Diadem* V 4
[Pete on Diadem, 2 kb]200m, 3 pitches. P1 Climb on right hand ice initially, then left on steep snow ice. Cut back right to belay on two rusty pegs and a big cam (30m). P2 Take the short, steep icefall direct, pulling over the bulge to the iced up rocks on the left. Move up and right on snow, through a groove to belay 10m beyond on a peg and some good nuts (40m). P3 Snow plod to the top (+ Cornice).

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Pete on Diadem © Jonny Tee 69
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/13

A slightly warm day made the neve soft, but the underlying ice was good. Used rocks, hexes and medium friends for rock protection + ice screws. Did a 30m pitch into the base of the corner, and then a 55m pitch up to a rock belay in the upper gully. Didn't quite reach the top with a 60m rope, about 10m short. Cornice was soft underneath, but good neve on the top for the pull over.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13

adie84 - 23/Feb/13

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Si Ashmore, Rob Adie

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

morsy - AltLd - 06/Mar/11 with gerhard mors

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/11

allyrocke - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Liam Ingram

Ally lead hard pitch. Probably hard IV today due to the lack of gear.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Ally Rocke

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/11

Very enjoyable route. Good solid snow ice all the way. Made a Peg belay up and left of 2nd mail pitch, small angle required.
Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Fran Coles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/11

Some steep and insecure snow/ice on P1. One steep, icy step on P2. Pretty good climb, though the wand next door looked fabulous (was too busy unfortunately). Don't know how ukc has this as grade V. Felt easy-mid IV with a couple of scary bits.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Zoe

Mike led P1 by a very steep ice start. The ice groove afterwards on the same pitch was very steep and cruddy snow ice with no gear. VI,4?! Found a very nice water ice pitch higher up which was really steep with bomber screws
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Mike Wild

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 23/Feb/10

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/10 with Pete

Jamie Simpson - 2009 with Andy Munro

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Mar/06

luckyjim - AltLd - Feb/06 with K Marsden

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - 2001

luckyjim - AltLd - Jan/00 with K Marsden

bandersnatch - Lead - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/96

nickcanute - AltLd - Mar/96 with keith bolton

Hidden - Lead - 1996

Unconsolidated snow,worrying.
David Smith - Lead - Feb/87 with Andy Bennett, Brian barker

Richard Weller - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/85 with Alan Walker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JonmapDL, Batt, gordigotama, jazzyjackson, gareth r

Voting
Total votes cast 26
hard VI0 of 9
VI0 of 9
easy VI0 of 9
hard V0 of 9
V0 of 9
easy V0 of 9
hard IV7 of 9
IV2 of 9
easy IV0 of 9
hard 50 of 9
50 of 9
easy 50 of 9
hard 41 of 9
48 of 9
easy 40 of 9
hard 30 of 9
30 of 9
easy 30 of 9
3 Stars0 of 8
2 Stars5 of 8
1 Star3 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S