Rockfax Description
Start up the arete to the flake then traverse right just above the pruned sapling to the right edge of the face. Climb to a small cave then finish direct on broken flakes. Sadly escapable. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Jones 1933

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS.

Tony Holdsworth 04/Oct Lead rpt
with Jo Rowell, Steve Smith
Deezel65 25/Sep 2nd rpt
with Chris, John Ganley
Hidden 25/Sep Lead O/S
MatthewH 06/Sep Lead dnf
with Phil
Hidden 06/Sep 2nd
ralphio 22/Aug Lead O/S

Started up Just a Minute.

with Henry
dannyboy83 29/Jun Solo O/S
with Lena
amccann 27/May Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Pete Randall 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Pete D
Hidden 06/Apr TR
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 29/Oct/14 Solo O/S
with Ben
benkelsey 29/Oct/14 Solo O/S
mikestr555 26/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Alex Thompson 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Jake Godwin
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Solo O/S
gmatthew 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead
Lukem6 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
sjbrook 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nick Brook
hotfeet 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Jonathan G, StuartP
StuartP 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/May/14 2nd rpt
pog100 02/May/14 2nd
with Cath Walton
David_Gledson 30/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
GregBristol 26/Apr/14 Lead
cragtyke 09/Apr/14 Lead
with Mark B
crag_hopper_Jay 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 14/Dec/13 Lead O/S
alp79 14/Dec/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/13 Solo
AidanG 14/Aug/13 -
Calum Wadsworth 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with S.O.C, Emma
max_chan 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
john max 18/Jul/13 Lead
with Andy Jobling
davidclare 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Becky Pollard, Adam Griffin
Griff1990 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Still easy, lead on two sling runners.

Jam_sandwich 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Jake Young 02/Jul/13 Solo O/S
ruairidhwad 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with SOC
gavinpeach 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Placed one number one cam at the beginning then basically soloed it. Nice route though.

dangmtb 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 12/May/13 2nd
with Scott, Liam
stev1e.wilso 12/May/13 2nd
with Simon
dr_botnik 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

felt scarier than the e1 next door!

the power 06/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with rob
Hidden 09/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 19/Oct/12 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Paul Hy 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Phil T
the power 15/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with Paul Hy
Needkraken 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Ben
BenedictIEP 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Are people seriously voting this at HVS? Easy moves protected by two good cams after the traverse and a sling behind the spike near the cave, the crux is getting off the ground! Felt mid-grade VS 4B to me, and much easier than this, done the day before. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=18841

with Tes Matthews, Luke Donaldson
deacondeacon 12/Oct/12 Solo O/S

Felt pretty steady at vs 4c but didn't like the 'snappy' holds at the top on solo.

cmarsden5 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
DBoothroyd 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Marsden
jasonpm 06/Oct/12 2nd
Julie 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Jason
Rob Davies ?/Sep/12 Lead

An attempt on Great Buttress Arete that deviated

with Phil Ashton
mtempest 20/Aug/12 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Aug/12 TR

Had tunnel vision on this one. Climbed up the wall to the left of the cave but after a couple of moves I couldn't see any more holds and backed off. I totally missed the fact that the route finished up to the right !. Will read the guide more closely in future. Then climbed it on a top rope after Mike.

mattwilk 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great route but not great gear, feels pretty committing moving up after the traverse. Surprised I manned up and did it!

with Lou
Gallant 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Barry D 10/Jun/12 Lead

wimped off right at top (dodgy move and no gear)

with Jules_L
Jules Lane ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Lovely moves, esp. the top, although worryingly poorly protected.

with Mynydd Barry
the power 06/May/12 Solo
joemallia 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Started up 'Just a Minute' because the start was being used by someone on 'Great Buttress Arete'. Some nice moves with sparse protection.

Deezel65 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
Steven Andrews 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mr spoon 05/Oct/11 2nd
wishicud climbHVS 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great start. Exposed finish. Think crucial holds have broken off.

with Ash Crazy fool Green
99bolivar 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with John Hutchinson
Hidden 21/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Katya 06/Jun/11 Lead
with Bryony
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Bry 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Paul
Lumbering Oaf 14/May/11 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Jack Whiteley 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Bit out of my comfort zone this one. Did a foot traverse along the break and could only get a less than satisfactory cam in about 2m below cave. Felt good when I got to cave, squirmed in and filled it full of gear. Probs didn't look very stylish but who gives a f***

with Izzy
timofy 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mark20 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ollie B 01/Mar/11 Lead β

belayed mark and pulled the ropes before leading

with M.Rankine
Hidden 27/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 27/Feb/11 Lead
with Ben
mwatson ??/2011 -
spragglerocks 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Batt 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Fun. Nothing on the right til you get to the cave.

Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd β
Hoyes 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
colin milton 09/Oct/10 Lead
with shaun l
jshields 18/Sep/10 Lead
Sankey 18/Sep/10 2nd
with Jon and Ed
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

tough for VS (no side runners) but a great climb, would be solid 2 star contender if it wasn't escapable in places.

with Pete aka Dad
TerryB 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
philboy 17/Jun/10 Lead
with matt g
LakesWinter 17/Jun/10 2nd
with Phil B
Chriswallis2 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

started up 'Just A Minute', bailed to this 2/3 up

with Anna
Dave Foster 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Sandbag that slipped through the net during crag upgrades?

with Sandra
malc 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Eric B
Chris Craggs 30/May/10 2nd
with Steve Cunnington
Alex Thompson 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Climbed with out runner in Romulus (HVS tick?), but wandered in Just A Minute right under the rocking boulder!! Panic traversed right... Mattias seconded via Romulus.

with Mattias
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead RP
Leelogs 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with dpmUK
Oliver Houston 23/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Phill Mitch 19/Mar/10 2nd
with reapey
reapey 19/Mar/10 Lead
with phil
Phill Mitch 11/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with gaz
Bill Lawrence 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

climbed in the wet, wanted to great buttress arete but it was far too wet for my liking

with andy lawrence
Hidden ??/2010 -
stephenhartley ??/2010 -
staceyjg 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Barra
willworkforfoodjnr 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Andy
MD 05/Sep/09 Lead

Top moves felt exposed

with Donna
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd
Simon Caldwell 30/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Peri, Carmen
pebbles 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

used side runner in right hand crack as looked rather thin on protection otherwise

with simon and carmen
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Solo O/S
simon1965 29/Aug/09 Solo O/S
Jonathan Hall 18/Aug/09 Lead
disturbed_one51 18/Aug/09 2nd
with Wee man
Howard J 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Darren Shepherd
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead
Kelly D 12/Aug/09 2nd β
with Dave ?
nick ferro 08/Aug/09 -
Ian Archer 06/Aug/09 2nd
Karlos 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
doogstrue 19/Jul/09 2nd
with andy s
Hidden 16/Jul/09 Lead
Graham Booth 12/Jul/09 Lead
valentinesbabe 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Spooky finish!

thomasadixon 29/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
Pilch 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Quite a bold route, broken holds and poor gear at the top

with Graham
towdman 01/Mar/09 2nd
cem 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Adam1973 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
David Wynne 21/Feb/09 2nd

Very surprised I did it after a year out due to injury but a great climb.

Andrew Barker 29/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Phil Applegate
SteveM 22/Oct/08 Solo O/S
with Kev
bridget143 05/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Had to be rescued on run out top section, this is HVS just because of lack of gear and nasty fall potential.

with Alicia
popebenedictus 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Edd Rab
edd rab 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 27/Aug/08 2nd

Hard VS. Stepped momentarily on to V Diff.

with Anna
Anna Horrox 27/Aug/08 Lead
Jenko 25/Aug/08 TR
with TJ
sstanier 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Sam Clarke
Sam Clarke 21/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Sam Stanier
Hidden 14/Jul/08 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/08 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead
Chris46 26/May/08 TR
with Moving Outside Course
Tim Hudds 26/May/08 TR

Moving Outside course with Dave Green

towdman 21/May/08 Lead O/S
Graham Armitage 21/May/08 2nd
with towdman
jh5638 17/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/08 2nd dnf
MikeLeeds 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Seemed harder than vs 4c

clive-greenwood 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 15/Dec/07 Lead O/S
tom169 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
pog100 11/Nov/07 2nd
Reaver2k 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Scared myself abit silly on this but, but was much more controlled than I had expected! From the bottom you can see there is a run out section (hadn't been told it was HVS without side-runner, so avoided it at all costs...) First moves are quite technical but nice. Gear quite pumpy to place at the break. Move our right, the sapling has been cut and makes a very useful handhold. People have been saying (and EG agrees) that you are supposed to stand up and traverse along this ledge but I couldn't see any hand holds above it, and would rather have the security of gear for the next couple of moves. So put in a couple of medium cams into the sapling break. Made a tricky mantleshelf move, reversed it because I was out of balance and ropes were twisted. Stepped up again and made it with more ease. Placed a very precarious (phsycological) 0.5 cam into a very shallow and apperantly very brittle hold (tell me off why don't you). Worked out the sequence very carefully, and made the moves with relative ease. Then came the move up into the cave, off a small sharp flake crimp and a decent hold. Messed this up and pretty much slapped into the cave, luckily I caught this but had an awful case of the "Ooo-errrs" because I knew I shouldn't done that, it was too risky! More large gear in the crack, up and over the lip (easier than it looks) and a tricky move to get your hand on the top ledge! Lovely, how can this only be 1 stars? Tricky for VS, although I am only a relatively new to VS leader!

dfbpdave 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
martin48 02/Sep/07 Lead

hvs without side runner

with dave
Hidden 01/Aug/07 2nd
chrishedgehog 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with LMC
Smeegan ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Dale
Profile Removed 22 06/Jun/07 Lead dnf
with H
Hidden 01/Jun/07 Solo dnf
Hidden 10/May/07 Solo O/S
Reaver2k 17/Apr/07 2nd rpt

Had led this the previous week and tom fancied a bash at it. Originally he was thinking of trying the E1, the top of his grade, but after feeling the precarious sling boulder, he stepped up, didn't see the moves with ease and backed down. Didn't place as much gear as me from there on out! Quickly ran along the ledge and up without too much trouble and with his only gear the sling. Into the cave, some more solid gear and then out and over. I found it harder than the previous week again, and can't believe I commited all the way up! Not usually something I would do!

with tom169
Oli 09/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Hard for VS, maybe more like HVS 5a? Also seemed a bit gash and escapable at times.

with Lee
Hidden 08/Mar/07 2nd dnf
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
LakesWinter 16/Dec/06 2nd
with gustav
lithos 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S

hard +bold for vs 4c

Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
stevo smith 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Brown 24/Mar/06 Solo O/S
with Henry
drysori ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 31/Jul/05 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
baldcoder 04/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
madaxeman 24/May/05 2nd

more like HVS!

with Mark Benton
NeilManley ??/2005 Solo
adi bryant ??/2005 Lead O/S
Chris M ??/2005 -
LakesWinter ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Wellsey
Hidden 13/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Simon Caldwell 11/Jun/03 Lead dnf
with Carmen
Simon Caldwell 11/Jun/03 TR rpt

Having just taken a big fall when attempting to lead

Ben lad 24/May/03 -
with Unce
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
Tim W 06/Oct/02 2nd
Phill Mitch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with wayne
PenJD 21/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Jon Ascroft
Roget 21/Apr/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/98 Lead
Tim W 25/Aug/98 2nd
martroberts 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Harry
DanEm ??/1995 Lead O/S
leathers ??/1990 -
Tom V ??/1980 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
David Carpenter, vix, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 51
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set