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First Leaning Groove** HVS 5a

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[Dan Varian on The First Leaning Groove, Bowden Doors., 3 kb]Climb the right-hand groove - the flake out right is used by most - then make bold moves to better holds and a steep finish. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Dan Varian on The First Leaning Groove, Bowden Doors. © Russell Lovett
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 162 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

samwillo - Lead - 11/Mar/14 with Malin Kvist

malinkvist - 2nd - 11/Mar/14

a13x - Lead - 19/Feb/14 with Jessie Harris

Hard moves without the flake for hands (used it for feet only), with ok gear. Felt soft E1??
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/13 with Kate Dean

alexm198 - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with James Thompson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/13

dakidunn - 2nd - 23/Aug/13 with John Armstrong

Gatley - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/13

smithjmw46 - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Tim Hakim

ewan i - 2nd β - 24/Jun/13

Klingon - 2nd - 24/Jun/13 with Ewan, Capt Kirk

Dr Toph - Solo rpt - 17/Feb/13

SamWimpenny - Solo O/S - 2013

straight up the wall laybacking to stand on the flake. bold climbing on lead, thin feet at times
son of thor - 2nd - 2013

Only used flake to stand on. Then run out.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 21/Oct/12 with Amy Till

pretty awkward, committing move with some not massively inspiring protection
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Claire

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with James Franklin

Baffled Fiona then I took over.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Fiona Mellor

The Big Sender - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/12 with robert taylor

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/12

SPD224 - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Conor Shepherd

naffan - Solo O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Joanna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

yarbles - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Jo

redshapedfriday - TR RP - 10/Jun/12 with jess

JessicaBell - TR dog - 10/Jun/12 with Nicola Benton

ushi - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Marshall

Neil Mackenzie - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12 with Ross, Fox Lu

jason - 2nd - 06/May/12 with moose ridd, mike

mikecollins - Lead - 06/May/12 with jason, moose ridd

moose ridd - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Mike Collins, Jason

tricky and bold feeling
Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Dave West

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12

Russell Birkett - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/12

Bisteris - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Dan Short

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/12

RossKirtley - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/12

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 28/Jan/12 with Richard Gage

arrang - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Nov/11

redshapedfriday - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead - 30/Oct/11

simon_D - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Fiend

samoliver01 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11

andybirtwistle - Solo - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/11

Hidden - 26/Jun/11

jonny taylor - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/11 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/11

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 03/Apr/11 with Bethan, Bengt

BethanWhite - 2nd - 03/Apr/11 with Rob

bengt - 2nd RP - 03/Apr/11 with Rob

Hidden - 2011

backpack - 2011

Hidden - 2nd RP - 07/Sep/10

Mark D - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Laurence Everitt

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Mark D

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/10

jamestheyip - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Alejandro Garcia

daWalt - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/10 with The Purple Pimpernel

Surprisingly difficult.
Ian Jones - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Walter Robison

Stiff and fingery for an HVS
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/10

treejamie - AltLd dnf - 20/Jun/10

NaomiHart - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ursula, Peter Hart

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Naomi Hart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10

dts - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Andy Taylor

alisonsmigova - 2nd - 29/May/10

Delicate climbing
David Bulley - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Nathan Gibson

mantle87 - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

oliwarlow - Lead - 02/Apr/10 with Ian

gypsy3006 - Lead O/S - 2010

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2010

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

scott gibson - 2010

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 18/Oct/09

Sketchy Solo!!
crazydiamond - Solo O/S - 17/Oct/09

petegunn - Lead - 04/Oct/09 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/09

andybroadway - Lead β - 27/Sep/09 with Heike Puchan

dj_brigham05 - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/09

Timo Austino - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with mad Len

Lawrie Brand - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Dougie Harvey

dougs1232 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Lawrie Brand

Didn't get the long reach to the break first time. A day of failure.
stuaart - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Neil Redgrave

that move must be 5b!
duncman - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/09

andrew sandercock - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with tony

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 27/May/09 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - Lead β - 27/May/09

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 23/May/09

david morse - 2nd - 23/May/09 with andy+ben

chris sm - Lead rpt - 22/May/09 with Pippa Froggatt

First HVS, thought it was VS
Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 17/May/09 with Cookie

pwrenwick - 2nd - 16/May/09 with jonny taylor

oliwarlow - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Ian

odox - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Oli Warlow

Really enjoyed this route - very technical moves in the middle. Had to rest on the rope while I figured it out. Damn it!! Good lead by Sambo :)
iceicebaby - 2nd - 29/Apr/09 with Sam Wood

Some nice delicate moves in the middle
jonny taylor - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Paul

petellis - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Cleric James Koran

Puzzling then bold.
jkarran - Lead - 18/Apr/09 with Pete

CalumC - Solo O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Andy and Charlie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - Mar/09

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Feb/09

technical and small crimps - a delight as the top is not as intimdating when you get there
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/09 with Jim Stanton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/08

Hetley - 2nd - 14/Nov/08 with Will Tarran

A tough but awesome move to the break, took a while to work out.
andymoin - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Neil Mackenzie, Warren

adw07 - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Andy and Neil

Neil Mackenzie - 2nd - 05/Oct/08 with Andy

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - 30/Jun/08

Spent a good while standing on the flake working out the next couple of moves. Surely 5b?
Andy Moles - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/08 with -

jonnie3430 - Lead - 10/Feb/08 with Ewan and Fraser

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/07

a great sequence and a great route
jazzyjackson - Lead β - 30/Sep/07 with Ally

decs - 2nd - 30/Sep/07 with Dan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/07

gforce - Solo - 15/Sep/07 with The beach boys

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/07

gordon henderson - 25/Aug/07

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with sean

Strenuous and hard work. Starting from the right hand flake is cheating ;-)
climbingpixie - 2nd - 08/Jul/07 with James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07

collingwood - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/06 with Gaz Wilson and Matt Rhodes

collingwood - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06 with Gaz Wilson and Matt Rhodes

GPN - 2nd - Nov/06 with Paul James

ed woods - 2nd - 01/Oct/06 with Marshall

snowy owl - 2nd - 16/Sep/06 with Adrian Gude

gaz.marshall - 2006

Dave Kerr - Solo - 30/Apr/05

barney_edin - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/05

whispering nic - Solo - Apr/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/04

Roget - Solo rpt - 18/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/02

Ryan Clancy - Lead O/S - 2001 with Ben McRae

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/00

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 17/May/00 with Claire Graham

jonka - 2000

Beardyman - 2000

chris sm - 2nd O/S - Jul/97

akamini - Lead - Jul/97

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1995 with Karen Ghiselli

jonesieboy - Jun/94

Hidden - 2nd - 1994

William Robertson - Solo O/S - 1994 with Emily

Tony Little - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/91

Roget - 2nd O/S - Aug/89 with jim

Mark Kemball - Solo - 03/May/80

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matt Poole, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard E10 of 30
E11 of 30
easy E14 of 30
hard HVS16 of 30
HVS9 of 30
easy HVS0 of 30
hard VS0 of 30
VS0 of 30
easy VS0 of 30
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b20 of 29
hard 5a6 of 29
5a3 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
hard 4c0 of 29
4c0 of 29
easy 4c0 of 29
3 Stars16 of 27
2 Stars8 of 27
1 Star3 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed20 of 162 (12.3%)
Lead70 of 162 (43.2%)
Followed57 of 162 (35.2%)
Toproped2 of 162 (1.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 162 (0.6%)
Unknown12 of 162 (7.4%)

'Climbed'66 of 162 (40.7%)
clean O/S75 of 162 (46.3%)
clean β5 of 162 (3.1%)
clean rpt7 of 162 (4.3%)
clean RP3 of 162 (1.9%)
dogged4 of 162 (2.5%)
dnf2 of 162 (1.2%)