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American Dream*** E1 5b

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[American Dream, E1, 5B, Zawn Kellys, 3 kb]A great route set in a beautiful cove. High in the grade. Start left of a massive chimney at a small corner. 40m. Climb the corner to a ledge. Move up slightly left and then rightwards to a prominent right-facing flake-crack. Climb the flake-crack past a small overhang and then on to below another overhang. Climb the steep left-hand crack above the overhang and its continuation to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: American Dream, E1, 5B, Zawn Kellys © Brian H
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This climb is in 32 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Self-sandbagged by recalling the rockfax description of climbing the left-hand crack above the top roof. There is a crack out of the left end of the roof which seemed to me the natural line but pulls onto a 25' gearless pebbledash slab top-out. Started up this but quickly reverted to pulling out on ab rope as holds started crumbling under my fingers - not a 3* experience! Having re-read the topo the route pulls over right of the vague arete and follows what looks like a steep layback crack. Quite beside this I'd have to say the rock quality up to that point isn't above suspicion either - variety of crumbling footholds and hollow rock in places.
Justin T - Lead - 19/Apr/14 with Nancy

Brilliant, just keeps on giving.
gripped01 - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with Alex Tomczynski

Best pitch of its standard on Cornish granite?
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Purple Sue

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Colin

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Chris

Top class. Favourite route of the two week West Country fest, thus far!! Steep but steady at E1, great gear and awesome moves & situations
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Got a third of the way up when a huge wave came in which lifted Mike off his feet (luckily the belay nut held him) and the ropes were swept into a kelp-tangled knot around various boulders. Given the situation and given that this was only 15 minutes after low tide we decided to abandon the attempt but I will return when the sea is calmer as this is a super route.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

We suspect Sir Roger went way off route thus creating a * E3! Only the most blatantly obvious line on the coast.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Major Daniel Moore, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/10 with James Raitt

Ashley Hold - 2nd - Sep/09 with Nick Donahue

Matt Vigg - 2008

Rob Kennard - 2007

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/00

cem - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/00 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Apr/96

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Sep/95

cam1401 - 2nd - May/95 with Andy Clark

Mark Kemball - Lead - 27/Jul/94 with Matt Vigg

GAtkins - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/93 with Jonny Baker

Roget - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/93 with jon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/90

Mike Owen - 28/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
islandlynx, Alan100, Hidden, johnpr, Master Chief, arandall, Hidden, Calder, Dilwat, nickstephens, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 15
hard E20 of 5
E20 of 5
easy E20 of 5
hard E11 of 5
E14 of 5
easy E10 of 5
hard HVS0 of 5
HVS0 of 5
easy HVS0 of 5
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5b1 of 5
5b4 of 5
easy 5b0 of 5
hard 5a0 of 5
5a0 of 5
easy 5a0 of 5
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent

Lead17 of 32 (53.1%)
Followed11 of 32 (34.4%)
Unknown4 of 32 (12.5%)

'Climbed'11 of 32 (34.4%)
clean O/S18 of 32 (56.2%)
dogged1 of 32 (3.1%)
dnf2 of 32 (6.2%)