UKC

Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

24m. From the ledge & tree belay on The Real World head slightly right then upto a peg (in situ 9 Aug 22). Tough moves rightwards from the peg lead to the arête, then back into the centre of the slab and finish direct. Seems bold and holds aren’t always as positive as you would like.

Abseil approach is best for this route, a large tree is almost directly above. Starting from the bottom means a chossy vegetated start that isn’t in keeping with the route.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Col Kingshott 16 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 11 Aug 22. Route cleared down to belay ledge, ab in from above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 11 Aug 22. Route cleared down to belay ledge, ab in from above.

Logged Ascents

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Repeated
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Route of Interest
Golden Delicious Variation Start

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Hoghton Quarry)

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