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|Lofoten > Trollfestningen >|
|Odins bue|| E4 6a|
|200m, 6 pitches. Odinís Bow) One of Lofotenís most sought after hard climbs, ascending the large, left-facing arch on the cliffís left-hand side. It features masses of laybacking and undercutting. Although the rock is beautiful clean granite, some persistent wet streaks mean the route should only be attempted after a long dry spell. Carry a good rack including micro-wires and duplicate cams in the mid ranges plus some larger ones. Start at the base of the large, left-facing, Yosemite-like groove.
1) 7-, 30m. Layback up the left-facing overlap, using some extremely thin jams, moving around an overhang to a hanging belay at a foothold.
2) 7, 25m. Continue laybacking and jamming up the unrelentingly steep groove to a tiny stance on the left.
3) 7, 25m. Two bolts protect hard moves to pass the overlap on the right to reach the higher arch. Layback (often wet) left up this past a peg and a wide section continuing with more difficulty to a hanging belay at a bolt.
4) 7, 30m. Traverse up and left, undercutting along the arch in a spectacular position. When the crack thins out, undercut left before making a very thin move to better jams and a small belay stance at a flake on the left.
5) 6+, 40m. Climb a small corner to a hollow flake and the base of a thin vertical crack in the upper slab. Climb the crack to the base of a groove then make an heroic move escaping out left to gain and climb a slabby corner to the base of the grim cleft of the 'Trollís Chimney'.
6) 4, 50m. Walk into the back of the chimney and climb to a ledge at its top. © ROCKFAX|
6 pitches, 7-,7,7,7(?),6+,4+. Climb up immaculate cracks in the bottom of the big left-leaning arch on the left side of "Trollfestningen" for four pitches, until the arch peters out. Than head straight up via some thin face-climbing to the troll's cave. Climb the cave/chimney to the top. Descend by walking down left (looking out) over somewhat exposed terrain until the rap-route over "Spurven" can be reached.
Approach the route by climbing the first two pitches of either "Spurven" (recommended) or "Colibrin".
This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
beautiful, sustained corners
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with alex scola
"Sort of OS" of 2nd pitch, Followd 3rd clean, OS of 4th, followed 5th & 6th clean
Jonas Wiklund - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Joakim Söderström