Northumberland > Bowden Doors >
 
The Overhanging Crack*** E2 5c

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[Steve on the overhanging crack, Bowden, 3 kb]A classic test-piece, the wide awkward exit stops many attempts dead in their tracks. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Steve on the overhanging crack, Bowden © Ola
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 133 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

salix - Lead dnf - 09/Jan/13 with Topher

al99 - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Joe Spoor

stonemonkey159 - Lead - 21/Oct/12

jev - Lead dog - 07/Oct/12 with Ruslan, HWUMC

jev - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with Ruslan, HWUMC

bigpapparen - Lead dog - 30/Sep/12 with charlotte simmons

Craig Holden - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/12 with Tim schutz

stonemonkey159 - 2nd - 28/Sep/12

Great route, peeled off on the top out and met my belayer at the bottom! Got it 2nd time round, a great route. High in the grade, 6a maybe??
williamsd79 - Lead dog - 18/Aug/12

wet at top
mwatson - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/12

barni - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/12

ushi - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Marshall

tomB - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - Lead dog - 02/Jun/12 with Tom Baker

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/12

Adrianw - 2nd dnf - 22/May/12 with Neil Morbey

Chris Ridgers - Lead dnf - 20/May/12 with matt

SUCCESS!
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Sam

got too tired on first attempt, will be back!
radioshed - Lead dog - 18/Mar/12

barni - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/12 with Tapper

stonemonkey159 - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

so painful
Paul Tanner - 2nd dog - 2012

Hidden - AltLd dog - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

LAlhadeff - Lead dog - 22/Oct/11 with Tara

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11

i suck at jamming.
Bill Lawrence - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/11 with Harry

got this first attempt this time round, having tried it on the EUMC trip two years previously. :)
JamieSparkes - Lead β - 01/Oct/11 with Claire

llamaglama - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Jam

Sooo close. One fall, bugger!
petegunn - Lead - 25/Sep/11 with Tom, Davina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/11

Two Cams Tom - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/11 with petegunn

Went about as well as expected. Not very.
JLS - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/11 with Jacqui

Need more crack practice. Tried it twice and still failed.
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 24/Sep/11

Craig McMahon - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/11 with Patch

rgd1977 - TR dog - 11/Sep/11

beckybray1 - TR dog - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/11

freaking amazing!, had to take a rest midway up the crack after trying unsuccesfully hand jam, switched to arm bars and lay backing and got it fairly smooth, top out was class i love slopers!
Ginger McGrath - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11 with emily roo

AGoodi - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/11 with James Yip

As brutal as expected. Laybacking seemed easier than trying to jam.
Liam Ingram - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/11 with Fergus Cuthill

Fergus Cuthill - Lead dog - 29/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Went pretty steadily. Employed some extremely old skool jamming tactics and chucked some heavy metalware in.... Tenuous at the top!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

RossT - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Alan, Chris

oliverk - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/11 with Dan, Ian

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/11

Gruesome. Cams get in the way of the arms. With small hands feels at least E4.
Ian Jones - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11 with Major Martin Stephens, Dan Whaley, Oliver Kenyon

Nails. I'll be back.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/11 with Drew

James Rolf - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/11 with Jordan Phethean, Matthew Keeves

Got to the top hold on my second attempt. Lobbed off the top after missing THE undercut. Gutted. Will get it next time
Matthew Keeves - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/11 with james_rolf

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Laura D

Not sure if I had done this without a rest before. A good battle today. Slowly getting better at jamming.
gforce - Lead rpt - 28/May/11 with James

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/11

stupid top bit, ace route
robertmichaeladams - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11

ugh
wence - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11 with Rob

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Mar/11

dont know why i though id get it today after no training but jumped on anyway only to be spat off, fuck you overhanging crack, you cunt.
sneaks - Lead dnf - 23/Mar/11 with janey

mr_nsglover - Lead dog - Mar/11

Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 27/Feb/11 with Seb

Lasma - TR dog - 27/Feb/11 with Seb, Dr Toph

backpack - 2011

Happy with performance with foyked tendons. Found start nails with only one good hand (rest). Then jammed fine but couldn't use the sidepull in the top of the crack due to hand (Fall). Got it (Jams up ascent!) from top of the holds avoiding the painful hold pulling start on the tendons! More straightfoward than i thought it would be. Bon - i'll do it again next year.
Dave Warburton - Lead dog - 24/Oct/10 with KP, DK

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/10

Viscious
jonny taylor - 2nd dog - 13/Oct/10 with Mike

Despo.
Alex Winter - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/10 with M. Gibbings

squidgebob - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/10 with John BM

jev - Lead dog - 08/Jul/10 with HWUMC

Nice to come back and get it clean (dryness helped too).
Dr Toph - Lead RP - 03/Jul/10 with Ally Hill

zoeduffin - 2nd - 24/Jun/10

Up-and-downclimbed a few times to put in gear/scope out holds, then went for it, but after falling from the top-out arms were too sore to have another go! Very hard to onsight, I'd have thought.
PeteH - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/10 with Naomi Hart

great start, but fell off from the last move, gear ripped and i broke my back! can't wait till i can get back on it and finish it off! gutted i lost the onsight!
hawkins321 - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with naomi hart

schultz - Lead RP - 18/May/10 with Andy Mitchell

clarky - Lead dnf - 15/May/10 with Karl Wood

Spat off the final moves!
sebrider - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with Chris wilson

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/10

gypsy3006 - Lead O/S - 2010

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2010

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 28/Oct/09

TomKingston - Lead - 04/Oct/09

jamestheyip - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09 with Alejandro Garcia

dj_brigham05 - Lead rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Rich Clarke, Thom Simmons

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Oct/09

JamieSparkes - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09

rclarke - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/09 with tom, Dave Brigham

squidgebob - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09 with jamie

wolverine - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Len Cole

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Aug/09

Don't think you can really call my attempt at seconding `climbing'.
stuaart - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Neil Redgrave

Bloody hard!
Harry Thorpe - 2nd dog - 17/May/09 with Kieran

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jan/09

tom rookes - Lead - 2009 with nick stewart

we all had a bash, none finished, got into the crack to the bit where it goes squiggly but no luck. a project for the future for sure!
andrew sandercock - Lead dnf - 28/Dec/08 with stu and chris

Mike placed the gear on his attempt, I then followed to attempt a top out.
clive-greenwood - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - 28/Jun/08

cem - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Ian Frith

tom rookes - TR - 01/Apr/08 with nick stewart

mattyork2 - Lead RP - 24/Feb/08 with Greg Sexton

mikekeswick - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with gill

westaway - Lead O/S - Jan/08

Hidden - Lead - 2008

petegunn - Lead - 2008

CBA - 2008

CBA - 2008

great route,fantastic moves up the crack to a gritesque finish
mikekeswick - TR RP - 03/Nov/07 with gill

pumped and slumped. classic route. A v hard onsight. I'll be back. A great project.
jazzyjackson - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/07 with Ally

AlistairB - TR dog - 20/Jul/07 with Rory

akhughes - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07

Woodiee - Lead dnf - 2007 with mike

Brown - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Unknown

shark - Lead RP - 13/Nov/05 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Nov/03

Ryan Clancy - Lead O/S - 2001 with Ben McRae

whispering nic - 2nd - Oct/99 with Al Reid

Roget - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/98

sadams - Lead - Feb/98 with John Boyle

David Ballantyne - 2nd dnf - 1998 with Andy Watmough

John Pickles - Lead β - 1998

Helluva struggle. E3/4 surely.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1994 with Emily

Won a pint off Jon for the O.S. well deserved!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 23/May/93 with Jon Sykes

kato'sdad - TR - 1992 with Bear Sports

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 27/Aug/89 with Keith Bostrum

I was stuck in the off-width, off-angle upper crux, in a very undignified position when John Earl, the first ascentionist, arrived with the cream of the NMC! "Your shite, yea" commented Bob Smith (from him this counts as praise!)
allan white - Lead - 16/Jan/88 with andrew mcguire (Mog)

Hidden - Oct/87

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/81

Hidden - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Richard Fletcher, Dan Geh, CRiddiford, Richard Alderton, Hidden, rob.s22, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, hodge192, Hidden, Kirriemuir, 80s pete, petellis, PeteH, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, andymoin, beegsyboy, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 78
hard E30 of 28
E30 of 28
easy E311 of 28
hard E25 of 28
E212 of 28
easy E20 of 28
hard E10 of 28
E10 of 28
easy E10 of 28
hard 6a0 of 24
6a0 of 24
easy 6a11 of 24
hard 5c6 of 24
5c5 of 24
easy 5c1 of 24
hard 5b1 of 24
5b0 of 24
easy 5b0 of 24
3 Stars23 of 26
2 Stars3 of 26
1 Star0 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead93 of 133 (69.9%)
Followed25 of 133 (18.8%)
Toproped7 of 133 (5.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 133 (0.8%)
Unknown7 of 133 (5.3%)

'Climbed'31 of 133 (23.3%)
clean O/S21 of 133 (15.8%)
clean β3 of 133 (2.3%)
clean rpt7 of 133 (5.3%)
clean RP6 of 133 (4.5%)
dogged31 of 133 (23.3%)
dnf34 of 133 (25.6%)