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Great Buttress*** HVS 5a

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[Great Buttress - Still in there, 1 kb]20m. A moorland classic; and well worth the walk up, though high in the grade. Start in a green corner below a huge roof and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall before trending strenuously rightwards through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to where a tricky pull gains the final delicate (and avoidable) slab. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Great Buttress - Still in there © Nedley
View all 12 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 43 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 14/Sep/14

Strenuous, sat on the rope a couple of times whilst removing gear.
batterj2 - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/14 with Jamie

led on alex's pre placed gear as pete and him both led the route before i did and none of us could be bothered to second or ab to clean the route
Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Alex McCann, Pete Briggs

led on alex's gear, pretty pumped by the end but i did hang about a ridiculous amount unnecessarily, just needed to commit
pete1993 - Lead β - 05/Sep/14 with Alex, matt harmon, Nick

on Alex's gear, with the E1 finish up the slab felt pretty steady for HVS if you're used to steep ground then a sketchy 5b topout after the slab.
Nick1812P - Lead β - 05/Sep/14 with India

amccann - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Matt H

indiarara - 2nd dnf - 05/Sep/14 with Nick

Luke Jones - 2nd - 24/Aug/14 with Will, Graham

Running_Board - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14

Rob Greenwood - UKC - 04/Aug/14

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Debbie

Lived up to all the hype - fantastic route!
Gudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

nedly - Lead - 17/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

Nigel Bond - Lead - 11/Jul/14 with Colin Hutton

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah

Alkis did all the hard work placing gear and taking a fall, and I lead with most of the gear pre-placed.
OliverRoss - Lead β - 21/Jun/14 with Alkis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/14

simon1965 - 2nd - 11/Jun/14 with Mark Westerman

Amazing. One of the best
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Colin Struthers

lxg613 - Lead - 03/May/14

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

thetradlad - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Harry Thorpe

Harry Thorpe - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jake Lodge

Frank the Husky - 2014

jayray - 2014

khalidq - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Stephen Cousins, Nick Whelan

So close to blowing the rockover near the top!
danoflynn - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Andy Barker

Wearing two rucsacks so was pretty ruined by the top!
Andrew Barker - 2nd - 12/Jul/13 with Dan O'Flynn

chrisbussell - 2nd - 09/Jul/13 with Tim O'Neill

kim.mulji - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Thea

apw - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Eric

LDJ - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Alfie, Lou

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

Brilliant route. Best HVS on grit? We climbed the eliminate version.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

claregardiner - Lead - 25/Jun/13

Straight forward, run it out and you'll get it!
Jackwd - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Nigel Berry

ColinD - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with Keith

First time I've seconded HVS without resting on rope. Great climb but knackering!
froglette - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with John Proudfoot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Bryony Weathers

sopaz - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Bry - 2nd β - 01/Jun/13 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/May/13

NickJH - Lead dog - Apr/13 with Andy Cross

keith leonard - Lead - 2013

Praps a bit bold and runnign out the gear but a solid first lead :-)
Goose U - Lead β - 09/Sep/12

Great climb but quite overhanging and I let my nerves get the better of me and sat on a piece of gear. Tough lead unless you like overhangs.
jessyb - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Charlie

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Tom Nichols

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Alan

hotfeet - Lead - 14/Jul/12 with James, Mac

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jul/12

tom.e - Solo β - 28/May/12 with Malcolm

Fantastic - good long sustained and interesting.
Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Andrew Marshall

smashing
jimorothy - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Scott Barnett

ushi - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Steven, Andy Marshall

hard for the grade, with a mean finishing move!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Claire

max_chan - Lead rpt - 26/May/12 with Phil PCC

Ahab - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Not going well, got abit intimidated. Perhaps not the best selection for the first grit outing of the year. Will be back with more beans...
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/12 with Ian Moore

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

admackie - 2012

vanderz - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with patrick dawson

Barney Rubble's harder brother, bit steeper and more sustained, not as many rests as appears from the ground and a nasty move at the end...
Brannock - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

brill climbing , big holds , hvs in e2 teritory
cobweb - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with martyn hopson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

A bit pumpy, but felt quite steady at the grade.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Rachel B

Jack Whiteley - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

Stunning route in a wild setting Well worth the walk.
andybirtwistle - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Barry D - 2nd - 05/Jul/11 with Richard W

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

One of the best climbs ive done in the Peak.
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with John Newbiggin

Really enjoyed it, and managed to just find enough rest above the big roof for the clean onsight. :) Delicate slab felt a bit out of place but found the correct combination to unlock it.
nick ferro - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Dioni

Paul D Jones - Lead - 04/Jun/11 with Jerome Gill

jiggerypokery - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/11 with Paul Jones

Budge - Lead O/S - 06/May/11 with Brian Mattock, Carl Tiivas

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 01/May/11

dprctr - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Paul Jones

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 23/Apr/11 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 16/Apr/11 with Rachel Takacs, Shaggy, Rosie Henstock

Did the desperate top out on the slab again despite saying I wouldn't, defiantly get the E1 tick for that.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Becky E

Becky E - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Jug-fest with a little bit of thought required! Enough gear and shake out spots.
Batt - 2nd O/S - 2011 with James Hoyes

PAJames - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Middleton

Brilliant jugfest. There are good holds and good gear everywhere making it a pleasant romp up a daunting overhang.
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Hannah Moulton

Shane-Smith - 2nd - 03/Sep/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Bella, Shane

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

burto - Lead β - 16/Aug/10 with ben dorey, malc

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Felt harder than Lancaster Flyby but it was the last climb of the day.
MD - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Heg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10

Richard G Wilkinson - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Dimitris Perdikou

dimwit18 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Richard G Wilkinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Bry - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Andy and Liam

keefe - 05/Jun/10 with Tansy

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Sarah Baker

ian led the top 'pitch' - the crack. greta route on huge holds well protected as well, steep though
lithos - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with ian everett

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Jade

jshields - Lead - 15/May/10 with Ed James

HVS climbing in an E1 position. Definitely no harder than 5a. The final slab moves are well worth while.
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 05/May/10

moreno - 2nd - May/10 with Rob Stone

ieverett - 2nd - May/10 with Rob Stone

Led the final pitch up the overhanging corner
mattparratt - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

Dogmusher - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Johan Piper

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Inkpen

highrepute - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

A good fight. Good gear though tiring to place. Avoided the 'delicate slab' at the top as there was too much rope drag.
bigbobbyking - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris Allan

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

Well worth the walk in. Another gritstone great! Finished the top slab so claiming the E1, get 'em where you can!
nickmattia - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with drew withey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

davidwright - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Sam

Sam couldn't get off the ground so seconded my own lead to get the gear back.
davidwright - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Sam

tradguy - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mark Hazell

A nice route and with very positive holds all the way up. Quite committing in areas as found it time consuming to place gear! Had to second the route too, as belayer slipped into some kind of coma half way through! Oh Helen..
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Helen R

Ketu - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Nigel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

brilliant steep route, tricky start, and some quite committing big pulls higher up, as good gear is tiring to place at times. i thought this was better than GNR at millstone, allbeit a touch easier.
Milne - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Ned

A bit awkward to protect on the really steep bits. I started sprinted through them but by the time I stopped I was quite run out amid not too many decent gear options, hence regreted bypassing gear below. Fortunately the enormous sideways jug and bomber cam wasn't too far away.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Si & Andy

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Chris

Clee - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Chris

nige pacer - 02/Aug/09

RalphC - Lead - 27/Jul/09 with Caroline

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/09

Screwed up taking too long to place gear, got pumped and ended up resting on it. Doh! must return...
Gustav - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Matt G

Wicked route, nowhere near as hard as it looks, but the final move might catch people out.
slacky - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

colin milton - Lead dog - 23/May/09 with ibbo

mjeffery - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

I thought this was hard....actually started on the eliminate by mistake. the start is 5b and the finish is very interesting too. 5b
SGD - Lead - 28/Sep/08 with Jonathan

Jugtastic HVS 5a, not particularly pumpy and with good gear. Final steep slab looked like it would go at 5a on the right hand side so went for the higher left hand side for more of a challenge. Hardest and scariest topout I've ever done ensued, heelhooking whilst pulling on poor slopers and with the prospect of a fall onto some nice rocks on the ledge below the slab, greasy day as well, just about made it... E4 6a? PS: midges got pretty evil.
Misha - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Ian Wyatt

Brilliant.
Stig - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/08

hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd - 20/Jul/08 with graemegraeme

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Duck, Paul Dewey

Fell after arms got totally pumped, too much faffing with gear placements. Good holds but steep and sustained. Completed on second.
Jim Slater - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/08 with Steve C

Gibbering mass of nerves. Didn't think I'd have the strenght to do it, so didn't. Big shame, really.
cmsg - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/08 with Tom Cattermole

tobydunford - 2nd β - 13/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/08

Adam1973 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08 with Big Ian

and viv
WB - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Guy

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

bob3141 - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with Jesse Dufton

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 04/Nov/07 with bob3141

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07

howlingbaboon - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/07 with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with jon

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Aug/07

Joe Dove - 2nd - 26/Aug/07 with kev

Did as two pitches. I lead the second - up the slab
max_chan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Steve

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with chris/gerald

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/07

A very physical climb. Technically not a challenge (hence tend to agree with new guide's HVS rating). But very physical as overhanging most of the way. Ran out of steam halfway up and came off which was annoying - must get fitter.
Mark_RMC - 2nd - 09/Jun/07 with Rob Smart

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Paul

Central climb to finish, so only gets HVS 5A.. He-man climbing at its best!!
jimsrankin - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Gro

JGW - Lead - Apr/07

gazfellows - 2nd - Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with LR_Davidson

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Eddie

cem - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/06

Boy - 2006

Chris M - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/04

Tim W - Lead O/S - 02/May/04 with Darren Miller

sdht - 2004

chris sm - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/03 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead dnf - Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/03

cem - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/02 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

phardman - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/02

JohnHutch - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/02 with L

Stopped by slopers around the final roof
Chris the Tall - Lead dnf - Jun/02 with Paul

Hidden - Lead - 2001

tuftynick - 2001

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/00 with James R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/99

martroberts - Lead O/S - 24/May/98

Roget - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/91

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/90

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/86

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Tony Holdsworth - 01/Jan/70

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Voting
Total votes cast 155
hard E10 of 43
E10 of 43
easy E19 of 43
hard HVS21 of 43
HVS10 of 43
easy HVS2 of 43
hard VS0 of 43
VS1 of 43
easy VS0 of 43
hard 5b0 of 40
5b0 of 40
easy 5b3 of 40
hard 5a19 of 40
5a17 of 40
easy 5a1 of 40
hard 4c0 of 40
4c0 of 40
easy 4c0 of 40
3 Stars68 of 72
2 Stars4 of 72
1 Star0 of 72
0 Stars0 of 72
Bag of .....0 of 72
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 207 (1.9%)
Lead119 of 207 (57.5%)
Followed64 of 207 (30.9%)
Alt Leads4 of 207 (1.9%)
Unknown16 of 207 (7.7%)

'Climbed'73 of 207 (35.3%)
clean O/S104 of 207 (50.2%)
clean β9 of 207 (4.3%)
clean rpt6 of 207 (2.9%)
clean RP1 of 207 (0.5%)
dogged4 of 207 (1.9%)
dnf10 of 207 (4.8%)