Rockfax Description
A great route set in a beautiful cove. High in the grade. Start left of a massive chimney at a small corner.
40m. Climb the corner to a ledge. Move up slightly left and then rightwards to a prominent right-facing flake-crack. Climb the flake-crack past a small overhang and then on to below another overhang. Climb the steep left-hand crack above the overhang and its continuation to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Dilwat 02/Oct Lead O/S


with Dave P
Hidden 05/Sep Lead O/S
NickJH 06/Aug Lead O/S
with Andy Dunhill
ferdia 05/Jul 2nd
with Misha
Misha 05/Jul Lead O/S

Good line, good climbing, good gear and pretty steady - didn't think it was top of the grade as per Rockfax. A few deals bobbing around and a lovely spot.

with Ferdia
alastairbegley 06/Apr Lead O/S

route was outstanding, 40m of sustained, well protected and interesting climbing. One of my top routes. Felt like standard E1 to me.

Slick 06/Apr 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim M 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 15/Jun/14 2nd
Justin T 19/Apr/14 Lead

Self-sandbagged by recalling the rockfax description of climbing the left-hand crack above the top roof. There is a crack out of the left end of the roof which seemed to me the natural line but pulls onto a 25' gearless pebbledash slab top-out. Started up this but quickly reverted to pulling out on ab rope as holds started crumbling under my fingers - not a 3* experience! Having re-read the topo the route pulls over right of the vague arete and follows what looks like a steep layback crack. Quite beside this I'd have to say the rock quality up to that point isn't above suspicion either - variety of crumbling footholds and hollow rock in places.

with Nancy
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
gripped01 25/Aug/13 Lead

Brilliant, just keeps on giving.

with Alex Tomczynski
Owen W-G 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Best pitch of its standard on Cornish granite?

Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2013 2nd O/S
with Colin
Jim Slater 04/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Cragrat Rich 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Top class. Favourite route of the two week West Country fest, thus far!! Steep but steady at E1, great gear and awesome moves & situations

Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead

Excellent pitch

with Laura
Steve Waters, Mynydd 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Got a third of the way up when a huge wave came in which lifted Mike off his feet (luckily the belay nut held him) and the ropes were swept into a kelp-tangled knot around various boulders. Given the situation and given that this was only 15 minutes after low tide we decided to abandon the attempt but I will return when the sea is calmer as this is a super route.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd
Ian Jones 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S

We suspect Sir Roger went way off route thus creating a * E3! Only the most blatantly obvious line on the coast.

with Major Daniel Moore, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Marti999 23/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with James Raitt
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/09 2nd
with Nick Donahue
nickdonohue ?/Sep/09 Lead

a superb climb, on the best E1s I've done... quite tidal so make sure to maximise your time (Ash was anxiously perched on a boulder & just avoided wet feet!)

with Ashley Hold
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S


with Laura
Hidden 09/Apr/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/00 Lead O/S
cem 23/Apr/00 2nd
bullybones ??/2000 Lead
lost.arrow 26/Apr/97 Lead
with Julie Bond
timbanton ?/Apr/96 -
Hidden 01/Sep/95 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/95 2nd
Mark Kemball 27/Jul/94 Lead
with Matt Vigg
GAtkins 10/Oct/93 2nd O/S
with Jonny Baker
Roget 18/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
Mike Owen 28/Aug/89 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 21/May/89 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Bob Peters, Alex the Alex, Graham Booth, hutchay, Hidden, manbat, Nevil, islandlynx, Alan100, Hidden, johnpr, Master Chief, arandall, Hidden, Calder, Dilwat, nickstephens, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set