275m, 9 pitches. Starts on a pinkish slab high up to the left of the main cliff. A fine clean route with good situations.
1. 33m Climb the slab near its left edge to a stance just below the final steepening.
2. 33m VD Move around an awkward corner to the right and climb straight up the nose on small holds to easier ground.
3. 24m The ridge is easy for 12m then steepens and a traverse is made to a grass ledge with flake belay.
4. 30m The ridge steepens towards the First Step but holds become more plentiful. Climb over some flakes bearing right and up a shallow scoop to a stance.
5. 15m Traverse below the wall into the recess on the nose and climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge. 5a. 15m Zyta Variation - Climb the slanting crack on the left wall of the recess.
6. 15m Move left along the ledge and up a chimney to easy ground.
7. 90m Scramble along the level part of the ridge to a small col, then go up easy slabs to the foot of the second step.
8. 18m Traverse left until the wall is low enough to be climbed and go right up to the foot of a shallow groove.
9. 18m Climb the groove to the top of the Second Step.Above this about 100m of easy scrambling up the Third Step leads to the top of the crag.

See also 'Classic Routes' http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1977

Alberry and Crofton, (CUMC), 1933. Zyta variation; Andre Kopczinski, 18.3.1951

Ticklists: Ireland 3 Star D-HS.


ClimberDateStyle
lucy32 05/Jun Solo
GOS 17/Apr AltLd O/S

Avoided first pitch by walk up fully on left until scramble right to good ledge. 4 on 50m rope all in hiking boots. Good route but cold. Continued on to beinn an tsaighdura before dropping carefully off side bencorrbeg. Bairbre and Bertie Hickey seconded with style while John O'Connor soloed alongside

with Jimmy Laide
kdo 28/Feb Solo rpt

In boots and sun shine, great day

Lee_Meaden 28/Sep/15 Solo O/S

Long boggy hike in and strong gusting winds, great adventure. Down climb down the steep scree slope took longer than expected!

Joe Brooke 28/Sep/15 -
jusmeig 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Climbed yesterday on what we were told was the best day of the year so far :) We climbed the route in 6 pitches (4 + 6 are long scrambles) I climbed pitches 2 and 5, with 5 being probably the best in terms of exposure/climbing. I found Pitch 2 very short. There is basically 2 tricky moves with good gear that lead to a scramble to the base of the First Step. There is a large head height boulder, I would advise you belay before this, to the right of the wall where it is easier to pull onto. We made a route finding error here and belayed at the larger boulder. Karl had to climb a pretty steep section which was probably VS in rock boots. I tried it twice as second and fell, so took a detour and lowered to retrieve the gear. This section is clearly recogniseable as there is a strip of vegetation that runs up to overhanging rock (I think it might be the Zyta Variation??). Nightmare in boots, avoid unless you are less of a pussy than me. Pitch 5 was great fun, probably the best of the lot. It's well protected on big holds, but when clear gives the best sense of exposure and some epic views from the top. From the top of this pitch its an enjoyable scramble to the top of Carrot Ridge. Really nice route, well worth the 3 stars. I wore boots, but would wear rock shoes if I had them. The decent down the scree slop is not fun, I would put in the extra effort to take an alternative route.

Karl Wallace 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

A very enjoyable climb. We won the weather lottery for this climb. No rain, little wind and sunshine throughout. Did this in 6 pitches. I lead pitch 1 & 3, seconded the 2nd & 5th. Pitches 4 & 6 were scrambles. Quartzite is really great for hand holds, not so great in hiking boots even when dry. We also made a route finding error by starting too far left on the third pitch. This resulted in me putting in two bits of gear at what I would grade HS (VS in hiking boots) before traversing to the intended route. I'd grade the climb VD overall due to a lack of protection in some areas and some long run outs.

with jusmeig
KKilroy 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Class mountain route

with claire
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
Irelando 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Duffyrm 07/Jun/15 Lead β
with Mano
Harrison90 01/May/15 Lead O/S
mcgovern 30/Dec/14 Lead
with Kieran, Bren, Murphy
Paul Collins 30/Dec/14 Lead

With Andy and Tara. Not much gear on this route, first pitch is probably severe or above in winter boots (sketchy stuff!) A few small - medium sized cams would be handy if you plan on leading it, and a few wee wires, not much cracks for gear though!

Hidden 30/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 30/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 05/Aug/13 Lead

Brilliant climb. Dan's first big mountain route (my 14 y/o son). The climbing and route finding are easy on this obvious and compelling line, but some of the pitches (2) are a bit run out. Steady enough, but not the sort of place you'd want to have a wobbler. Did the whole route roped because of Dan's inexperience. It took us 5 hours and 12 pitches. "Descended" via Bencollaghduff and Maumina pass for a fantastic mountain experience. Total time from car was 11hours. [EDIT: interesting to read that a party did the route the day before. Thought that someone had been there recently as we found a fresh lettuce leaf(!) at the base of the climb :) yummy!

DanChad 05/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Conor1 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great day - began in cloud, ended in glorious sunshine with fabulous views; led the bold second, well protected 4th and the 'magnificent' 6th pitch. Descended via the scree slope, which is not too bad - not worth walking all the way round to maumima pass IMO. Still took us almost 10 hours round trip from the road.

karlc 04/Aug/13 AltLd
with Conor1
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Solo
kdo 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Beautiful day, dry clear crisp, I lead all and Aine and Melissa did a great job coming up. Great banter

with Melissa Mariotto, Aine O'Reilly
Davidmcneill125 20/Feb/13 Lead O/S
kdo 08/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

nippy and damp but good visibility, great to get up this route. Scree slope to the edge is fine to come down as long as you stay to the edge, stay tight under the edge of the ridge.

with Benedicte Reau, Tony Barry
NMM ??/2013 Solo O/S
sweeney 24/Jun/12 -
99bolivar 06/May/12 2nd
with David Hick, Tim Josephy
goatee ??/2012 Lead
with sheila o conner
Ronan O Keeffe 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Wet, done with mountain boots.

with Liam Fahy
goatee 12/Aug/10 -
cearbhalld 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Aislinn, Tina Michels
mcrtchly ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
idmadden ??/2010 Lead
darcan ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Rob N 22/Aug/09 AltLd
liamo333 ??/2009 AltLd O/S
snowy owl 31/May/08 AltLd
with Brian Quinn
ill_bill ?/Jun/01 AltLd
pigeonjim ??/2001 Solo O/S

In walking boots.

Iain Thow 17/Nov/90 Solo

Loved one local's description -"it's graded Diff, the crux is about Mild Severe, but it's a scramble really". When I got there I knew exactly what he meant. Great fun.

Gordon Stainforth 04/Jul/76 Solo

I remember this as one of the best soloing experiences of my climbing career. A beautiful route with a short section of ? Severe low down and then it's Diff or easier, on beautiful rock, particularly a steep section near top full of hidden pockets.

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