Rockfax Description
(The Puff Crack) The right-hand crack is excellent. Where the crack runs out, the route continues up the bold protectionless slabs above. The old grade for the crux pitch of N5+ gave a few folks a moment or two of self doubt. Start as for the previous route in a vegetated bay below and left of the cracks (which can't be seen), with a flake-crack on its right-hand side.
1) N5, 25m. Climb up left then right on grass ledges to the flake. Move right and continue up more flakes and cracks to an awkward stance at the foot of the main crack or continue.
2) N5+, 30m. Continue up the finger-jamming crack that splits the clean white slab to a ramp at the top of the crack and a small stance. A superb, sustained and well-protected pitch.
3) N6, 30m. Traverse right, across ledges, and up a flake to below a slab. Climb up then move right to gain a spike runner (last gear). Move back left and trend left towards the top of the brown streak. A bold pitch which is especially worrying early in the season when it can be dirty/gritty. There is an easier but equally bold variation up the right arete.
4) N5-, 20m. Climb a short ramp then move out left to gain the final crack. Climb this, which eventually becomes vegetated towards the top. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ewanthomson | 20 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Big loose block at belay of pitch 3 (between the two trees). Marked with x in chalk. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big loose block at belay of pitch 3 (between the two trees). Marked with x in chalk. |
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ThunderBeest | 26 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: There are a few crimps on the slab, but man up! | ||
Show beta
βeta: There are a few crimps on the slab, but man up! |
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Grade: n6 ***
(Reinesvaet)