Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the long arete. A tape can be placed over a flake early on for protection, and above this the route gives sustained and interesting climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

mattlyons 15/Oct Lead O/S
with Alex
James Oakes 15/Oct Lead O/S
with Lucy Bradbury, Harry Morrish
Hidden 18/Sep Lead O/S
Natalie Berry - UKC 18/Sep 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep 2nd
cragtyke 29/Aug 2nd
with john g
BigTone 23/Aug 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug TR O/S
cem 16/Jul 2nd rpt
georgenvk 16/Jul Lead O/S
with cem
Hidden 16/Jul Lead rpt
cunijoeme 22/May Lead O/S

Scary tecknical. No6 dmm dragon in the top break

Hidden 20/May Lead O/S
scarmichael 15/May Lead O/S


K Farrell 15/May 2nd O/S

Naively thought there were loads of good E1s to try at Wharncliffe so seconded up this. How wrong I was! Really nice route!

with K McKay
K Mckay 15/May Lead O/S

Lovely route, never desperate and good gear.

MJLangley 15/May 2nd
dr_botnik 09/Apr Lead rpt

Did it twice to try different sequences on top move, it isn't much harder with a foot around left hand side of arete, but eliminating the good pocket for right hand seems pointless. Either way, good route.

Ardo 09/Apr Lead O/S

Quality route and steady away.

with Rob
Ardo 09/Apr Lead rpt

Did it again, cos Rob said I'd used the wrong holds. :-D

with Rob
the power 09/Apr Lead
with neil, rob
lanc23 07/Apr 2nd O/S
phil64 03/Apr Lead O/S
with Andy Bowman, phil baker
alexcummings95 28/Feb TR
pawel suhy 17/Oct/15 2nd β

Great route

with Adi
adi bryant 17/Oct/15 Lead rpt
alexspurling 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

First E1

nick ferro 26/Sep/15 2nd rpt

Congrats Norbu - his first "proper" E1. Following in the footsteps of a legend. ;)

Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
garywong 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Deezel65 25/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Christian Rouse, John Ganley
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
TobyA 20/Sep/15 TR O/S
with Jody
Will Mortimer 17/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Solid E1, balancey moves through spaced but good gear.

climberchristy 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

A really nice line with some good moves.

with Ben Cole
dan_o_b 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
craggyfingers 30/Aug/15 Lead
craggyfingers 30/Aug/15 -
Youngmre 29/Aug/15 TR dog
ralphio 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Henry
PaulTanton 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
jimbonfire 05/Jul/15 -
db79 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Aino's first E1. Really good lead.

sjbrook 03/Jul/15 Lead dog

Protection better than expected. Could not do the last move on the arÍte, tried numerous times with falls. in the end stepped right slightly into centre of buttress to gain height before short step back left and finish. What is the correct way? top move feels hard for 5b (not that i have done many) . Great route though, will try again.

Dave Richards 03/Jul/15 2nd dog
with sjbrook
Hidden 24/Jun/15 Lead G/U
will9911 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
JessWilliams 06/Jun/15 2nd
OliverRoss 06/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 31/May/15 Lead
Luke90 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Climbster 24/May/15 2nd rpt
with Vick, Ian
Bloke on a Rope 24/May/15 Lead O/S


with Vic, Matt
robolomassi 21/May/15 Lead O/S

very good. good gear and fun balancy moves.

with Peachey
Climbster 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ali, Vick
Vixie 10/May/15 2nd dog
with Matt
Lukem6 07/May/15 2nd rpt
The Reaper 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S
cdpuk 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Surprisingly good gear

Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/15 TR
amccann 09/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Gear was better than I expected

Jake Young 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
the power 03/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with Andy
Andy Peak 1 03/Dec/14 Lead β

on Phills gear

with phill ukc
adi bryant 30/Nov/14 2nd rpt
rurp 11/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Close to hvs 5b good gear. Tricky wet moves at the top

with bill farmer
john lynch 25/Oct/14 Lead
with chris jackson, Bethan D
chrisdjackson 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Beth, John
cem 16/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Gudge 16/Oct/14 2nd O/S


lloydellis93 17/Sep/14 Lead
dunk3607 17/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
RosieLynch ?/Sep/14 TR O/S
with James Buckley, Chris Scott, Bethan Davies, Anthony King, john lynch
aking12 ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Scott, James Buckley, Rosie Lynch, john lynch
GlenCoco 16/Aug/14 -
gmatthew 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Lodge 16/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Seconded this 4 years ago, delighted to lead it now, a great climb that just keeps on coming.

with Steve
Hidden 16/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Lukem6 03/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jul/14 2nd
rich_hw 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Julian
will9911 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead β
adi bryant 11/May/14 2nd rpt

Jake fell twice, had a fag n then cruised it.. best lead. So far.

with Jake
Spongeclimber 11/May/14 Lead β

Fell twice near the top on one OF the scary moves above your gear came back down had a fag cleared my head and the cruised it! I stuck to the arÍte, the moving boulder is a nice surprise when you haven't climbed this route before!

Sink41 04/May/14 Lead rpt
David_Gledson 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Alan
WillDoyle 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 21/Apr/14 Lead
with al
tatz45 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Pembroke
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Lukem6 16/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
mikestr555 16/Feb/14 TR
adi bryant 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 14/Dec/13 Lead O/S

very good climbing, felt hard only because I couldn't feel any of my fingers. mounting the wobble block on top was scary, get like it was coming back down the crag!

alp79 14/Dec/13 2nd O/S

Lovely route great climbing. Was being blown off it by strong wind and had numb fingers, would be worth repeating in more enjoyable conditions.

Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
BenedictIEP 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

First E1. 400th Logged Climb.

Hidden 18/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Dave Warburton 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Wet at the top so tip-toed direct up the arete at the end.

victim of mathematics 20/Sep/13 Lead β

On Sophie's gear to minimise faff. Not very 5b or particularly bold, but very good.

soph 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mbxcs1 08/Sep/13 2nd
tomjemmett 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Guy lead, had rope lowered just below block. Strayed onto Just a Minute at finish

with Guy Oliver, John Ridley
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead dog
Deezel65 08/Aug/13 2nd O/S
hlegge 08/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Fun climb, stuck to arete.

with Dan Gyi
Fragmod 08/Aug/13 Lead
DanielGyi 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Quite a lot of "getting stood up hoping holds appear" thankfully they did! Great route.

with Dom Pearce, Hamish Legge
the power 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
antdav 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lots of decent gear and reasonable rests. A number of static moves needed. Low end E1. Great climb

grubes 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ruairidhwad 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
with SOC
Anne Gumbley 30/Jun/13 2nd
with Ruairidh Wadsworth
Darron 30/Jun/13 -
Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Droyd 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Joe Mortimer
henry.jeffreys 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Henry
AMJ098 05/May/13 2nd
with Lizzie Berg
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Lead rpt
dr_botnik 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
the power 06/Apr/13 Lead RP

seconded then lead not 100percent i was online on last moves but stayed on face right of arete

with rob
RM199 05/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Carter 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 19/Oct/12 TR
with Bern Hardman
dr_botnik 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S

didn't manage crux reach at top, had to pull right onto face

jwpil 12/Oct/12 Lead β
with Deacon
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead
Matt Cooke 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Stoney Boy 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Duncan Cundy, Phil Cundy
treg 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Spent ages weighing up the top crux section before I found the side-pull. Hope it's on route. Wasn't keen on stepping left around the arete to finish. Thoroughly enjoyed this route and it felt safe, but I didn't have the small cams left to protect the final section as well as I would have liked.

with Dan Osbaldeston
deacondeacon 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
Cake 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Well protected, which I did not expect and the best route I've done at the crag. Possibly *** The capping block moves: A cam underneath it should not be trusted

with Howard, John Cooper
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/May/12 2nd rpt
Ahab 20/May/12 Lead O/S
joemallia 12/May/12 2nd rpt

Jill's lead

smokeyj 07/May/12 Lead

Nice climb rocking block at the top left us both a little unnerved

with Spoons
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Guy Wilson 27/Mar/12 -
with Plum
mark20 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/12 Lead β
pie_eater_pete 15/Feb/12 Lead
with bwestwood
bwestwood 15/Feb/12 2nd
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Liam Dangerfield ??/2012 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
admackie ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tgeh 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Easy for the grade

with Freshers
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Drew M 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
adam 24 29/Oct/11 -
adam 24 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alex@home 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S

very nice climb. the flake is probably ok and can be backed up if you look around. the top crux doesn't need to be that bold if you're carrying the right gear - i wasn't :-(

Hidden 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Coel Hellier 29/Aug/11 Lead
Jim Slater 08/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Trevor Wilson
AsleepOnBelay 07/Jul/11 TR

Had to have a go after Graeme had led it, lovely route, will lead next time I'm there.

with Graeme PCC
Graeme Hammond 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with David Brown, Jeff
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 25/Jun/11 -
Katya 06/Jun/11 Lead

On Paul's gear

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd O/S
duncana 15/May/11 2nd

Pippa's first E1 lead on grit. Great technical route. The huge top block wobbles (initially held in place by the cams Pippa placed!)

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 09/May/11 Lead
Andrew Lodge 09/May/11 2nd

Did it in the pitch dark

with Steve
pie_eater_pete 10/Apr/11 Lead
disturbed_one51 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
Anna duckett ??/2011 2nd
batterj2 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Steve Artus
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
jshields 25/Sep/10 Lead
MeMeMe 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Tim
tigertim 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Stood on the rocking block at the top and almost fell off - ha, ha!!

Marti999 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
petellis 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
jkarran 08/Aug/10 Lead

Nice, well protected with sustained interest

with Pete
Simon Davenport 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/10 Lead dnf
max_chan 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Phil PCC
crazy pierre 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 23/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with mick
pog100 17/Jun/10 2nd
with Keith Tilley
riven 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Pete
Chriswallis2 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Dave Foster 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
petellis 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Tez29 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Ivan
Hidden 22/May/10 TR
shkinitrep 18/May/10 2nd
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
cem 08/May/10 Lead rpt
with Dave Amos
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd β
nick ferro 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First E1 lead and it was a clean onsight!! :)

Mike_Hayes 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Kate Bush
markfairbank 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ray Sharples
Phill Mitch 11/Mar/10 2nd
with gaz
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
with Burmese Phil
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
doogstrue 18/Oct/09 2nd dnf

had to lower off last section of climb, fingers too numb, couldn't feel the holds. will be back!!!!!!

with andy s
staceyjg 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Ended up resting on rope to remove gear which I still couldnt get out, Barra had to abseil down to retrieve

with Barra
Misha 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S

A bit windy, which added to the excitement. Very nice, shame it's a bit spoilt by the VS being so close. This is the third hardest E1 in PGE, which doesn't sound right - fairly standard E1.

Hidden 26/Sep/09 TR
gazfellows 07/Sep/09 2nd

Wathch you don't trap your fingers on the wobberly block at the top..:)

Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
sishaw 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Easy and well protected

with peakdj
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

fairly straight forward, and much better than expected good gear. Great route.

with Jools
Conor1 20/Jul/09 2nd dog

Great barefoot lead by tom (albeit with a bridging rest out left)

with Tom Parry
lithos 17/Jun/09 Lead O/S

sweet, well protected nice moves

Hidden 16/Jun/09 -
Hidden 16/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Jun/09 2nd
Leelogs 16/Jun/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead
gazbonutter 11/Jun/09 2nd
thomasadixon 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Lisa
Reaver2k 29/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Finally came back to lead this! Found it relatively easy actually, just slightly worrying with gear utilising only small things! Hung around ages placing gear! Rock over onto the spike didn't feel too bad, then some trickyish climbing up to the top moves, lace the crack to the left with smallish cams and go for it. Previous time I had gone round left to finish which felt really hard, round the right it was much better. A good pocket to sidepull on the right, and stand up and reach up just below the block, scarily wobbly block so I finished off left! Promptly followed by realising I'd lost a 5 set of nuts. A great route to finish a great day! Nice to see Haydon and Alex!

with Michael, Lisa, Tom and Andy
Shauna 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Jules
Hidden 30/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
john lynch 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with rich armour
Andrew Barker 29/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Phil Applegate
Hidden 17/Sep/08 2nd
clive-greenwood 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Horrox 27/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/08 TR O/S
MeMeMe 15/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead
towdman 04/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Sue Armitage
towdman 21/May/08 2nd

Good lead for Graham

Graham Armitage 21/May/08 Lead
with towdman
jh5638 17/May/08 TR O/S
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
tom169 17/Nov/07 TR β
Reaver2k 17/Nov/07 TR β

Had watched tom previously when I brought him up on toprope, atleast for the final crux moves. I'm certainly not up for leading E1 quite yet if this is how they come! Did it cleanly though! Not much in the way of gear I don't think, 2 pieces, one low and 1 high. Fairly basic 4c/5a moves most of the way up then with a stonker of a 5b nearing the top! Spent a while figuring out the best sequence, eventually concluding that I just had to commit to my feet and go up for the sloping ledge. Went ok but wouldn't have liked to do it on lead. E2? Probably not but no soft touch at E1 from what I've done.

with tom169
mje1398 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with John M
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
ieverett ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Linda Horner
bigbobbyking ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
John Kettle 12/Aug/07 -
Hidden 11/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/07 2nd
chrishedgehog ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Welsh Neil
Hidden 27/Jun/07 2nd dog
Hardonicus 27/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/07 Lead rpt
adam carless 01/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/07 2nd O/S
Karl Wooffindin 23/May/07 2nd O/S
Jenko 01/May/07 TR
with Matt Robinson
Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
IanJackson 11/Mar/07 2nd O/S

Why didnt i lead this?!

with Big Ian
gregarding ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Donna Nichamin
Lukey B ?/Mar/07 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bob 17/Dec/06 TR
Mark A Humphries 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Pat
Brown 12/Oct/06 2nd β

with only left hand

with John
Sidekick 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 09/Sep/06 2nd
with Andy
Iggy_B 13/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Simon Troop
Hidden 13/Jul/06 2nd
colin milton 06/Jul/06 2nd
with fenclimb
Hidden 06/Jul/06 Lead β
jonnyboy 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd
ukb shark 18/Mar/06 2nd
with Mark Hundleby
goi.ashmore 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon
drysori ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/05 2nd
baldcoder 04/Jun/05 TR
darren1 04/Jun/05 -
Tim W 04/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 18/May/05 2nd
Hidden 11/May/05 TR
cem 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Sally Dipple
Alex Mason ?/Mar/05 Lead

quite a good route expected more for some reason good sling behind the flake nice and technical moves

with tony holdsworth
Iggy_B ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Simon Troop
Phill Mitch ??/2005 Lead O/S
with wayne
NeilManley ??/2005 Lead
adi bryant ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
LankyPaddy ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 2nd O/S
moreno 13/Mar/04 2nd
with richard guest
Cragrat Rich ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S

Was going well and had great conditions. Went smoothly and is classy

Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
PenJD 27/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Tony Heron
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
Chris the Tall 25/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Paul
Ben lad 24/May/03 -
with Unce
Peakpdr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 20/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden 25/May/02 Lead O/S
stevo smith 07/Apr/02 Lead RP
with Arthur smith (Dad)
Hidden 06/Apr/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/01 2nd
DanEm ?/May/01 Lead RP

nice climb- airy delicate top

with Jim Emery
Chris Reid ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/01 Lead
BlueJohn ?/Apr/01 2nd
with JohnnyM
Mark Davies PK ?/Jan/01 Lead
with Efua
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
martroberts 15/Aug/98 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
andrew300169 11/May/96 Lead O/S
BruceW ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S

Thought it was my first E2!

with Keith S.
nai ??/1996 Lead
Roget 14/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Chris Ellis 09/May/93 2nd
with Andy Barker
mattnuttall 24/Apr/93 Lead O/S

was E25b

with Alan Holden
Andy Say 26/Jun/90 Solo O/S
andy tetsill ?/Jun/88 TR
Pete Pozman 02/Sep/86 2nd
with Mark Gray
charlesmfrench 08/Mar/83 Lead O/S
Tom V ??/1980 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 89
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set