Rockfax Description
14m. A weird wandering route, though with some interesting climbing and more interesting positions. Climb to the top of the boulder in the back of the chimney via the crack on the right then balance right to join Right Wall. Climb to the overhang then move left before crawling up through the jammed boulders to an exit on the left. Told you it was weird. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb past the right side of the boulder near the base of the chimney and make a delicate traverse right to the crack of Right Wall. Move up to the roof and traverse back left to belay (avoids rope drag). Crawl up and out through the boulders and traverse left to the top of the climbs on the left wall of Lover's Leap. Spectacular finish.

Tony Barley, Robin Brown. Apr/1973

Alex Hallam 28/Sep/14 2nd dnf

This route went from bad to worse, no wonder no one has logged it since 1992. How does it get a star? Foot traverse was green and horrible, second traverse was green and horrible, arÍte was green... Got to an improvised stance in the back cave where Matt had retreated from the 'weird' stomach traverse. Rubbish.

rustaldo 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Note to self - don't bother climbing routes that appear green from below and also have the green kermit icon in the rockfax - regardless of dubiously awarded stars!

with Alex
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c