300m, 6 pitches. Follows the original J M Edwards route, climbing the initial corner (summer 5B) via the R. wall, then rejoining the main gully at the crux bulge. Easily up the remainder of the gully to the summit. It is possible to aid the crux if ice/snow is insufficient or poor.
Sean Kelly + ano Feb/1971
In Summer E1 5b: Serious if it starts to rain during the ascent. Falko - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/77 with Al W.
Probable first ascent. Partner was found from Humphrey's Bunkhouse. Smiler Cuthberson had just backed off it before out ascent. Some ice and deep powder! Repeated with Bob Milward in Feb 1976 Sean Kelly - Lead - Feb/71 with name unknown
Users with this climb on their wishlist are: Templeton Adams