Rockfax Description
Climb the small wall right of centre using undercuts (good cam) and poor holds to reach easier ground by a long stretch. Finish rapidly up the final wall. Much harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Don Barr 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.

Sam Marks 25/Nov Lead O/S
jonhowson 11/Jun TR RP

Great moves. The heat made the crimp super sweaty. Will be back to lead it in better conditions.

with Neil J
MSchobitz 31/May 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 31/May Lead O/S

I was a sketchy mess, placed a fairly dubious directional wire in the higher break with the good underpull in it. Then kept trying to put a high right foot on that kept pinging off. Eventually got up shaking like a leaf the whole way. Gave myself a stern talking to at the top..

with micki
amccann 27/May Solo O/S
Climbster 24/May Lead O/S
with Vick, Ian
Cake 14/Mar Lead G/U

Second go. Bomber gear right

with Matt
g1m147 01/Feb TR
Matt Groom ??/2015 Lead

I had to use the awful crimp as I was too short to reach from the undercut.

with Alex McCann
Hidden ??/2015 TR O/S
theomoore 20/Dec/14 Lead G/U


with Roisin
Andy Peak 1 03/Dec/14 TR

Failed on lead, top roped to se actually how hard it is, amazed me i cud actually do it, a bit gutted i didnt try the move.

Nick1812P 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, but quite soft.

with Ben
benkelsey 29/Oct/14 2nd O/S

much easier if you use the cam slot even though I'm not long

leeds_belle 22/Jun/14 2nd dnf

Hard, incredibly reachy move in the middle. A bit beyond me at the minute!

with Will
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 21/Apr/14 2nd
with al
Jackwd 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

First E3 preplaced gear! Hard for shorty like me!

Tithe Technique 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
tatz45 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Pembroke
ashtond6 14/Dec/13 TR

gear wasn't as good as expected, very worn pocket, when I tried on lead the cam twisted out!

alp79 14/Dec/13 TR dnf

Moves were too hard for me even on TR.

Hidden 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Took ages to find the nerve to get going on this, and there's one more sketchier move after the crux. Felt pretty solid at E3 for me although it was a warm August day. Gear placement is good although looks like it's had quite a battering.

Stoney Boy 23/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 13/Mar/13 TR dog
Matt Cooke 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
joemallia 06/May/12 2nd dnf

Hmm; second disappointment - another poor choice for a short guy. Fidel made the move after a rest on the rope, and finished the route.

with Katy Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna
Hidden 08/Apr/12 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead rpt
mark20 24/Feb/12 Lead β

On Liam's gear

Hidden 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead β
pie_eater_pete 10/Apr/11 Lead
john lynch 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Austin, Lewis Andrew
disturbed_one51 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt like a pretty tough move, sucks to be short for this one! There is a reasonable small slider placement to be found as well...

Ben1983 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Led with first two bits of gear already in.

Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 11/Apr/10 TR
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
with Burns
simon1965 29/Aug/09 TR dog

One try then cleaned it. Poor protection and very bold top out

with peakdj
Hidden 21/Jun/09 TR dog
liamoloughlin 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Shauna 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Jules
harvie 25/Feb/09 Lead β
robbo 19/Nov/08 Lead RP

Great route. Real bottle tester after the crux move.

with Spencer
Pete Graham 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Porter
mattyork2 01/May/08 Lead β

Well should have bought the old guide book for the E4 tick. One move wonder but really ebjoyed it, lockign down the crimper and delicately rocking up to latch flatty with my left from high footer -awesome. Unsure it is worth only E2, think E3 is fair.

with Steve Aherne
HamishD 07/Oct/07 TR O/S
martin48 25/Sep/07 Lead dnf
with dave
Brian Rodgers 15/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Nick Hobbs
Hidden 10/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Brown 24/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Henry
chrishedgehog 16/Mar/06 TR O/S
with Dave from D.R.
Hidden 03/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/05 2nd
Alex Mason ?/Mar/05 Lead

first e4 quite a rubbish route really but good to do an E4 i hadnt even done e2 when i did this says a lot really! but did fall off the crux but straight bk on and did it

with tony holdsworth
Stone Muppet ??/2005 TR O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead β

enjoyed this route. All crux beta unwillingly 'prized' from alex. first 'E4', though easier than all the 'proper' E3's i've done

with Alex Mason
Iggy_B ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Simon Troop
adi bryant ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead β
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Jan/03 Lead β

Pretty easy for E4!

Chris Reid ?/May/01 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Solo O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/99 Solo O/S
Daniel Armitage 10/Sep/99 Lead RP
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Edmunds
mattnuttall 24/Apr/93 Solo O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Tom V ??/1980 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
robw007, marcduhig, Hidden, Hidden, derekb, Bill Lawrence, Hidden, Hidden, martin48
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 42
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set