|The Nightfishing||E7 6b|
|Description taken from the new routes pages of http://javu.co.uk:
120ft A direct line through the 'dark heart' of Cheesegrater wall between 'Dark Angel' and 'Emmental Arete'. Roughly follows the grey/brown streak that rises from the centre of the unmistakable green area at the base of the wall. Perhaps the first truly 'modern' wall route in Britain on continuously overhanging shale. Remarkably, the climbing is excellent and sustained, and the rock sound up to half height. From thereon it becomes more friable although at no point does it become terminally loose. A large rack of cams is essential (2 sets from 0.5 to 3, supplemented by a reassuring 3.5 and 4 for a large pocket below the first crux). An insitu angle peg (and hidden bong runner just to its left) point the way at half height and give some confidence for the upper crux section. No other fixed gear. FA Dave Pickford April 05 The first ascent was made after an abseil inspection on which two pieces of fixed gear were placed. All other protection was placed on lead.|
FA Dave Pickford Apr/2005
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