|180m, 5 pitches. 180m. (The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but break right up the 'Direct Crack' (originally a variation on Spurven). Start at the base of the unmistakable large left-trending hollow flake|
1) 4, 30m. Climb and walk up the crest of the flake to a small belay. A precarious and unprotected pitch despite its friendly grade.
2) 5-, 30m. Continue up to the roof the traverse right across a slab (often wet) below the roof to its right-hand end, and layback up a steep crack around the roof. Climb grassy cracks onto the large terrace and belay at the base of a thin vertical crack.
3) 5+, 50m. Climb the crack (some grass) which becomes a thin seam, then step right delicately into the left-facing groove. Climb this, past a peg, to reach the third grass terrace and possible stance. Move 20m right to belay on the right at Spurven's 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor.
4) 6-, 40m. 'The Direct Crack'. Climb flakes and cracks into the upper chimney then step out right on to a small ledge to find a superb crack. Climb this by finger then hand jamming, gradually easing to an uncomfortable stance with a large sling-festooned spike belay.
5) 3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor on the shoulder on the right. © ROCKFAX