90m, 3 pitches.
This was an onsight ascent in 1979 prior to cams or chalk and thus seemed quite bold at the time. The one ‘aid’ peg was briefly stood on. It was the first solid gear in 20m.
The climb is the true finish to The Nose and is splendidly exposed, particularly at the stance after the crux pitch. With cams, it must be a much safer and enjoyable route.
The lower Direct Route has a 5b alternative to reaching the ‘Hanson Cab’ stance. This was also climbed by the same party in 1979 and given 5a as a better (non-grassy) alternative.
The climb is the true finish to The Nose and is splendidly exposed, particularly at the stance after the crux pitch. With cams, it must be a much safer and enjoyable route.
The lower Direct Route has a 5b alternative to reaching the ‘Hanson Cab’ stance. This was also climbed by the same party in 1979 and given 5a as a better (non-grassy) alternative.
John Mackenzie and David Gilbert 10/Jun/1979.
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Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
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Route of Interest
Gulls Just Wanna Have Fun
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Rubha na Leacaig)