Rockfax Description
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously rightwards through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb. © Rockfax

FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Calum Wadsworth 07/May Lead O/S

Wow, awesome route! definitely up there with the sloth and fbd but without the queues, not as steep, but steep for longer. Top effort on 2nd from Emma.

with Emma
Wizzy 13/Mar 2nd O/S
xiangoh 03/Oct/15 2nd β
NOG 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
stevemace85 03/Oct/15 2nd dog
lloydrees91 26/Sep/15 Lead
with caiti
dr_botnik 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with neil
theomoore 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Ardo 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Rob
charley 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
drewish 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Amazing jug romp - final mantel was interesting!

with Chris
sopaz 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Mackie
admackie 02/Aug/15 Lead
marconi 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable. Jugs all the way, pretty much. Not as pumpy as anticipated as there are a couple of opportunities for rests. Finished up the corner as couldn't remember if slab finish was on right or left. Oh yeah - and there was a pro photographer there shooting for a new guidebook. Photos only 'average', apparently, but you never know!

with Antonio Ferra
Cake 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Wow. Fairly unique on grit for sustained steepness on jugs

kermit_uk 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Iain
caradoc 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great climbing through the steep stuff then a bit of an anti climax on the slab at the top. View the steep stuff here...https://youtu.be/Sqp5MVrtuRA

with nick yapp
tatz45 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Impressive ground covered for HVS

with Duncan Cundy
John Nuttall 09/Apr/15 Lead
with Coel
phil64 ??/2015 -
Ben Grounsell ??/2015 Lead O/S
Merlin 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jonathon Percival, Dave Tait
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd dnf
batterj2 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

Strenuous, sat on the rope a couple of times whilst removing gear.

with Jamie
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

led on alex's pre placed gear as pete and him both led the route before i did and none of us could be bothered to second or ab to clean the route

pete1993 05/Sep/14 Lead β

led on alex's gear, pretty pumped by the end but i did hang about a ridiculous amount unnecessarily, just needed to commit

Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Lead β

on Alex's gear, with the E1 finish up the slab felt pretty steady for HVS if you're used to steep ground then a sketchy 5b topout after the slab.

with India
amccann 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Matt H
indiarara 05/Sep/14 2nd dnf
with Nick
Luke Jones 24/Aug/14 2nd
with Will, Graham
Freshprintce 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 04/Aug/14 -
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Gudge 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Lived up to all the hype - fantastic route!

ned_85 17/Jul/14 Lead
Nigel Bond 11/Jul/14 Lead
with Colin Hutton
greenclimb 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
OliverRoss 21/Jun/14 Lead β

Alkis did all the hard work placing gear and taking a fall, and I lead with most of the gear pre-placed.

with Alkis
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nevil 12/Jun/14 AltLd
with Mike
simon1965 11/Jun/14 2nd
harold walmsley 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. One of the best

with Colin Struthers
lxg613 03/May/14 Lead
jimbonfire 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
jayray ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 Lead
khalidq 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Stephen Cousins, Nick Whelan
danoflynn 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

So close to blowing the rockover near the top!

Andrew Barker 12/Jul/13 2nd

Wearing two rucsacks so was pretty ruined by the top!

chrisbussell 09/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
kim.mulji 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Thea
Pete Wimbush 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Eric
LDJ 06/Jul/13 Lead
with Alfie, Lou
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Best HVS on grit? We climbed the eliminate version.

claregardiner 25/Jun/13 Lead
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Straight forward, run it out and you'll get it!

with Nigel Berry
ColinD 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Keith
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
sopaz 01/Jun/13 2nd
Bry 01/Jun/13 2nd β
with Paul
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd β
NickJH ?/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Andy Cross
keith leonard ??/2013 Lead
Goose U 09/Sep/12 Lead β

Praps a bit bold and runnign out the gear but a solid first lead :-)

jessyb 08/Sep/12 2nd

Great climb but quite overhanging and I let my nerves get the better of me and sat on a piece of gear. Tough lead unless you like overhangs.

with Charlie
Mowglee 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Jim Slater 11/Aug/12 Lead rpt
hotfeet 14/Jul/12 Lead
with James, Mac
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
tom.e 28/May/12 Solo β
with Malcolm
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 2nd O/S

Fantastic - good long sustained and interesting.

with Andrew Marshall
jimorothy 27/May/12 2nd


with Scott Barnett
ushi 27/May/12 2nd
with Steven, Andy Marshall
JamieSparkes 26/May/12 Lead O/S

hard for the grade, with a mean finishing move!

max_chan 26/May/12 Lead rpt
with Phil PCC
Ahab 13/May/12 Lead O/S
markfairbank 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Not going well, got abit intimidated. Perhaps not the best selection for the first grit outing of the year. Will be back with more beans...

with Ian Moore
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
vanderz 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Brannock 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Barney Rubble's harder brother, bit steeper and more sustained, not as many rests as appears from the ground and a nasty move at the end...

cobweb 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

brill climbing , big holds , hvs in e2 teritory

with martyn hopson
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hoyes 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A bit pumpy, but felt quite steady at the grade.

Jack Whiteley 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead

Stunning route in a wild setting Well worth the walk.

with Keith Lonsdale
quiffhanger 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Barry D 05/Jul/11 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Sam Simpson 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

One of the best climbs ive done in the Peak.

nick ferro 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed it, and managed to just find enough rest above the big roof for the clean onsight. :) Delicate slab felt a bit out of place but found the correct combination to unlock it.

with Dioni
Paul D Jones 04/Jun/11 Lead
with Jerome Gill
jiggerypokery 04/Jun/11 2nd dnf
Budge 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with Brian Mattock, Carl Tiivas
simeclimb68 01/May/11 Solo O/S
dprctr 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Did the desperate top out on the slab again despite saying I wouldn't, defiantly get the E1 tick for that.

with Becky E
Becky E 10/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
Batt ??/2011 2nd O/S

Jug-fest with a little bit of thought required! Enough gear and shake out spots.

PAJames ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead
disturbed_one51 05/Sep/10 Lead

Brilliant jugfest. There are good holds and good gear everywhere making it a pleasant romp up a daunting overhang.

Shane-Smith 03/Sep/10 2nd
Hannes B 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Bella, Shane
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
burto 16/Aug/10 Lead β
with ben dorey, malc
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
MD 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Felt harder than Lancaster Flyby but it was the last climb of the day.

with Heg
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Richard G Wilkinson 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dimitris Perdikou
dimwit18 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Bry 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andy and Liam
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
Fat Tim 31/May/10 Lead O/S
lithos 23/May/10 Lead O/S

ian led the top 'pitch' - the crack. greta route on huge holds well protected as well, steep though

with ian everett
OffshoreAndy 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jade
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
liamoloughlin 05/May/10 Lead O/S

HVS climbing in an E1 position. Definitely no harder than 5a. The final slab moves are well worth while.

moreno ?/May/10 2nd
with Rob Stone
ieverett ?/May/10 2nd
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 2nd

Led the final pitch up the overhanging corner

Dogmusher 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Johan Piper
ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
highrepute 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A good fight. Good gear though tiring to place. Avoided the 'delicate slab' at the top as there was too much rope drag.

with Chris Allan
chrisallan 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
nickmattia ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Well worth the walk in. Another gritstone great! Finished the top slab so claiming the E1, get 'em where you can!

with drew withey
Hidden ??/2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
davidwright 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
davidwright 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Sam couldn't get off the ground so seconded my own lead to get the gear back.

with Sam
tradguy 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
boulderholder 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

A nice route and with very positive holds all the way up. Quite committing in areas as found it time consuming to place gear! Had to second the route too, as belayer slipped into some kind of coma half way through! Oh Helen..

with Helen R
Ketu 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Milne 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

brilliant steep route, tricky start, and some quite committing big pulls higher up, as good gear is tiring to place at times. i thought this was better than GNR at millstone, allbeit a touch easier.

with Ned
Owen W-G 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A bit awkward to protect on the really steep bits. I started sprinted through them but by the time I stopped I was quite run out amid not too many decent gear options, hence regreted bypassing gear below. Fortunately the enormous sideways jug and bomber cam wasn't too far away.

with Si & Andy
Different Steve 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Chris
Clee 08/Aug/09 2nd
with Chris
nige pacer 02/Aug/09 -
RalphC 27/Jul/09 Lead
with Caroline
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
Gustav 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

Screwed up taking too long to place gear, got pumped and ended up resting on it. Doh! must return...

with Matt G
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
colin milton 23/May/09 Lead dog
with ibbo
mjeffery 19/Apr/09 2nd
SGD 28/Sep/08 Lead

I thought this was hard....actually started on the eliminate by mistake. the start is 5b and the finish is very interesting too. 5b

with Jonathan
Misha 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Jugtastic HVS 5a, not particularly pumpy and with good gear. Final steep slab looked like it would go at 5a on the right hand side so went for the higher left hand side for more of a challenge. Hardest and scariest topout I've ever done ensued, heelhooking whilst pulling on poor slopers and with the prospect of a fall onto some nice rocks on the ledge below the slab, greasy day as well, just about made it... E4 6a? PS: midges got pretty evil.

Brian Rodgers 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Ian Wyatt
Stig 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S


with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 28/Jul/08 2nd O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 20/Jul/08 2nd
Graeme Hammond 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 13/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Fell after arms got totally pumped, too much faffing with gear placements. Good holds but steep and sustained. Completed on second.

cmsg 13/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Gibbering mass of nerves. Didn't think I'd have the strenght to do it, so didn't. Big shame, really.

with Tom Cattermole
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
steveb2006 08/Jun/08 2nd
with Paul Eastwood
Adam1973 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
WB 11/May/08 Lead O/S

and viv

with Guy
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
bob3141 04/Nov/07 2nd
Jesse Dufton 04/Nov/07 Lead
with bob3141
Ram MkiV 05/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 08/Sep/07 Lead dnf
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
Hidden 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
chrisclimber_1986 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with jon
philwont 27/Aug/07 2nd dnf
with Claire and Neil
Joe Dove 26/Aug/07 2nd
with kev
max_chan 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Did as two pitches. I lead the second - up the slab

with Steve
The Reaper 05/Aug/07 2nd O/S
jonka ?/Aug/07 Lead
with chris/gerald
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mark_RMC 09/Jun/07 2nd

A very physical climb. Technically not a challenge (hence tend to agree with new guide's HVS rating). But very physical as overhanging most of the way. Ran out of steam halfway up and came off which was annoying - must get fitter.

with Rob Smart
bullwinkle 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Fantastic! One of the best at the grade!

with Adam W
jimbobimbo 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Central climb to finish, so only gets HVS 5A.. He-man climbing at its best!!

with Gro
JGW ?/Apr/07 Lead
gazfellows ?/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
baldcoder 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with LR_Davidson
dicky79 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Eddie
cem 02/Jul/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Chris M ??/2005 -
steveb2006 23/May/04 Lead
with Pete Carter
Hidden 02/May/04 Lead O/S
Tim W 02/May/04 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2004 -
Neal Jobling ??/2004 Lead O/S
chris sm 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead dnf
Hidden 31/Mar/03 Lead O/S
cem 31/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
phardman 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/02 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/02 Lead dnf

Stopped by slopers around the final roof

with Paul
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 -
FrankW 16/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with James R
Hidden 04/Sep/99 Lead O/S
martroberts 24/May/98 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 25/Nov/95 Lead

My first HVS, scary and excellent!

Roget 28/Jun/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/91 Lead O/S
steveb2006 16/Sep/90 2nd
with Simon Mee
steveb2006 05/Oct/86 Lead

Janet belayed

Hidden ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 50
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set