UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
To the right is a clean wall that ends at a lower-off below a protruding triangular roof. Take the intricate wall above a broken start, with hard moves around the second and third bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the blank looking wall right of "Gunshot Wound to the Head". Very technical and sketchy to start

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack

Feedback

User Date Notes
Laurence Mitchell 30 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route, basically a Boulder problem followed some straight forward sport
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun route, basically a Boulder problem followed some straight forward sport
Tituscrags 2020 Show βeta
βeta: had one session in fading light, yet to complete, mystified by the crux, the rest seems very straight forward, hopefully crack it next time
Show beta
βeta: had one session in fading light, yet to complete, mystified by the crux, the rest seems very straight forward, hopefully crack it next time

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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