|Clotted Cream||E4 6a|
|21m. A thin, steep crack-climb up the headwall. Start left of the arete.|
21m. Climb a left-leaning groove to the base of the crack. The thin crack proves to be a well-protected challenge, right until the very end. © ROCKFAX
The former aid route Rainy Day (A1) provides a superb energy sapping test piece with positive holds and good protection. Belay at a detached block beneath the arete which bounds the right side of the crag. Gain the sharp arete via a groove to its left and layback up it's left side. Purists will avoid holds on Hermeda and plough on direct to meet cracks leading to the diagonal break and good gear. A stiff pull on wilting arms should gain an awkward top out, or not …
Chris Nicholson, Mark Courtier 28/Apr/1984
Ticklists: West Country Climbs.