UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand facet of the square buttress is split by a thin crack. Approach this via a short slab (awkward for the short and with poor protection), then climb it using the arete on the right as and when needed. A finish to the left extends the pleasure a bit. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1933.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Wharncliffe Crags , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Routes Chloe would recommend , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fakey Rocks 18 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Removed a jammed nut from the beginning of the crack on sat 16 oct 2021. Happy to post it back to you....
βeta?
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βeta: Removed a jammed nut from the beginning of the crack on sat 16 oct 2021. Happy to post it back to you....
kempy7 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fun!
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βeta: Fun!
Fidget 26 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This becomes much harder if you have it in your head that you want to climb where the crack is, rather than climbing over at the arete :S
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βeta: This becomes much harder if you have it in your head that you want to climb where the crack is, rather than climbing over at the arete :S
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: what a great route if you are moving up the grades. from below looks a lot harder so once you are on it and find all the jolds open up to you it's a treat. been back and climbed this 3 times still a top climb whatever grade you may have moved on up to
βeta?
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βeta: what a great route if you are moving up the grades. from below looks a lot harder so once you are on it and find all the jolds open up to you it's a treat. been back and climbed this 3 times still a top climb whatever grade you may have moved on up to
Northern Mountain Monkey 21 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did I find a hidden hold? I thought it was a S 4b although I am 6'4'' so is it harder for the short? NMM
βeta?
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βeta: Did I find a hidden hold? I thought it was a S 4b although I am 6'4'' so is it harder for the short? NMM
Alex Mason 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah nice little lead bottom section quite airy! after the the moves flow so well!
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βeta: yeah nice little lead bottom section quite airy! after the the moves flow so well!
Simon Caldwell 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it again on Saturday, and I still think it's harder than Himmelswillen. They're exactly equally as good ;-)
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βeta: Climbed it again on Saturday, and I still think it's harder than Himmelswillen. They're exactly equally as good ;-)
Jus 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry Birkby, Tower Face rules! :o)
βeta?
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βeta: Sorry Birkby, Tower Face rules! :o)
Jon Greengrass 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: looks like a desperate finger crack from below, once up there hidden jugs abound. Very pleasant. a good safe lead
βeta?
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βeta: looks like a desperate finger crack from below, once up there hidden jugs abound. Very pleasant. a good safe lead
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb - a much better route than Himmelswillen!
βeta?
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βeta: Superb - a much better route than Himmelswillen!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wharncliffe Crags

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 185
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 171
Votes cast 167
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mutiny Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)

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