The Overhanging Crack*** E2 5c
[Madcap James, 2 kb]A classic test-piece, the wide awkward exit stops many attempts dead in their tracks. © ROCKFAX

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Photo: Madcap James © Lawrie Brand
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This climb is in 174 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

really hard. Need to improve my overhanging baggy hand/fist jamming technique.
nigel pearson - Lead dog - 09/Nov/14 with Robin

robertmctague - Lead - 12/Oct/14 with Sam

Andrew Nelson - 10/Oct/14

marshallb93 - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14

AxelC - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/14

Pumpy, but fairly easy and straightforward, especially if seconding. Lovely jamming! However, it seems very devoid of pro when leading. If in doubt, a crash mat just in case would be a good thing to consider.
Victor Ivanov - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14

klipkabouter - Lead dnf - 02/Sep/14 with Johan Gausden

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Aug/14

David Stevens - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/14 with David Crofts

Finally
Craig Holden - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/14

Gah! Basically udged up it one move at a time after the half way point!
Madden - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/14 with Gabe Oliver

Tim Rodgers - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/14 with Chris Down

Macleod - Lead RP - 06/Jul/14 with kit, Mehmet, alex, dominic

jev - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14 with witold

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/14

a few falls from the top. next time clean !!!
Richard Fletcher - Lead dog - 18/Jun/14 with Ben Watson

Struggled a bit...
Michael Haywood - TR - 27/May/14 with George Miligan

peterhubbard - Lead dog - 25/May/14 with Conrad

Can't jam for toffee which didn't help. Easy then nails for a while. Have to come back to this one.
stugreen75 - 2nd dog - 10/Mar/14 with dominic jeff

Got totally shut down! One to aim for.
colin8ll - Lead dnf - 17/Nov/13 with Gemma

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/13

Blew the onsight, so worked the moves to the top. Pulled the ropes, then lead clean on the preplaced gear. Very hard to onsight, as hand/fist jams only fitted a few places in the crack.
kyaizawa - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with James Thompson, Sarah Acheson

At least I got to the top this time. Next time hopefully clean!
Craig Holden - Lead dog - 22/Sep/13

annak - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/13 with Ian Rickerby

Will did it first then abbed down and stripped it. Tough for the grade.
richiebongo - Lead β - 20/Aug/13 with emily, will roper, topher

Fell off first go, left gear in and rope clipped and made it to the top. Got to lead it for real now.
salix - Lead RP - 20/Aug/13 with Rich

yarbles - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13 with Jo

Blackthorn - 2nd - 10/Aug/13 with Ollie

ewan i - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/13 with mark duggan

Mark D - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with Ewan Irvine

fun
danimal88 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Mike Met office

Dom Cordner - Lead dnf - 31/May/13 with Sam Wimpenny

Richard Fletcher - Lead dnf - 22/May/13 with Dan Wilson

y2keable - Lead dnf - 13/Apr/13

salix - Lead dnf - 09/Jan/13 with Topher

al99 - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Joe Spoor

Matt Harle - Lead - 21/Oct/12

jev - Lead dog - 07/Oct/12 with Ruslan, HWUMC

jev - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with Ruslan, HWUMC

Peter Reynolds - Lead dog - 30/Sep/12 with charlotte simmons

Craig Holden - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/12 with Tim schutz

Matt Harle - 2nd - 28/Sep/12

Great route, peeled off on the top out and met my belayer at the bottom! Got it 2nd time round, a great route. High in the grade, 6a maybe??
williamsd79 - Lead dog - 18/Aug/12

wet at top
mwatson - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/12

barni - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/12

ushi - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Marshall

tomB - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - Lead dog - 02/Jun/12 with Tom Baker

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/12

Adrianw - 2nd dnf - 22/May/12 with Neil Morbey

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/May/12

SUCCESS!
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Sam

got too tired on first attempt, will be back!
radioshed - Lead dog - 18/Mar/12

barni - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/12 with Tapper

Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

so painful
Paul Tanner - 2nd dog - 2012

Hidden - AltLd dog - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11

i suck at jamming.
Bill Lawrence - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/11 with Harry

got this first attempt this time round, having tried it on the EUMC trip two years previously. :)
JamieSparkes - Lead β - 01/Oct/11 with Claire Holland

llamaglama - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Jam

Sooo close. One fall, bugger!
petegunn - Lead - 25/Sep/11 with Tom, Davina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/11

Two Cams Tom - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/11 with petegunn

Went about as well as expected. Not very.
JLS - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/11 with Jacqui

Need more crack practice. Tried it twice and still failed.
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/11

rgd1977 - TR dog - 11/Sep/11

beckybray1 - TR dog - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/11

freaking amazing!, had to take a rest midway up the crack after trying unsuccesfully hand jam, switched to arm bars and lay backing and got it fairly smooth, top out was class i love slopers!
Ginger McGrath - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11 with emily roo

AGoodi - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/11 with James Yip

As brutal as expected. Laybacking seemed easier than trying to jam.
Liam Ingram - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/11 with Fergus Cuthill

Fergus Cuthill - Lead dog - 29/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Went pretty steadily. Employed some extremely old skool jamming tactics and chucked some heavy metalware in.... Tenuous at the top!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

RossT - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Alan, Chris

oliverk - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/11 with Dan, Ian

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/11

Gruesome. Cams get in the way of the arms. With small hands feels at least E4.
Ian Jones - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11 with Major Martin Stephens, Dan Whaley, Oliver Kenyon

Nails. I'll be back.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/11 with Drew

James Rolf - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/11 with Jordan Phethean, Matthew Keeves

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Laura D

Not sure if I had done this without a rest before. A good battle today. Slowly getting better at jamming.
gforce - Lead rpt - 28/May/11 with James

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/11

stupid top bit, ace route
robertmichaeladams - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11

ugh
wence - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11 with Rob

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Mar/11

dont know why i though id get it today after no training but jumped on anyway only to be spat off, fuck you overhanging crack, you cunt.
sneaks - Lead dnf - 23/Mar/11 with janey

mr_nsglover - Lead dog - Mar/11

Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 27/Feb/11 with Seb

Lasma - TR dog - 27/Feb/11 with Seb, Dr Toph

backpack - 2011

Happy with performance with foyked tendons. Found start nails with only one good hand (rest). Then jammed fine but couldn't use the sidepull in the top of the crack due to hand (Fall). Got it (Jams up ascent!) from top of the holds avoiding the painful hold pulling start on the tendons! More straightfoward than i thought it would be. Bon - i'll do it again next year.
Dave Warburton - Lead dog - 24/Oct/10 with KP, DK

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/10

Viscious
jonny taylor - 2nd dog - 13/Oct/10 with Mike

Despo.
Alex Winter - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/10 with M. Gibbings

squidgebob - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/10 with John BM

jev - Lead dog - 08/Jul/10 with HWUMC

Nice to come back and get it clean (dryness helped too).
Dr Toph - Lead RP - 03/Jul/10 with Ally Hill

zoeduffin - 2nd - 24/Jun/10

Up-and-downclimbed a few times to put in gear/scope out holds, then went for it, but after falling from the top-out arms were too sore to have another go! Very hard to onsight, I'd have thought.
PeteH - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/10 with Naomi Hart

great start, but fell off from the last move, gear ripped and i broke my back! can't wait till i can get back on it and finish it off! gutted i lost the onsight!
hawkins321 - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with naomi hart

schultz - Lead RP - 18/May/10 with Andy Mitchell

clarky - Lead dnf - 15/May/10 with Karl Wood

Spat off the final moves!
sebrider - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with Chris wilson

y2keable - Lead dnf - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/10

Stonking fall, cam popped out.
y2keable - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/10

gypsy3006 - Lead O/S - 2010

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2010

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 28/Oct/09

TomKingston - Lead - 04/Oct/09

jamestheyip - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09 with Alejandro Garcia

dj_brigham05 - Lead rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Rich Clarke, Thom Simmons

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Oct/09

JamieSparkes - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09

rclarke - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/09 with tom, Dave Brigham

squidgebob - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09 with jamie

wolverine - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Len Cole

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Aug/09

Don't think you can really call my attempt at seconding `climbing'.
stuaart - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Neil Redgrave

Bloody hard!
Harry Thorpe - 2nd dog - 17/May/09 with Kieran

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jan/09

tom rookes - Lead - 2009 with nick stewart

we all had a bash, none finished, got into the crack to the bit where it goes squiggly but no luck. a project for the future for sure!
andrew sandercock - Lead dnf - 28/Dec/08 with stu and chris

Mike placed the gear on his attempt, I then followed to attempt a top out.
clive-greenwood - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - 28/Jun/08

cem - 2nd - 10/May/08 with Ian Frith

tom rookes - TR - 01/Apr/08 with nick stewart

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Mar/08

mattyork2 - Lead RP - 24/Feb/08 with Greg Sexton

mikekeswick - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with gill

westaway - Lead O/S - Jan/08

Hidden - Lead - 2008

petegunn - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

great route,fantastic moves up the crack to a gritesque finish
mikekeswick - TR RP - 03/Nov/07 with gill

pumped and slumped. classic route. A v hard onsight. I'll be back. A great project.
jazzyjackson - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/07 with Ally

AlistairB - TR dog - 20/Jul/07 with Rory

akhughes - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07

Woodiee - Lead dnf - 2007 with mike

Brown - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Unknown

shark - Lead RP - 13/Nov/05 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Nov/03

Ryan Clancy - Lead O/S - 2001 with Ben McRae

whispering nic - 2nd - Oct/99 with Al Reid

Roget - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/98

sadams - Lead - Feb/98 with John Boyle

David Ballantyne - 2nd dnf - 1998 with Andy Watmough

John Pickles - Lead β - 1998

Helluva struggle. E3/4 surely.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1994 with Emily

Won a pint off Jon for the O.S. well deserved!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 23/May/93 with Jon Sykes

kato'sdad - TR - 1992 with Bear Sports

NickJH - 2nd dog - Aug/91 with I Smith

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Jun/90

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 27/Aug/89 with Keith Bostrum

I was stuck in the off-width, off-angle upper crux, in a very undignified position when John Earl, the first ascentionist, arrived with the cream of the NMC! "Your shite, yea" commented Bob Smith (from him this counts as praise!)
allmag - Lead - 16/Jan/88

Hidden - Oct/87

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 07/Jun/81 with Pete Botterill

Hidden - 1980

Paul Clarke - 1980 with NUMC

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Voting
Total votes cast 114
hard E30 of 41
E30 of 41
easy E314 of 41
hard E211 of 41
E215 of 41
easy E21 of 41
hard E10 of 41
E10 of 41
easy E10 of 41
hard 6a0 of 37
6a1 of 37
easy 6a15 of 37
hard 5c12 of 37
5c6 of 37
easy 5c2 of 37
hard 5b1 of 37
5b0 of 37
easy 5b0 of 37
3 Stars31 of 36
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Style of ascent

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dogged
dnf