Great Buttress*** HVS 5a
[Great Buttress,  Dovestone Tor, 2 kb]20m.

Rockfax Description
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously rightwards through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb. © ROCKFAX

FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Great Buttress, Dovestone Tor © caradoc
View all 11 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 238 logbooks, and on 48 wishlists.

lloydrees91 - Lead - 26/Sep/15 with caiti

dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15 with neil

theomoore - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/15

nrhardy - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Rob

charley - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/15 with JackD

Jackwd - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/15 with Charley Fell

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/15

Amazing jug romp - final mantel was interesting!
drewish - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Chris

sopaz - 2nd - 02/Aug/15 with Mackie

admackie - Lead - 02/Aug/15 with paul renwick

marconi - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/15

Very enjoyable. Jugs all the way, pretty much. Not as pumpy as anticipated as there are a couple of opportunities for rests. Finished up the corner as couldn't remember if slab finish was on right or left. Oh yeah - and there was a pro photographer there shooting for a new guidebook. Photos only 'average', apparently, but you never know!
Ian Hylands - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/15 with Antonio Ferra

Wow. Fairly unique on grit for sustained steepness on jugs
Cake - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/15 with John Cooper, Matt

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Michelle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15

Antonio Ferra - 2nd O/S - Jul/15 with Iain

Great climbing through the steep stuff then a bit of an anti climax on the slab at the top. View the steep stuff here...
caradoc - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/15 with nick yapp

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 26/May/15 with Mark Boden

Impressive ground covered for HVS
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/15 with Duncan Cundy

John Nuttall - Lead - 09/Apr/15 with Coel

andybirtwistle - 2015

phil64 - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2015

Merlin - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Jonathon Percival, Dave Tait

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 14/Sep/14

Strenuous, sat on the rope a couple of times whilst removing gear.
batterj2 - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/14 with Jamie

led on alex's pre placed gear as pete and him both led the route before i did and none of us could be bothered to second or ab to clean the route
Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Alex McCann, Pete Briggs

led on alex's gear, pretty pumped by the end but i did hang about a ridiculous amount unnecessarily, just needed to commit
pete1993 - Lead β - 05/Sep/14 with Alex, matt harmon, Nick

on Alex's gear, with the E1 finish up the slab felt pretty steady for HVS if you're used to steep ground then a sketchy 5b topout after the slab.
Nick1812P - Lead β - 05/Sep/14 with India

amccann - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Matt H

indiarara - 2nd dnf - 05/Sep/14 with Nick

Luke Jones - 2nd - 24/Aug/14 with Will, Graham

Freshprintce - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 04/Aug/14

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Debbie

Lived up to all the hype - fantastic route!
Gudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

ned_85 - Lead - 17/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

Nigel Bond - Lead - 11/Jul/14 with Colin Hutton

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah

Alkis did all the hard work placing gear and taking a fall, and I lead with most of the gear pre-placed.
OliverRoss - Lead β - 21/Jun/14 with Alkis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/14

simon1965 - 2nd - 11/Jun/14 with Mark Westerman

Amazing. One of the best
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Colin Struthers

lxg613 - Lead - 03/May/14

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

thetradlad - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Harry Thorpe

Harry Thorpe - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jake Lodge

Frank the Husky - 2014

jayray - 2014

khalidq - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Stephen Cousins, Nick Whelan

So close to blowing the rockover near the top!
danoflynn - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Andy Barker

Wearing two rucsacks so was pretty ruined by the top!
Andrew Barker - 2nd - 12/Jul/13 with Dan O'Flynn

chrisbussell - 2nd - 09/Jul/13 with Tim O'Neill

kim.mulji - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Thea

apw - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Eric

LDJ - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Alfie, Lou

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Andrew Bevan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

Brilliant route. Best HVS on grit? We climbed the eliminate version.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

claregardiner - Lead - 25/Jun/13

Straight forward, run it out and you'll get it!
Jackwd - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Nigel Berry

ColinD - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with Keith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Tried the direct finish, bottled it and went right.
Curly Rich - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Ollie

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Bryony Weathers

sopaz - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Bry - 2nd β - 01/Jun/13 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/May/13

NickJH - Lead dog - Apr/13 with Andy Cross

keith leonard - Lead - 2013

Praps a bit bold and runnign out the gear but a solid first lead :-)
Goose U - Lead β - 09/Sep/12

Great climb but quite overhanging and I let my nerves get the better of me and sat on a piece of gear. Tough lead unless you like overhangs.
jessyb - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Charlie

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Tom Nichols

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Alan Smith

hotfeet - Lead - 14/Jul/12 with James, Mac

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jul/12

tom.e - Solo β - 28/May/12 with Malcolm

Fantastic - good long sustained and interesting.
Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Andrew Marshall

jimorothy - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Scott Barnett

ushi - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Steven, Andy Marshall

hard for the grade, with a mean finishing move!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Claire Holland

max_chan - Lead rpt - 26/May/12 with Phil PCC

Ahab - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Not going well, got abit intimidated. Perhaps not the best selection for the first grit outing of the year. Will be back with more beans...
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/12 with Ian Moore

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

admackie - 2012

vanderz - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with patrick dawson

Barney Rubble's harder brother, bit steeper and more sustained, not as many rests as appears from the ground and a nasty move at the end...
Brannock - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

brill climbing , big holds , hvs in e2 teritory
cobweb - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with martyn hopson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

A bit pumpy, but felt quite steady at the grade.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Rachel B

Jack Whiteley - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

Stunning route in a wild setting Well worth the walk.
andybirtwistle - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Barry D - 2nd - 05/Jul/11 with Richard W

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

One of the best climbs ive done in the Peak.
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with John Newbiggin

Really enjoyed it, and managed to just find enough rest above the big roof for the clean onsight. :) Delicate slab felt a bit out of place but found the correct combination to unlock it.
nick ferro - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Dioni

Paul D Jones - Lead - 04/Jun/11 with Jerome Gill

jiggerypokery - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/11 with Paul Jones

Budge - Lead O/S - 06/May/11 with Brian Mattock, Carl Tiivas

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 01/May/11

dprctr - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Paul Jones

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 23/Apr/11 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 16/Apr/11 with Rachel Takacs, Shaggy, Rosie Henstock

Did the desperate top out on the slab again despite saying I wouldn't, defiantly get the E1 tick for that.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Becky E

Becky E - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Jug-fest with a little bit of thought required! Enough gear and shake out spots.
Batt - 2nd O/S - 2011 with James Hoyes

PAJames - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Middleton

Brilliant jugfest. There are good holds and good gear everywhere making it a pleasant romp up a daunting overhang.
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Hannah Moulton

Shane-Smith - 2nd - 03/Sep/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Bella, Shane

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

burto - Lead β - 16/Aug/10 with ben dorey, malc

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Felt harder than Lancaster Flyby but it was the last climb of the day.
MD - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Heg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10

Richard G Wilkinson - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Dimitris Perdikou

dimwit18 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Richard G Wilkinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Bry - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Andy and Liam

keefe - 05/Jun/10 with Tansy

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Sarah Baker

ian led the top 'pitch' - the crack. greta route on huge holds well protected as well, steep though
lithos - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with ian everett

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Jade

jshields - Lead - 15/May/10 with Ed James

HVS climbing in an E1 position. Definitely no harder than 5a. The final slab moves are well worth while.
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 05/May/10

moreno - 2nd - May/10 with Rob Stone

ieverett - 2nd - May/10 with Rob Stone

Led the final pitch up the overhanging corner
mattparratt - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

Dogmusher - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Johan Piper

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Inkpen

highrepute - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

A good fight. Good gear though tiring to place. Avoided the 'delicate slab' at the top as there was too much rope drag.
bigbobbyking - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris Allan

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

Well worth the walk in. Another gritstone great! Finished the top slab so claiming the E1, get 'em where you can!
nickmattia - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with drew withey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

davidwright - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Sam

Sam couldn't get off the ground so seconded my own lead to get the gear back.
davidwright - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Sam

tradguy - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mark Hazell

A nice route and with very positive holds all the way up. Quite committing in areas as found it time consuming to place gear! Had to second the route too, as belayer slipped into some kind of coma half way through! Oh Helen..
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Helen R

Ketu - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Nigel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

brilliant steep route, tricky start, and some quite committing big pulls higher up, as good gear is tiring to place at times. i thought this was better than GNR at millstone, allbeit a touch easier.
Milne - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Ned

A bit awkward to protect on the really steep bits. I started sprinted through them but by the time I stopped I was quite run out amid not too many decent gear options, hence regreted bypassing gear below. Fortunately the enormous sideways jug and bomber cam wasn't too far away.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Si & Andy

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Chris

Clee - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Chris

nige pacer - 02/Aug/09

RalphC - Lead - 27/Jul/09 with Caroline

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/09

Screwed up taking too long to place gear, got pumped and ended up resting on it. Doh! must return...
Gustav - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09 with Matt G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

colin milton - Lead dog - 23/May/09 with ibbo

mjeffery - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

I thought this was hard....actually started on the eliminate by mistake. the start is 5b and the finish is very interesting too. 5b
SGD - Lead - 28/Sep/08 with Jonathan

Jugtastic HVS 5a, not particularly pumpy and with good gear. Final steep slab looked like it would go at 5a on the right hand side so went for the higher left hand side for more of a challenge. Hardest and scariest topout I've ever done ensued, heelhooking whilst pulling on poor slopers and with the prospect of a fall onto some nice rocks on the ledge below the slab, greasy day as well, just about made it... E4 6a? PS: midges got pretty evil.
Misha - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Ian Wyatt

Stig - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/08

hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd - 20/Jul/08 with graemegraeme

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Duck, Paul Dewey

Fell after arms got totally pumped, too much faffing with gear placements. Good holds but steep and sustained. Completed on second.
Jim Slater - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/08 with Steve Carty

Gibbering mass of nerves. Didn't think I'd have the strenght to do it, so didn't. Big shame, really.
cmsg - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/08 with Tom Cattermole

tobydunford - 2nd β - 13/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/08

Adam1973 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08 with Big Ian

and viv
WB - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Guy

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

bob3141 - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with Jesse Dufton

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 04/Nov/07 with bob3141

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07

howlingbaboon - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/07 with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with jon

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Aug/07

Joe Dove - 2nd - 26/Aug/07 with kev

Did as two pitches. I lead the second - up the slab
max_chan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Steve

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with chris/gerald

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/07

A very physical climb. Technically not a challenge (hence tend to agree with new guide's HVS rating). But very physical as overhanging most of the way. Ran out of steam halfway up and came off which was annoying - must get fitter.
Mark_RMC - 2nd - 09/Jun/07 with Rob Smart

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Paul

Fantastic! One of the best at the grade!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Adam W

Central climb to finish, so only gets HVS 5A.. He-man climbing at its best!!
jimsrankin - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Gro

JGW - Lead - Apr/07

gazfellows - 2nd - Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with LR_Davidson

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Eddie

cem - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Chris M - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/04

Tim W - Lead O/S - 02/May/04 with Darren Miller

sdht - 2004

Neal Jobling - Lead O/S - 2004

chris sm - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/03 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead dnf - Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/03

cem - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/02 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

phardman - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/02

Stopped by slopers around the final roof
Chris the Tall - Lead dnf - Jun/02 with Paul

Hidden - Lead - 2001

tuftynick - 2001

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/00 with James R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/99

martroberts - Lead O/S - 24/May/98

My first HVS, scary and excellent!
Ropeboy - Lead - 25/Nov/95

Roget - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/91

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/90

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/86

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Tony Holdsworth - 01/Jan/70

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam McCarthy, DanChad, hthom, atom, ralphio, poeter210, hutchay, sting, gavinpeach, Greza, Palmer, gianpaolo, Ragnaar, gary.barr, philboy, RockaJo, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Chi Cheng, iceaxejuggler, Hannah Moulton, Mrs Weasel, JiveWeasel, Graham C, AsleepOnBelay, thinair48, Simon Davenport, climbingrick

Total votes cast 176
hard E10 of 50
E10 of 50
easy E19 of 50
hard HVS23 of 50
HVS15 of 50
easy HVS2 of 50
hard VS0 of 50
VS1 of 50
easy VS0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b3 of 47
hard 5a21 of 47
5a22 of 47
easy 5a1 of 47
hard 4c0 of 47
4c0 of 47
easy 4c0 of 47
3 Stars75 of 79
2 Stars4 of 79
1 Star0 of 79
0 Stars0 of 79
Bag of .....0 of 79
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP