Long boggy hike in and strong gusting winds, great adventure. Down climb down the steep scree slope took longer than expected!
Lee_Meaden - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/15 with Jo Brooke
Climbed yesterday on what we were told was the best day of the year so far :)
We climbed the route in 6 pitches (4 + 6 are long scrambles)
I climbed pitches 2 and 5, with 5 being probably the best in terms of exposure/climbing.
I found Pitch 2 very short. There is basically 2 tricky moves with good gear that lead to a scramble to the base of the First Step. There is a large head height boulder, I would advise you belay before this, to the right of the wall where it is easier to pull onto. We made a route finding error here and belayed at the larger boulder. Karl had to climb a pretty steep section which was probably VS in rock boots. I tried it twice as second and fell, so took a detour and lowered to retrieve the gear. This section is clearly recogniseable as there is a strip of vegetation that runs up to overhanging rock (I think it might be the Zyta Variation??). Nightmare in boots, avoid unless you are less of a pussy than me.
Pitch 5 was great fun, probably the best of the lot. It's well protected on big holds, but when clear gives the best sense of exposure and some epic views from the top. From the top of this pitch its an enjoyable scramble to the top of Carrot Ridge. Really nice route, well worth the 3 stars. I wore boots, but would wear rock shoes if I had them.
The decent down the scree slop is not fun, I would put in the extra effort to take an alternative route.
jusmeig - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with Karl Wallace
A very enjoyable climb. We won the weather lottery for this climb. No rain, little wind and sunshine throughout.
Did this in 6 pitches. I lead pitch 1 & 3, seconded the 2nd & 5th. Pitches 4 & 6 were scrambles.
Quartzite is really great for hand holds, not so great in hiking boots even when dry.
We also made a route finding error by starting too far left on the third pitch. This resulted in me putting in two bits of gear at what I would grade HS (VS in hiking boots) before traversing to the intended route.
I'd grade the climb VD overall due to a lack of protection in some areas and some long run outs.
Karl Wallace - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/15 with jusmeig
Class mountain route
KKilroy - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/15 with claire
Irelando - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/15
mcgovern - Lead - 30/Dec/14 with Kieran, Bren, Murphy
With Andy and Tara. Not much gear on this route, first pitch is probably severe or above in winter boots (sketchy stuff!)
A few small - medium sized cams would be handy if you plan on leading it, and a few wee wires, not much cracks for gear though!
Paul Collins - Lead - 30/Dec/14
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/14
Midge hell, slog to get too, but enjoyable climb. Started in the wet with water flowing down the slab, but dried up. Midgees intolerable by the top.
chrisdevon - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/14 with Abbie
Brilliant climb. Dan's first big mountain route (my 14 y/o son). The climbing and route finding are easy on this obvious and compelling line, but some of the pitches (2) are a bit run out. Steady enough, but not the sort of place you'd want to have a wobbler. Did the whole route roped because of Dan's inexperience. It took us 5 hours and 12 pitches. "Descended" via Bencollaghduff and Maumina pass for a fantastic mountain experience. Total time from car was 11hours. [EDIT: interesting to read that a party did the route the day before. Thought that someone had been there recently as we found a fresh lettuce leaf(!) at the base of the climb :) yummy!
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 05/Aug/13 with Dan Chadfield
DanChad - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/13 with Chris Murray
Great day - began in cloud, ended in glorious sunshine with fabulous views; led the bold second, well protected 4th and the 'magnificent' 6th pitch. Descended via the scree slope, which is not too bad - not worth walking all the way round to maumima pass IMO. Still took us almost 10 hours round trip from the road.
Conor1 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Karl Connolly
karlc - AltLd - 04/Aug/13 with Conor1
Hidden - Solo - 01/Jun/13
NMM - Solo O/S - 2013
sweeney - 24/Jun/12
99bolivar - 2nd - 06/May/12 with David Hick, Tim Josephy
goatee - Lead - 2012 with sheila o conner
Wet, done with mountain boots.
Ronan O Keeffe - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Liam Fahy
goatee - 12/Aug/10
cearbhalld - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Aislinn, Tina Michels
mcrtchly - Lead O/S - May/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10
idmadden - Lead - 2010
darcan - AltLd - 2010
Hidden - 2010
rob87n - AltLd - 22/Aug/09
liamo333 - AltLd O/S - 2009
snowy owl - AltLd - 31/May/08 with Brian Quinn
ill_bill - AltLd - Jun/01
In walking boots.
pigeonjim - Solo O/S - 2001
Loved one local's description -"it's graded Diff, the crux is about Mild Severe, but it's a scramble really". When I got there I knew exactly what he meant. Great fun.
Iain Thow - Solo - 17/Nov/90
I remember this as one of the best soloing experiences of my climbing career. A beautiful route with a short section of ? Severe low down and then it's Diff or easier, on beautiful rock, particularly a steep section near top full of hidden pockets.
Gordon Stainforth - Solo - 04/Jul/76