Cross the roof directly below the rib between the twin caves and head straight up the bulging wall (thread out left) to the roof. Power over this 1.5m right of Barney Rubble's notch. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Appleton 1996
Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Currently rather filthy on the juggy climbing low down, to the extent that some otherwise lovely holds were quite slippery, even in bone dry conditions.
Splendid route. Got quite pumped trying to retrieve some stubborn gear. Crossing roof would have felt bold on lead, I think.
It's all about the move... And not getting rope drag from the pro below! The move was made that much more fun having my belay jacket wrapped round my middle like an inflatable ri ng. Enjoyable.
|Antonio Ferra||?/Jul||Lead O/S||
Worth doing it for the move.
|harold walmsley||18/May/14||2nd O/S||
A bit of an one move wonder, the crux was nice but the the bottom section was not as interesting as Barney Rubble, IMHO. There was a broken hold just below the roof but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
|Graeme Hammond||08/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
Good, but slightly unbalanced route as the crux is much harder than anything else on the route and makes it more like E1 as per BMC guide. Small broken hold under the roof makes no difference.
|Steven Andrews||27/May/12||Lead O/S||
Seems to be a hold broken off just below the last roof so finnished up Barney Rubble. Sustained and pumpy but great climbing.
|Andrew Barker||01/Aug/10||2nd O/S||
Si, Jack Symmons
Went too far left at bulge but it made sense.
E1 in BMC guide. Which I think it is.
Fell off the top move. Big pull over a lip onto slopers. I'm short and my feet were off doing to the pull up!! Should have thrown my foot up to the right.
Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman