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Puffrisset** E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Left-hand Crack
 
The Ape / Apa >>
110m, 4 pitches. The Puff Crack) The right-hand crack is excellent. Where the crack runs out the route continues up the poorly protected slabs above. Start as for the previous route in a vegetated bay below and left of the cracks (which can't be seen from below) with a flake crack on it right-hand side. 1) 5, 30m. Climb the flake then move right to ledges and continue up flakes and cracks to a small stance at the foot of the main crack. 2) 5+, 30m. Continue up the finger-jamming crack that splits the clean white slab to a ramp at the top of the crack and a small stance. A superb, sustained and well protected pitch. 3) 5+, 30m. Traverse to the right, across several ledges, and up a flake then make climb the slab to the right of a black streak - poor protection - to reach the large bushy ledge above. Move left to a tree belay in the corner. 4) 5-, 20m. Climb a short ramp then move out left to access the final crack and climb this, which eventually becomes vegetated at the top. © ROCKFAX
The right-hand crack in the wall gives a great three star pitch at around HVS 5a. The start is a bit unclear from the guidebook description. Start in the central grassy bay and scramble up left to a tree (you can belay here although lower is probably better). Traverse directly right across to a short but prominent flake. Climb this to gain the slab and the cracks. Pitch 3 is very bold - E2/3 5b. If it is dirty then the friction climbing becomes desperate. There is only one runner on the slab - a small tape over a spike on the right which will hold if you weight it down. The line is also a little unclear. The best line is probably up to the spike from below and slightly left, then reverse that move and follow a diagonal faint white rib with your feet, up and left to ledges near the top of the brown streak. The top pitch is also dirty but the climbing easy. The walk down descent is fine.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 22 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

first pitch only. then rained off.
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with James Oswald

Ferdia lead the 1st pitch. Getting to the belay of P1 on second it began to rain. I climbed faster but we had to retreat due to rain. Got quite wet and left loads of gear. That afternoon we retrieved the gear by abseiling from the top of the crag on two 60m ropes tied together. A fun exercise in the rain which was faffy but epic free...!
James Oswald - Lead dnf - 2013 with Ferdia

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 29/Jul/12 with Robert Durran

Led p1 & p3. P3 was a bit of a shock to the system - bold, smeary and dirty - glad to see it's had an upgrade to n6 in the update.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/12

Good wee route right behind the camp-site.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11

I led P2&3
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/11 with mrstarwarsman

mrstarwarsman - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/11 with john tanner

Danhan - AltLd - 11/Aug/10 with Nick

awesome route! only did the first three pitches, the third is really really runout, there is a sling over a very small spike (weighted it down with a big cam) to protect the slab. the first 2 pitches involve heavenly crack climbing
sonnenstern - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Rachel

I lead p1 and 3, The line of P3 is very unclear....I started up the rampline which is bold in the extreme. I reversed this after a few metres as I could see a flake further right so I climbed up to this placed a well dodgy nut and went straight up from there a few meters right of the arete. There is another poor runner just below the dirty top (small cam under a flared flake). I also belayed from here as you would have a knighmare with the rope if you walked along the legde as directed in the guide
SGD - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Angelika Renner

naine - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with SGD

joeydurkin - 2nd - 06/Aug/09 with Andy w

richardlong78 - AltLd - 24/Jul/09 with Patch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09

I led p2 and p4. Pitch 2 was very nice.
tjkk - AltLd β - 20/Jul/08

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 19/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister

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Voting
Total votes cast 22
hard E30 of 7
E30 of 7
easy E30 of 7
hard E20 of 7
E23 of 7
easy E21 of 7
hard E13 of 7
E10 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
hard 5b0 of 8
5b6 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a2 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
3 Stars3 of 7
2 Stars4 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead2 of 22 (9.1%)
Followed2 of 22 (9.1%)
Alt Leads18 of 22 (81.8%)

'Climbed'6 of 22 (27.3%)
clean O/S14 of 22 (63.6%)
clean β1 of 22 (4.5%)
dnf1 of 22 (4.5%)