Staghorn Gully*** III
[First light in Staghorn Gully, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: First light in Staghorn Gully © JamesRoddie
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This climb is in 160 logbooks, and on 57 wishlists.

Walked in in clag. Started in clag. Solo'd up to ice pitch (team ahead of us avoided this). Solo'd rest of way up to bottom of South Pipe Direct (IV) upper section. Took this route rather than the snow bowl in Staghorn.
jamesofdeath - 2nd - 16/Mar/15 with Dave Slade

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/15

John led.
JasonV - 2nd - 14/Mar/15 with Pete, John

Moved together on good neve up to the top gully. Banked out and took 3 rope lengths to reach the top, with 1 easy angled ice step. Some sections of windslab/spindrift made for nervous progress, but solid underneath. Cornice is small at the top of Staghorn gully, but massive on adjacent climbs.
Roch - AltLd - 10/Mar/15 with Stuart Quinn

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Feb/15

Very snowy. Both on the ground and from sky. Tough going as a result. Only 1 screw placed in the entire route. Turf unfrozen even near the top (except the ridge), the temperature above freezing except the upper part of the final gully, despite the cold forecast. Moved together before reaching the final gully. 6 hours on route. Zoe's first Scottish winter route since 2 seasons ago.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/15 with Zoe Proc

Soft snow for the first 2/3 then better in the upper third, very Alpine.
jshields - AltLd - 10/Feb/15 with Mike Lea

Entry to ramp a bit tricky with loose snow and poor ice. Top pitch fairly short on good neve.
johnkeith - Solo - 26/Jan/15

Tons of snow and whiteout - nice!
Sir Stefan - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/14 with David Hayward

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Climbed upper ramp with 30m ice pitch to start which was I gave great, but hollow thudding placements and was pleased it didn't collapse on me. On ramp belays diff to find but semi pitched / moved together and hot work in the sun. N pipe was in nice nick with pleasant mix of neve and ice. A great long climb and another epic topout on Meggie.
Yourlead - AltLd - 05/Apr/13 with Paul Freeman

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/13

Direct start
DaveAtkinson - AltLd - 05/Apr/13 with jw

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Apr/13

Saintly - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Jenny, stimpey

Tim Rodgers - Solo - 09/Mar/13 with Adam Lockett, Chris Down

drsdave - 2nd - Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13

Moved together up lower gully slopes on hard packed neve, thinning to turf in a couple of places. Then each led a pitch to top out in cloud. Walked to the summit of Creag Meagaidh, then back down through 'the window'.
prwalker - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with wupert

Hidden - Solo - 27/Feb/13

martinh13 - Solo - 27/Feb/13 with Alan

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/13

Hidden - 24/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Feb/13

Moved together up the snow ramp (very stepped out) then finished up South Pipe for a more exciting finish
iksander - 23/Feb/13

Base pitch felt difficult for grade with hard brittle ice; remainder was an easy snow plod
JulesR - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Took variation ice route on left. Quite exciting due to poor and steeper ice near the top. Rest of route straightforward. Thanks to guys waiting for South pipe in easing or way through.
freemanTom - Lead - 23/Feb/13 with Amy Till

Gazlynn - AltLd - 22/Feb/13 with Andy Giff

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/13

Did Staghorn gully up to the last pitch. Exited through the South Pipe, top two pitches of South Pipe direct (IV.4). The Staghorn gully up to the pipes was grade I terrain on that day.
andrzej kierzek - Lead dnf - 22/Feb/13

300m solo snow plod roped up for the ice pitch. 3*? not this week!
Curly Rich - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with GMC Rodger

Whitters - 2nd - 21/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo dnf - 21/Feb/13

Moved together for most - barely worth pitching
arose - Lead - 19/Feb/13 with Hannah Francis

Perfect nevé throughout, though "Alpine conditions" with any snow exposed to sunlight softening rapidly.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/13

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 19/Feb/13 with Ali Rose

Direct start. Led up to the belay below the Pipes. Start pitch had good ice under a lot of rotten ice and snow, otherwise mostly a snow plod apart from one short step at the top of the gully.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Tom Starks

GlennWatson - Solo - 19/Feb/13

Direct start(good ice after cruddy start).Moved together on middle pitch to below pipes and final snow slope.Aimed for South Pipe but much rotten ice being sent down from above so finished up North Pipe(one nice ice step,good direct,rest easy snow slope)
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Alan Blanchflower

keithlambley - AltLd - 19/Feb/13 with Jeff H, Kate R

Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/13

Soloed up into the South Pipe. Ice pitch not in good condition as snow-ice was slushy. A long route which could be more difficult if lean.
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Colin

Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13

Matt1234 - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Col

abbeywall - AltLd rpt - 15/Feb/13 with K

In great condition very easy technically but sheer length means it probably still merits grade.
Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/13 with Myself!

Solo up the ramp then Nigel gave me a top rope across the exposed ridge and round to the foot of the gully. Kev led the next pitch and I led the next full 60m pitch leaving a simple snow slope to the top.
NathanP - AltLd - 12/Feb/13

lower 2/3rds snow gullies - digging uphill
alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13 with alexander carn

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13

Lots of deep snow and spin drift
jamesh - AltLd - 01/Feb/13 with Jim Unwin

Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with michael kirby

Walked into Meggie in pleasant conditions with Guide intending to look at North or South Pipe. Skirted round the direct route ice falls on soft snow and good frozen turf but increasingly heavy snowfall and large spindrift avalanches from both the Pipes suggested an escape route up the finish of the Pumpkin. High winds and near whiteout on summit made for difficult escape via the Window. My swan song day on Scottish winter climbing went out with a bang!
Ann S - 2nd dnf - 31/Jan/13 with Scott Kirkhope MIC

tim20 - 2013

Soloed first 200m, top a bit disappointing for 3*
Batt - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with James Hoyes

A really enjoyable long route followed by a nice ramble to the summit and bum slide down from the Window.
Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Simon C, Rachel B

Solo P1. Jim P2,4,6,8. Me 3,5,7. P7 was the ice bulge at top of North Pipe. Ice a bit cruddy. On rest of route protection sparse. Turf not very well frozen. Good scenary. Nice long Route for Jims 50th Birthday
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12 with Jim Symon

Route up to gulley in great condition, gulley has a river running down it. Bailed on route and abbed down.
jon59 - AltLd - 16/Jan/12

luckyjim - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Very Wet with no real ice to speak of. Shame, but how you can you be disappointed when you are able to walk out with the sun on your back.
jameshiggins - Solo - 27/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Feb/11

A long, terrifying story. Did a silly alternative start, conditions were apocalyptic. Highlights included being spindrift avalanched till I was buried while belaying off half a nut and two equalised ice axes. I would love to go back and do this climb in nicer conditions.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Tom e

The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - Feb/11 with robert taylor

Soloed most of the route then Al led the final two pitches up the chimney. Really nice route with an Alpine feel.
dansmonkeytroubles - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Alan Vincent, Steph Duits

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

Bit of a bimble. Moved together for most of it.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Becky Stedham

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/11

Retreated before final chimney
matt.woodfield - 21/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/11

awfull snow conditions, bailed off near south pipe direct
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd dnf - Jan/11 with Nik Goile

Hidden - 2011

Timo Austino - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

rossn - 2011

Lone Rider - 2011

With Ali and Caroline
davebrox - Lead - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

Great fun although a bit drippy. We finished up south pipe direct.
R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Adam

Move together up to final gully, then pitched final two pitches. Final ice step was good fun.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with Hannah Evans

Hannah Evans - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with Ken Applegate

Amazing day, topping out in the sun!
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/10 with Alex Desborough

Very busy day.
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Carol Goodall

1st Winter lead...Excellent route, great day out!
Duggers71 - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Darren Hartley

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/10

mikemartin - AltLd - 09/Feb/10

jack_eadie - AltLd - 09/Feb/10

Moved together up the ramp. First two pitches a bit unconsolidated but the rest was lovely ice especially near the top. Must buy more screws!
220bpm - AltLd rpt - 07/Feb/10 with Snowboarder

First grade 3 .Lead 2nd pitch
snowboarder - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with Mark

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Martin Coleman

riven - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Ollie Kenyon

Soloed initial gully to avoid queueing. Got a bit lost on the way down.
oliverk - AltLd - 06/Feb/10 with Joe

moved together then pitched the final gully, lots fresh snow down over hard neve made things feel a little dodgy as gear was hard to find.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/10 with Scott Becker

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/10

Ommuff - AltLd - Feb/10 with Mike Brian

lawrenceK - AltLd - 21/Jan/10

with bill from glasgow
spoony84 - Lead - Jan/10

colinthrelfall - 2010

In very mixed conditions. Like a mixture between summer and winter. Top ice pitch was an impassable waterfall. Cue hairy and long traverse round past Pumpkin to find a way to the summit.
steveP - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Paul Rowlands

A fine mixed route, thats part winter, part summer! Traversed along before last chimney due to poor snow conditions, making a bit more of a adventure. Topped out on a grade II
joe king - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with steve pettit

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/09

jam_rich - AltLd - Dec/08

Route had a lot of snow on it. One ice pitch involved in which I placed 3 ice screw runners.
Tom Row - AltLd - 12/Apr/08 with Sarah Magee

dangates - AltLd - Apr/08 with Tom Marshall

NickBrown - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/07 with Tim

Captain Solo - Solo - 11/Mar/06

Finished up south pipe direct
reg_measures - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Ralph

Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/05 with tom knight

Gman - Solo - Mar/05 with Steve

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Mar/05 with Stuart Shaw, Mark Hudson

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Feb/05

loose snow at first, top pitch great ice
michaelb1 - AltLd O/S - Feb/05

luckyjim - AltLd - Jan/05 with J Miller

icescrew - AltLd - Mar/04 with Graham Temple

220bpm - AltLd - Feb/04 with Dave

Mostly walking.
alan moore - 2004

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/03 with John Howes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/03

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2003 with Steve Addy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/02

Hidden - Lead - 07/Feb/02

Hidden - Solo - Feb/02

ashpreston - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/01

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Feb/01 with John Short

seanyt - Lead - Feb/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/01

clams - 2nd - 2001 with UMC

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/00

Scotsken - Feb/00

abbeywall - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

markharro - AltLd - 01/Feb/98 with Allan

innes - Solo - 1998

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/97

Smith42 - Apr/96

nickcanute - AltLd - Mar/96 with keith bolton

nickdonohue - Lead - Mar/96 with Gwynn ?

mark-abz - AltLd - Mar/93 with Sue H

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Jan/93 with Unknown

Thawing but main pitch still frozen (and steep)
bms - AltLd - 1993 with BCS

rob from scotland - AltLd O/S - Jun/90

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - Apr/90

Mostly easy climb but in an impressive situation, finished up the South Pipe.
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Feb/89 with Paul Harding

Hidden - Solo - 13/Feb/86

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Feb/85

amcleish - 1985

got very lost coming off it
leland stamper - AltLd O/S - Feb/84 with hugh rawson, richard baynes

Hidden - Solo - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 04/Feb/79 with Jeremy Bland

Hidden - 12/Mar/78

wet snow.Alan and I lead
uphillnow - AltLd - Feb/76 with john page, Al Bennett

Avalanche danger too high
auldscotal - Lead dnf - Apr/75 with Paul Murton

Colin Matheson - AltLd - Jan/75 with G Macdonald

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Total votes cast 54
hard IV0 of 30
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