jan/11
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/11
awfull snow conditions, bailed off near south pipe direct
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd dnf - Jan/11 with Nik Goile
Hidden - 2011
Timo Austino - 2011
PAJames - 2011
Hidden - 2011
rossn - 2011
Lone Rider - 2011
With Ali and Caroline
davebrox - Lead - 2011
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011
Great fun although a bit drippy. We finished up south pipe direct.
R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Adam
Move together up to final gully, then pitched final two pitches. Final ice step was good fun.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with Hannah Evans
Hannah Evans - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with Ken Applegate
Amazing day, topping out in the sun!
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/10 with Alex Desborough
Very busy day.
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Carol Goodall
1st Winter lead...Excellent route, great day out!
Duggers71 - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Darren Hartley
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/10
mikemartin - AltLd - 09/Feb/10
jack_eadie - AltLd - 09/Feb/10
Moved together up the ramp. First two pitches a bit unconsolidated but the rest was lovely ice especially near the top. Must buy more screws!
220bpm - AltLd rpt - 07/Feb/10 with Snowboarder
First grade 3 .Lead 2nd pitch
snowboarder - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with Mark
HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Martin Coleman
riven - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Ollie Kenyon
Soloed initial gully to avoid queueing. Got a bit lost on the way down.
oliverk - AltLd - 06/Feb/10 with Joe
moved together then pitched the final gully, lots fresh snow down over hard neve made things feel a little dodgy as gear was hard to find.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/10 with Scott Becker
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/10
Ommuff - AltLd - Feb/10 with Mike Brian
lawrenceK - AltLd - 21/Jan/10
with bill from glasgow
spoony84 - Lead - Jan/10
colinthrelfall - 2010
In very mixed conditions. Like a mixture between summer and winter. Top ice pitch was an impassable waterfall. Cue hairy and long traverse round past Pumpkin to find a way to the summit.
steveP - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Paul Rowlands
A fine mixed route, thats part winter, part summer! Traversed along before last chimney due to poor snow conditions, making a bit more of a adventure. Topped out on a grade II
joe king - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with steve pettit
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/09
jam_rich - AltLd - Dec/08
Route had a lot of snow on it. One ice pitch involved in which I placed 3 ice screw runners.
Tom Row - AltLd - 12/Apr/08 with Sarah Magee
dangates - AltLd - Apr/08 with Tom Marshall
NickBrown - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/07 with Tim
Captain Solo - Solo - 11/Mar/06
Finished up south pipe direct
reg_measures - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Ralph
Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/05 with tom knight
Gman - Solo - Mar/05 with Steve
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Mar/05 with Stuart Shaw, Mark Hudson
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Feb/05
loose snow at first, top pitch great ice
michaelb1 - AltLd O/S - Feb/05
luckyjim - AltLd - Jan/05 with J Miller
icescrew - AltLd - Mar/04 with Graham Temple
220bpm - AltLd - Feb/04 with Dave
alan moore - 2004
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/03 with John Howes
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/03
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2003 with Steve Addy
Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/02
Hidden - Lead - 07/Feb/02
Hidden - Solo - Feb/02
ashpreston - 2002
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/01
John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Feb/01 with John Short
seanyt - Lead - Feb/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/01
clams - 2nd - 2001 with UMC
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/00
Scotsken - Feb/00
abbeywall - 2000
Hidden - Lead - 2000
markharro - AltLd - 01/Feb/98 with Allan
innes - Solo - 1998
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/97
Hidden - Apr/96
nickcanute - AltLd - Mar/96 with keith bolton
nickdonohue - Lead - Mar/96 with Gwynn ?
mark-abz - AltLd - Mar/93 with Sue H
FrankW - AltLd O/S - Jan/93 with Unknown
Thawing but main pitch still frozen (and steep)
bms - AltLd - 1993 with BCS
rob from scotland - AltLd O/S - Jun/90
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - Apr/90
Mostly easy climb but in an impressive situation, finished up the South Pipe.
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Feb/89 with Paul Harding
Hidden - Solo - 13/Feb/86
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Feb/85
amcleish - 1985
got very lost coming off it
leland stamper - AltLd O/S - Feb/84 with hugh rawson, richard baynes
Hidden - Solo - 1984
Mark Kemball - Lead - 04/Feb/79 with Jeremy Bland
Hidden - 12/Mar/78
wet snow.Alan and I lead
David Smith - AltLd - Feb/76 with john page, Al Bennett
Avalanche danger too high
auldscotal - Lead dnf - Apr/75 with Paul Murton
Colin Matheson - AltLd - Jan/75 with G Macdonald