Spurven** E3 5c
170m, 5 pitches. The Sparrow) The first route on Trollfestningen and an excellent outing though the line involves a poorly protected wide crack and serious traverse (pitch 3). As a result, it sees less attention than it deserves. 1) 5+, 30m. Climb right and left to reach a crack then head up this, past some technical grass climbing, and a tough wide section (laybacked or thrutched - often wet) to a restricted stance. 2) 5, 30m. Continue up the easier crack above to reach the right-hand end of the second grass terrace. There is a 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor on the right. 3) 6+, 40m. On the far right above the ledge is a wide crack in a corner (the crack above the stance is a top-rope pitch (6+) the crack to the left is pitch 3 of Havørnen). Climb this - strenuous and awkward to protect - then make a poorly protected traverse to the right across the slabby face to ledges. Now scramble up and left to the 2 bolt belay on Spurven. 4) 5+, 40m. Step right and climb the jamming crack into the deep groove then continue up into a chimney on the left side of a tall flake. Climb the chimney, almost to its top, then make an awkward escape out right to reach the upper crack system. Belay at a restricted stance a little higher at a rock spike with slings. 5) 3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a 2 bolt belay on the shoulder on the right. © ROCKFAX
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 1 logbook, and on 1 wishlist.

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Batt
Voting
hard E40 of 0
E40 of 0
easy E40 of 0
hard E30 of 0
E30 of 0
easy E30 of 0
hard E20 of 0
E20 of 0
easy E20 of 0
hard 6a0 of 0
6a0 of 0
easy 6a0 of 0
hard 5c0 of 0
5c0 of 0
easy 5c0 of 0
hard 5b0 of 0
5b0 of 0
easy 5b0 of 0
3 Stars0 of 0
2 Stars0 of 0
1 Star0 of 0
0 Stars0 of 0
Bag of .....0 of 0
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.