American Dream*** E1 5b
[American Dream, E1, 5B, Zawn Kellys, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great route set in a beautiful cove. High in the grade. Start left of a massive chimney at a small corner.
40m. Climb the corner to a ledge. Move up slightly left and then rightwards to a prominent right-facing flake-crack. Climb the flake-crack past a small overhang and then on to below another overhang. Climb the steep left-hand crack above the overhang and its continuation to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: American Dream, E1, 5B, Zawn Kellys © Brian H
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This climb is in 39 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

route was outstanding, 40m of sustained, well protected and interesting climbing. One of my top routes. Felt like standard E1 to me.
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - 2nd - 06/Apr/15 with Alastair Begley

Hidden - 2015

Tim M - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 15/Jun/14 with cheesesarnie

Self-sandbagged by recalling the rockfax description of climbing the left-hand crack above the top roof. There is a crack out of the left end of the roof which seemed to me the natural line but pulls onto a 25' gearless pebbledash slab top-out. Started up this but quickly reverted to pulling out on ab rope as holds started crumbling under my fingers - not a 3* experience! Having re-read the topo the route pulls over right of the vague arete and follows what looks like a steep layback crack. Quite beside this I'd have to say the rock quality up to that point isn't above suspicion either - variety of crumbling footholds and hollow rock in places.
Justin T - Lead - 19/Apr/14 with Nancy

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Apr/14

Brilliant, just keeps on giving.
gripped01 - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with Alex Tomczynski

Best pitch of its standard on Cornish granite?
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Purple Sue

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Colin

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Chris Hindley

Top class. Favourite route of the two week West Country fest, thus far!! Steep but steady at E1, great gear and awesome moves & situations
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Excellent pitch
Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

Got a third of the way up when a huge wave came in which lifted Mike off his feet (luckily the belay nut held him) and the ropes were swept into a kelp-tangled knot around various boulders. Given the situation and given that this was only 15 minutes after low tide we decided to abandon the attempt but I will return when the sea is calmer as this is a super route.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

We suspect Sir Roger went way off route thus creating a * E3! Only the most blatantly obvious line on the coast.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Major Daniel Moore, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/10 with James Raitt

Ashley Hold - 2nd - Sep/09 with Nick Donahue

a superb climb, on the best E1s I've done... quite tidal so make sure to maximise your time (Ash was anxiously perched on a boulder & just avoided wet feet!)
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/09 with Ashley Hold

Matt Vigg - 2008

Rob Kennard - 2007

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/00

cem - 2nd - 23/Apr/00 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Apr/96

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Sep/95

Hidden - 2nd - May/95

Mark Kemball - Lead - 27/Jul/94 with Matt Vigg

GAtkins - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/93 with Jonny Baker

Roget - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/93 with jon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/90

Mike Owen - 28/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Graham Booth, hutchay, manbat, islandlynx, Alan100, johnpr, Master Chief, arandall, Calder, Dilwat, nickstephens, Steve Waters, Mynydd

Total votes cast 24
hard E20 of 8
E20 of 8
easy E20 of 8
hard E12 of 8
E16 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
hard 5b2 of 8
5b6 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
3 Stars7 of 8
2 Stars1 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S