UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Start of 'Fings Ain't What They Used to Be'. Start halfway across the roof on two good undercuts with feet on roof long reach to obvious polished (very polished) hold continuing up the staggered crackline finishing at the leftward slanting crackline

Ticklists

Wanna Be Wad - Best of South Wales Bouldering

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Voting
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Watchtower

Grade: f6A ***
(Ynys Mond Boulder)

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