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This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.
My advice from (observing French guides on the route)...
1.Don't do the start described in the Laroche/Lelong guide book. At present (Aug 2012) the rimaye is very fragile. Do the direct start described in the Lindsay Griffen guide book.
(but still have a look at the Laroche/Lelong guide as it has useful topos).
2. Don't use the bolted descent described in the Laroche/Lelong guide book - it crosses some very slabby ground that is very effective at snagging ropes after you have pulled them through the abseil anchor. When descending from the summit start off with only the weaker climber abseiling, the stronger climber can prevent the rope jamming by not abseiling and instead down climbing pitches of around British Severe. When you start to descend the harder pitches, use insitu slings (with maillions) to abseil back down the route you climbed, until you reach the bottom of the direct start. The direct start is steeper and less likely to snag your ropes in descent. Oceanic - 01/Aug/12
Weather was coming in and had to catch telecabin from Helbronner back to the Midi station. Did 6 pitches and 3 abs back down. Good route, recommended. Andy Hewison - 2nd dnf - 24/Jul/12 with Vince, Fred
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with steve
guy757 - 22/Aug/11
Really nice rock route, amazing granite cracks and slabs. geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11
davidmckeown - AltLd O/S - Jul/11
davidmckeown - AltLd O/S - Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/10
First big rock route, consequently, it took a while. A very rushed descent wasn't quick enough, we missed the last lift and slept in the toilets after being given a free cup of coffee and couple of blankets by the staff, very kind :) AMarchant - 09/Jul/10 with Ally Hurst, Stu Air
tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with phillip belcher
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
Diggler - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/08 with craig
Hidden - 2008
Joubert - Jul/07
Hidden - Jun/03
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/91
garywalker147 - 1986
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - Aug/83 with tim wright
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kurtc, Hidden, Hidden, Alexandre Buisse |