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Colibrien*** HVS 5a

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[Looking down the crux pitch 5 of The Colibrien, Lofoten Islands, 2 kb]180m, 5 pitches. The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but break right up the 'Direct Crack' (originally a variation on Spurven). Start at the base of the unmistakable large left-trending hollow flake 1) 4, 30m. Climb and walk up the crest of the flake to a small belay. A precarious and unprotected pitch despite its friendly grade. 2) 5-, 30m. Continue up to the roof the traverse right across a slab (often wet) below the roof to its right-hand end, and layback up a steep crack around the roof. Climb grassy cracks onto the large terrace and belay at the base of a thin vertical crack. 3) 5+, 50m. Climb the crack (some grass) which becomes a thin seam, then step right delicately into the left-facing groove. Climb this, past a peg, to reach the third grass terrace and possible stance. Move 20m right to belay on the right at Spurven's 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor. 4) 6-, 40m. 'The Direct Crack'. Climb flakes and cracks into the upper chimney then step out right on to a small ledge to find a superb crack. Climb this by finger then hand jamming, gradually easing to an uncomfortable stance with a large sling-festooned spike belay. 5) 3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor on the shoulder on the right. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Looking down the crux pitch 5 of The Colibrien, Lofoten Islands © GazzerM49
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Got to the bottom of the route just as it began to rain. Boo
James Oswald - Lead dnf - Jun/13 with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine

Scary stuff. P1 is terrifying and P3 is much harder than the guide suggests. Started raining as my partner got to the top of P4 so we had to ab off before I could second it.
climbingpixie - AltLd dnf - 05/Jul/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/11

I led P1,3&4
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with mrstarwarsman

mrstarwarsman - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with john tanner

Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Hulda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Maija

I led pitch 4 (n6-), Andy led pitches 1 to 3, also with Tarquin Shipley
John Roe - AltLd - 05/Aug/09 with Andy Woolston

Would give it E1 5a/b for the third pitch. A precarious move rightwards that felt as hard as anything on Vestpilaren.
brockers - AltLd - 30/Jul/09 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jul/09

Pitch 3
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

Fredrik Nyberg - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Elin Eriksson

Bad Mongo - AltLd - 2005

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd O/S - Jun/03 with Andy Hyslop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
vix, Hidden, Hidden, Timothy Miller, Batt, Bradders

Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard E10 of 5
E10 of 5
easy E15 of 5
hard HVS0 of 5
HVS0 of 5
easy HVS0 of 5
hard VS0 of 5
VS0 of 5
easy VS0 of 5
hard 5b0 of 5
5b0 of 5
easy 5b5 of 5
hard 5a0 of 5
5a0 of 5
easy 5a0 of 5
hard 4c0 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
3 Stars6 of 7
2 Stars1 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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