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Great Buttress Arete*** E1 5b

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[Great Buttress Arete E1 5b, Wharncliffe, 2 kb]12m. A fine climb up the long arete. A tape can be placed over a flake early on for protection, and above this the route gives sustained and interesting climbing. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Crew early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Great Buttress Arete E1 5b, Wharncliffe © Chris Craggs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 271 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

GlenCoco - 16/Aug/14

Seconded this 4 years ago, delighted to lead it now, a great climb that just keeps on coming.
Andrew Lodge - Lead rpt - 16/Jul/14 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/14

MTL - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/14 with Donnie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/14

Lukem6 - Lead β - 03/Jul/14 with james "sasquatch"

papashango - 2nd - 01/Jul/14 with Martin

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Julian

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/14

Hidden - Lead β - 19/May/14

Jake fell twice, had a fag n then cruised it.. best lead. So far.
adi bryant - 2nd rpt - 11/May/14 with Jake

Fell twice near the top on one OF the scary moves above your gear came back down had a fag cleared my head and the cruised it! I stuck to the arÍte, the moving boulder is a nice surprise when you haven't climbed this route before!
Spongeclimber - Lead β - 11/May/14

Sink41 - Lead rpt - 04/May/14

David_Gledson - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/14 with Alan

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/14

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 21/Apr/14 with al

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Chris Pembroke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

Lukem6 - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Mike

mikestr555 - TR - 16/Feb/14

adi bryant - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14 with Molly-George

very good climbing, felt hard only because I couldn't feel any of my fingers. mounting the wobble block on top was scary, get like it was coming back down the crag!
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/13

Lovely route great climbing. Was being blown off it by strong wind and had numb fingers, would be worth repeating in more enjoyable conditions.
alp79 - 2nd O/S - 14/Dec/13 with Jonny Ashton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

First E1. 400th Logged Climb.
BenedictIEP - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13 with Sam Carey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/13

Wet at the top so tip-toed direct up the arete at the end.
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/13 with HuwGoodal

On Sophie's gear to minimise faff. Not very 5b or particularly bold, but very good.
victim of mathematics - Lead β - 20/Sep/13 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Colin Angus

mbxcs1 - 2nd - 08/Sep/13

Guy lead, had rope lowered just below block. Strayed onto Just a Minute at finish
tomjemmett - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Guy Oliver, John Ridley

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/13

Deezel65 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Gareth Hoosen

Fun climb, stuck to arete.
hlegge - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Dan Gyi

Fragmod - Lead - 08/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13

the power - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13 with paul29uk

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13

Lots of decent gear and reasonable rests. A number of static moves needed. Low end E1. Great climb
antdav - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Lorraine

grubes - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Tom Stapleton

ruairidhwad - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with SOC

Anne Gumbley - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with Ruairidh Wadsworth

Darron - 30/Jun/13

Enjoyable climb. Nice crux move at the top and just enough protection. Use small cams.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Andrew Deacon

DBoothroyd - Lead - 18/Jun/13 with Joe Mortimer

henry.jeffreys - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Dan Geh

Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Henry

AMJ098 - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Lizzie Berg

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/13

dr_botnik - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/13 with Phil Taylor

seconded then lead not 100percent i was online on last moves but stayed on face right of arete
the power - Lead RP - 06/Apr/13 with rob

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Carter - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Nigel Bond - TR - 19/Oct/12 with Bern Hardman

didn't manage crux reach at top, had to pull right onto face
dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/12 with Paul Hy, Graham, Phil Taylor

jwpil - Lead β - 12/Oct/12 with Deacon

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Rosh

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Duncan Cundy, Phil Cundy

Spent ages weighing up the top crux section before I found the side-pull. Hope it's on route. Wasn't keen on stepping left around the arete to finish. Thoroughly enjoyed this route and it felt safe, but I didn't have the small cams left to protect the final section as well as I would have liked.
treg - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12 with Dan Osbaldeston

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Anna

Well protected, which I did not expect and the best route I've done at the crag. Possibly *** The capping block moves: A cam underneath it should not be trusted
Cake - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Howard, John Cooper

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with Andrew

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 20/May/12 with john Bramwell

Ahab - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

Jill's lead
joemallia - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

Nice climb rocking block at the top left us both a little unnerved
smokeyj - Lead - 07/May/12 with Spoons

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Guy Wilson - 27/Mar/12 with Plum

mark20 - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Feb/12

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 15/Feb/12 with bwestwood

bwestwood - 2nd - 15/Feb/12

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

Liam Dangerfield - Lead O/S - 2012

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2012

admackie - 2012

slacky - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Gary, Nick Taylor

Easy for the grade
tgeh - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Freshers

Ed F - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/11

Drew M - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11

adam 24 - 29/Oct/11

very nice climb. the flake is probably ok and can be backed up if you look around. the top crux doesn't need to be that bold if you're carrying the right gear - i wasn't :-(
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/11 with Tony Moody

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/11

Coel Hellier - Lead - 29/Aug/11

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/11 with Trevor

Had to have a go after Graeme had led it, lovely route, will lead next time I'm there.
jeffsheard - TR - 07/Jul/11 with Graeme PCC

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/11 with David Brown, Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/11

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 25/Jun/11 with peter sargent

On Paul's gear
Katya - Lead - 06/Jun/11 with Paul Phillips

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with Katya Sourkova

Chris M - Lead - 21/May/11 with Tommy B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/11

Did it in the pitch dark
Andrew Lodge - 2nd - 09/May/11 with Steve

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 10/Apr/11

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 02/Apr/11 with Mark Williams

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/11

mwatson - 2011

batterj2 - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Steve Artus

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/10

jshields - Lead - 25/Sep/10 with Ed James

MeMeMe - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with Tim

Stood on the rocking block at the top and almost fell off - ha, ha!!
tigertim - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Mike McEwen

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Anna

petellis - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Cleric James Koran

Nice, well protected with sustained interest
jkarran - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Pete

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/10

max_chan - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Phil PCC

crazy pierre - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Rory Juss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Phill Mitch - 2nd rpt - 23/Jun/10 with mick

pog100 - 2nd - 17/Jun/10 with Keith Tilley

riven - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Pete

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Anna

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Andy

petellis - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Joe Barker

Tez29 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Ivan

Hidden - TR - 22/May/10

shkinitrep - 2nd - 18/May/10 with luke preston

first proper E1 felt ok tho!!
LukeP LCC - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with shkinitrep

cem - Lead rpt - 08/May/10 with Dave Amos

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/May/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Apr/10

First E1 lead and it was a clean onsight!! :)
nick ferro - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Jonathan Aylwin

wolverine - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Kate Bush

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Ray Sharples

Phill Mitch - 2nd - 11/Mar/10 with gaz

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2010 with Burmese Phil

Boy - Nov/09 with Nige Kershaw

had to lower off last section of climb, fingers too numb, couldn't feel the holds. will be back!!!!!!
doogstrue - 2nd dnf - 18/Oct/09 with andy s

Ended up resting on rope to remove gear which I still couldnt get out, Barra had to abseil down to retrieve
staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Barra

A bit windy, which added to the excitement. Very nice, shame it's a bit spoilt by the VS being so close. This is the third hardest E1 in PGE, which doesn't sound right - fairly standard E1.
Misha - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

Hidden - TR - 26/Sep/09

Wathch you don't trap your fingers on the wobberly block at the top..:)
gazfellows - 2nd - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Easy and well protected
simon1965 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with peakdj

fairly straight forward, and much better than expected good gear. Great route.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Jools

Great barefoot lead by tom (albeit with a bridging rest out left)
Conor1 - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/09 with Tom Parry

sweet, well protected nice moves
lithos - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/09 with pete mcdonald

Hidden - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/09

Leelogs - 2nd - 16/Jun/09 with Chris

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/09

gazbonutter - 2nd - 11/Jun/09 with Pete MacDonald

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/09 with Lisa

Finally came back to lead this! Found it relatively easy actually, just slightly worrying with gear utilising only small things! Hung around ages placing gear! Rock over onto the spike didn't feel too bad, then some trickyish climbing up to the top moves, lace the crack to the left with smallish cams and go for it. Previous time I had gone round left to finish which felt really hard, round the right it was much better. A good pocket to sidepull on the right, and stand up and reach up just below the block, scarily wobbly block so I finished off left! Promptly followed by realising I'd lost a 5 set of nuts. A great route to finish a great day! Nice to see Haydon and Alex!
Reaver2k - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/09 with Michael, Lisa, Tom and Andy

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Jules

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/09

john lynch - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/09 with rich armour

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/08 with Phil Applegate

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Sep/08

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Anna

Anna Horrox - 2nd - 27/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - TR O/S - 14/Jul/08

MeMeMe - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with PontiusPirate

Hidden - TR - 15/Jun/08

towdman - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/08 with Sue Armitage

Good lead for Graham
towdman - 2nd - 21/May/08 with Graham Armitage

Graham Armitage - Lead - 21/May/08 with towdman

jh5638 - TR O/S - 17/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Jan/08

Jim Walton - 2008

daveagriff - TR - 2008

tom169 - TR β - 17/Nov/07 with Alan (reaver2k)

Had watched tom previously when I brought him up on toprope, atleast for the final crux moves. I'm certainly not up for leading E1 quite yet if this is how they come! Did it cleanly though! Not much in the way of gear I don't think, 2 pieces, one low and 1 high. Fairly basic 4c/5a moves most of the way up then with a stonker of a 5b nearing the top! Spent a while figuring out the best sequence, eventually concluding that I just had to commit to my feet and go up for the sloping ledge. Went ok but wouldn't have liked to do it on lead. E2? Probably not but no soft touch at E1 from what I've done.
Reaver2k - TR β - 17/Nov/07 with tom169

mje1398 - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07 with John M

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/07

ieverett - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Linda Horner

bigbobbyking - 2nd O/S - Oct/07

John Kettle - 12/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/07

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Welsh Neil

Not having a good day...
Alex Thompson - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/07 with Haydn Martin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/07

adam carless - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/07 with Nick Smith - UKC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/07

Karl Wooffindin - 2nd O/S - 23/May/07 with Tom Randall

Jenko - TR - 01/May/07 with Matt Robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07

Why didnt i lead this?!
IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Big Ian

gregarding - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Donna Nichamin

Lukey B - TR O/S - Mar/07

Hidden - 2007

Bob - TR - 17/Dec/06

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/06 with Pat

with only left hand
Brown - 2nd β - 12/Oct/06 with John

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06

MeMeMe - 2nd - 09/Sep/06 with Andy

Iggy_B - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/06 with Simon Troop

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/06

colin milton - 2nd - 06/Jul/06 with fenclimb

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Jul/06

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06 with Sharon R

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/06

shark - 2nd - 18/Mar/06 with Mark Hundleby

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/06 with Arnaud Garcon

drysori - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/05

baldcoder - TR - 04/Jun/05

darren1 - 04/Jun/05

Tim W - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/05 with Darren Miller

Hidden - Lead - Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/05

Hidden - TR - 11/May/05

cem - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/05 with Sally Dipple

quite a good route expected more for some reason good sling behind the flake nice and technical moves
Alex Mason - Lead - Mar/05 with tony holdsworth

Iggy_B - Lead O/S - 2005 with Simon Troop

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2005 with wayne

NeilManley - Lead - 2005

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 2005

Chris M - 2005

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - Oct/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/04

moreno - 2nd - 13/Mar/04 with richard guest

Was going well and had great conditions. Went smoothly and is classy
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Mar/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/04

PenJD - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/03 with Tony Heron

Hidden - Lead rpt - Sep/03

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/03 with Paul

Ben lad - 24/May/03 with Unce

pauldr - Lead O/S - 2003

Daniel Armitage - Lead - 20/Sep/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/02

stevo smith - Lead RP - 07/Apr/02 with Arthur smith (Dad)

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/01

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/01

nice climb- airy delicate top
DanEm - Lead RP - May/01 with Jim Emery

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - May/01

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/01

BlueJohn - 2nd - Apr/01 with JohnnyM

The Pylon King - Lead - Jan/01 with Efua

Stone Muppet - 2001

tlr - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

martroberts - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/98

ste_d - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/98 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/97

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 11/May/96 with Pom Tim Kim

Thought it was my first E2!
BruceW - Lead O/S - Apr/96 with Keith S.

nai - Lead - 1996

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/May/95 with jon

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 09/May/93 with Andy Barker

was E25b
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/93 with Alan Holden

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/90

andy tetsill - TR - Jun/88

Pete Pozman - 2nd - 02/Sep/86 with Mark Gray

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/83

Tom V - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OliverIF, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Narked4fun, Hidden, gazdw, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, jeffsheard, RalphC, Jonathan Hall, climbingrick, nrhardy, petellis, martin48

Voting
Total votes cast 211
hard E20 of 75
E20 of 75
easy E27 of 75
hard E113 of 75
E139 of 75
easy E113 of 75
hard HVS3 of 75
HVS0 of 75
easy HVS0 of 75
hard 5c0 of 70
5c0 of 70
easy 5c0 of 70
hard 5b0 of 70
5b57 of 70
easy 5b11 of 70
hard 5a1 of 70
5a1 of 70
easy 5a0 of 70
3 Stars27 of 66
2 Stars38 of 66
1 Star1 of 66
0 Stars0 of 66
Bag of .....0 of 66
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 271 (0.7%)
Lead155 of 271 (57.2%)
Followed77 of 271 (28.4%)
Toproped17 of 271 (6.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 271 (0.4%)
Unknown19 of 271 (7.0%)

'Climbed'100 of 271 (36.9%)
clean O/S127 of 271 (46.9%)
clean β11 of 271 (4.1%)
clean rpt22 of 271 (8.1%)
clean RP4 of 271 (1.5%)
dogged5 of 271 (1.8%)
dnf2 of 271 (0.7%)