Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
20m.
Rockfax Description
A really well-regarded pitch with interesting moves on very good rock. One of the better 6s in the region. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Devon Sport 4's - 6b's , UK Flowstone , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon 6's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| phil456 | 27 Feb, 2022 |
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βeta: As of end of Feb 2022; bolts replaced with glued ins. Very public spirited of someone, :-)) | βeta? | |
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βeta: As of end of Feb 2022; bolts replaced with glued ins. Very public spirited of someone, :-)) |
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| Masterbeta | 14 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Chain bolts slightly loose and so is the bolt before chains. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Chain bolts slightly loose and so is the bolt before chains. |
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| Intothevoid? | 5 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Trundled a small loose flake at the top, no affect on difficulty, several other jugs in the vicinity! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Trundled a small loose flake at the top, no affect on difficulty, several other jugs in the vicinity! |
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| Mlewis | 10 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: Left lower off finger tight. I'll try my best to take a spanner next time. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Left lower off finger tight. I'll try my best to take a spanner next time. |
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| DZamora | 8 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: One of the top bolts is a bit lose... bring a tool next time. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One of the top bolts is a bit lose... bring a tool next time. |
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| Mlewis | 8 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Bolt hanger finger tight halfway up | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolt hanger finger tight halfway up |
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| ethangrainger | 8 May, 2019 |
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βeta: One of the bolts (I think 3rd or 4th) is loose, I didn\'t have a tool to tighten it fully so it is only hand tight as of when I was there, suggest taking a wrench with you! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One of the bolts (I think 3rd or 4th) is loose, I didn't have a tool to tighten it fully so it is only hand tight as of when I was there, suggest taking a wrench with you! |
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Route of Interest
Old Man's Ladder
Grade: 6a+ S1 ***
(Berry Head Quarry)