Normal route up the Tacul and the first bit of up-hill on the 3-Monts route up Mont Blanc. Be mindful of the seracs that guard the face and cause numerous accidents. The area is also prone to wind loading leading to big avalanches and too many fatalities! Some very large crevasses are also present.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
AndyT1151 06/Sep -
zcsharp 18/Aug AltLd dnf

Bad conditions and less than usual made this dangerous to do.

steve_gibbs 18/Aug -
sivy100 30/Jul -
olekemi 04/Jul Solo O/S
Ken B, Martin F
philmcf ?/Jul -
Mr Spoons 30/Jun 2nd

Didn't summit, too busy. Stopped at col just below. FAR TOO HOT! Snow not in good condition

Vangelis Stavroulakis
thom_jenkinson 26/Jun Solo O/S

In descent after Contamine-Grisole. Moved roped together with hand coils.

chiverstom 23/Jun Lead O/S
ambrooker 22/Jun Lead O/S
Sam Keyne, Tom
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
K Mckay ??/2015 -
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Nov/14 -
Rustyclimb 15/Oct/14 -
davkeo 15/Sep/14 Solo O/S

In descent after Contamine-Grisole.

lanky and weak 08/Sep/14 -
Jason King
Webster ?/Sep/14 Solo

in descent after climbing chere couloir and summiting. practically ran down to make the last bin down.

greenclimb 08/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/14 Solo rpt
JackM92 ?/Aug/14 -
Sam Ash 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Nick_Merriman 21/Jun/14 -
Tim Harper 21/Jun/14 -
Retro Rowan 21/Jun/14 Lead
JackM92 ??/2014 -
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dougbart ??/2014 -
joe.91 24/Sep/13 Solo O/S

In descent.

Hidden 17/Aug/13 Solo
greenclimb 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
mickd 11/Aug/13 -
euanryan 11/Aug/13 -
gavinpeach 01/Aug/13 -
ClimbingGlen 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
John Procter ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Henry's first 4000m peak.

Adamski1986 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Stewart Webb, Kerry Gutteridge
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd
laurence_falconer 06/Jul/13 -
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Al Docherty
thomaspomfrett 26/Jun/13 Solo

In descent

Neil (Conville/Alps)
Hidden 23/Jun/13 -
Avinash Aujayeb 01/Jun/13 AltLd
muzz44 ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/13 Solo rpt
Kris ?/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden ??/2013 -
freeheel47 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
adamwesthead 20/Oct/12 AltLd dnf
JKBowers 12/Aug/12 AltLd

In decent

Ben Bennet
Gareth T 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Tim Popplestone
thetradlad 10/Jul/12 Solo rpt

After deciding the seracs and approach to Chèré Couloir wasn't great. Some nice ice on upper section :)

Harry Thorpe 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
chris687 10/Jul/12 2nd

In descent

pete rowlands, john holliday
Katherine Ross 09/Jul/12 2nd O/S

After bailing off the 3 Monts. Trying to descend the last scrambly bit at the same time as many guided groups were being dragged up was pretty ridiculous.

Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd
gravity 07/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Reached plateau and were within 400m of summit, but fierce winds, cold temps and altitude sickness (Manik) caused us to retreat.

Ian Lau, Manik
Nigel Bond 04/Jul/12 Solo
Bern Hardman
Martin Rowe 02/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jun/12 -
jon_ridley 24/Jun/12 AltLd
becoming-stranger 24/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 24/Jun/12 AltLd
Luke Davies 24/Jun/12 -
Hidden 22/Jun/12 2nd
Prez 22/Jun/12 -
Hidden 02/Jun/12 -
Whitty2012 02/Jun/12 -
Peter Heath, Ian Whitfield
Hidden ??/2012 -
Laramadness ??/2012 -
Sam Simpson 30/Aug/11 -
Hidden 03/Aug/11 -
Hidden 03/Aug/11 -
android_lloyd ?/Aug/11 -
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
sj87 08/Jul/11 -
tc7118 04/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Marky Mark ?/Jul/11 -

4000m acclimatisation peak in preparation for 3 monts route. Beautiful conditions, no problem with crevasses which had nice bridges accross. Set off from cosmiques hut @ 8am (late start) and were back at the midi by 12:30pm. The summit rocks were busy and again provided a sting int he tail to make the route more worthwhile. Weather crapped out the next day so headed to italy and Gran Paradiso instead of MB.

thetradlad ?/Jul/11 -
Alice Manwaring, Philip Pavey, James Brewer
industrialiceman 26/Jun/11 -
tomtom89 25/Jun/11 -
jac00 25/Jun/11 -
Eireannach ?/Jun/11 -
Vladimir Zholobenko, Alek Zholobenko, Nial Browne
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/10 -
Matt Bennett 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

4.5hrs return to midi, loadsa snow, cutting trail

Lewis Grey
Hidden 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Karl Wooffindin 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Probably not PD. no option for F though. Full of Nigel & Jeremy's.

Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
BigHell 01/Aug/10 Solo

Started early in the cold shadow of Tacul descended in the heat of the day , very very quickly.

CWMulcahy 01/Aug/10 -

From Cosmiques hut.

baldie_chick 18/Jul/10 AltLd dnf
Ly-Cilph 18/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

Aborted as Clare got a little scared by the seracs...

groovy_nut 12/Jul/10 -
Jonny M 12/Jul/10 2nd O/S
GiveHerHelen 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 -
jonesieboy ?/Jul/10 -
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/10 -
Lancer ?/Jul/10 -
benny_m 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 -
Ben Briggs ?/Jun/10 Solo

Climbed the route to ski the Gervasutti couloir but had to ski back down the way we went up due to bad weather.

Hidden ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Ross L 08/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
KatieG 02/Sep/09 -
Sam-westcott ?/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead β
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Jillybean 31/Aug/09 -
Simon Marshall
Hidden 05/Aug/09 -
Sam-westcott ?/Aug/09 -
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/09 -
Hidden 05/Jul/09 -
Hidden 29/Jun/09 -
BenJacobs 29/Jun/09 -

in descent

Steve and Ollie
JamesRoddie ??/2009 -
Alex Roddie
milkyjoe 28/Sep/08 -

wanted to do a paraglide descent, but ended up having to fly down from the midi. still spectacular though!

Hidden 27/Aug/08 Lead
Zoomer 21/Aug/08 Lead

2 days before big avalanche!Steady plod with a nice mixed finish. Unfortunatly met the biggest cock of a french guide on the descent who played up to all the stereotypes and nearly put us in mischief. His english clients whispered that 'he wasn't a nice man' as we passed them, ha, money well spent!

Jules 210681 21/Aug/08 2nd
DannyMac 21/Aug/08 2nd
andymoin 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Descent after chere col, Loads of interesting snow bridges over bergscrunds and huge seracs, a nice we walk. Must be a trudge and a half going up!

adw07 10/Aug/08 AltLd

Descended this after the Tacul Triangle, didn't look like much fun coming up it though.

Nick Donohue
Neil Mackenzie 10/Aug/08 -

descent through some cool territory

aged_ape 08/Aug/08 -
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 30/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Only a hill 24/Jul/08 -

Well within guidebook time. A cracking mountain but the route was a little monotonous!

James Roddie
Hidden 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?/Jul/08 -
jimsrankin ?/Jul/08 AltLd
SteveMyatt 30/Jun/08 Solo O/S

Great view from the top, plently of inspiration. Had to summit to ourselves- nice touch for my first 4000er.

Mark Fairbank
david0811 30/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Joined the route after climbing Chere Couloir.

Mark Reid
markfairbank 30/Jun/08 Solo

Moved roped together the whole way, just a snow plod really for acclimatisation purposes, but still my first 4000er with a great view from the summit.

Hidden 18/Jun/08 -
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Griff87 ??/2008 -

Git Avalanched by collapsing cerac had to initiate rescue for climber below us who was struck by ice boulder

Chris Sawdon
Hidden 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/07 Lead
matty g 01/Aug/07 AltLd
dj_brigham05 ?/Aug/07 -
rob k ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
C Amis
Hidden 29/Jun/07 2nd
bugmonkey 02/Jun/07 -
Wanderer100 ?/Jun/07 -
cheekyboy ??/2007 Lead
Dave Stead
dror ??/2007 -

not good for first acclamatization unless you turn around well before summit.

Jim Brooke ?/Aug/06 -
kevburr 28/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Eric du Camp
Hidden 24/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/06 -
Chris Davids 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Russell Lovett 09/Jul/06 AltLd
andrew haigh
Tom Stoddart 01/Jul/06 -
Tom Slade
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Epic Ebdon ?/Jul/06 -

Awesome! Easy, but fun, cracking views.

Jon Rogerson, Stuard Heald
tommytuffa ?/Jul/06 -
ollie b
Hidden 30/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/06 -
djking1983 30/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Brian Birtle 27/Jun/06 -

Solo without the skis

Stuie 23/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Jon Rogerson & Tim Ebdon
Joubert ?/Jun/06 -
Brian Birtle ?/May/06 -
Patagonian Thomas and Tom
Brian Birtle ?/Apr/06 -

On ski. Nice powder day!

German Thomas
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Solo
mathquirk 22/Sep/05 -
Babu Blatt
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
swiss ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 -
Stefan ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

More of a snow plod than a climb really, but 'had to be done' on the way to the summit of Mt Blanc.

Pete Jenkins
Hidden 28/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Cham group
chrissloan84 ?/Jul/05 -

More of a roped up walk than a climb

Somerset swede basher ?/Jul/05 2nd O/S
Masa Sakano
mmalbon ?/Jul/05 -

My first 4000 meter sumit. Relatively easy as you get 6am Midi cable car to 3800 meters then walk via the gate to narrow snow/ice ridge to the Vallee Blanche at about 3500 meters (I think). From here you thread your way through the massive crevaces on the north west face to the long ridge on the skyline. Then continue for what seems like forever along the top of this to scramble up the the little rocky pyramid that makes up the sumit. A few days after we did this a number of Royal Marines were killed in an avalanche on the same route - a stark reminder of the dangers of alpinism.

jimorothy ?/Jul/05 AltLd

Zipped up this telling Rachel how, round by round, England would go about winning the World Cup in 2006... ah well.

Rachel Crolla
fizzy_elephant ?/Jun/05 -
Rob Williams
Stuart Johnston ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S

In winter with snow shoes before I knew how dangerous this face could be!

Lara Kuehl
clams ??/2005 -

Left too early and got to summit before dawn

AD, Liam
Ewan Russell ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S

Suffered altitude sickness, which felt quite severe at the time.

Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Will Gordon ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Irish bloke
Hidden ?/Jul/04 -
Alpandy ?/Jul/04 -
Will Homoky 26/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

4-5 hrs from hut. Good conditions.

Ned Atkins
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
LardClimber ?/Jun/04 -
tom_holdsworth 20/Sep/03 -
Will Taylor
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
edek_w ?/Jul/03 -
Phill_ Thompson ?/Jul/03 -
Mike Lea, Lucy Prins
abbeywall ?/Jul/03 -
Hidden 30/Jun/03 -
Hidden 14/Jun/03 AltLd
Smelly Fox 20/Apr/03 Lead dnf
Rosie, Al reaney, Rob Clifton
Dave Bond ?/Sep/02 -
john leyland
markshaf 02/Aug/02 Lead
Gareth Hartwell
MJH ?/Aug/02 -
Keith D
mikehenesy ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Rob Beadnel
Andy Clarke 29/Jul/02 Lead

So well acclimatised were able to jog up and made summit in about 1hr 40.

stuartm555 19/Jul/02 AltLd

Douglas Cowan
Ander 10/Jul/02 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/02 Lead
Ian Roberts ?/Jun/02 -
barrington1978 ?/Aug/01 -
Hidden ?/Jul/01 -
Tim W ??/2001 -
nickdonohue 03/Sep/00 -

In descent

Mark McCarthy
paul birch ?/Jul/00 -
andrewbooth1000 30/Aug/99 Solo
rlrs ?/Aug/99 AltLd
ajoliver ?/Jun/99 -
Jonathan Russell
Hidden 10/Aug/98 -
Richard Alderton ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 -
surfdad ??/1998 -
Bilbo 05/Aug/97 -
tomkhoward ??/1997 AltLd O/S
Nick (SICMC)
Colin Edwards ?/Jul/96 -
Miles Goff, Malcolm Flatt, Clive Osbourne
stokesrees ??/1996 Solo
auld al ?/Jul/95 Solo O/S
John Simpson ?/Mar/95 AltLd O/S
Jim O Kane
Hidden 10/Jun/94 Solo
brady 30/Jul/93 AltLd
Mark Duffield
Hidden 27/Jul/93 -
Hidden 27/Jul/93 -
Hidden 27/Jul/92 -
Hidden ?/Sep/90 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/90 -
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/90 Lead

Done as part of 3M's route up Mont Blanc.

Luc Percival
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 Solo

Descent after Gervasuti Pillar

mark-abz ?/Aug/88 Solo

In descent

Andy W
freeheel47 ?/Jul/87 -
jmr 15/Jul/77 AltLd

Nice day long ago. My first 4000er. Easy climbing, but loose snow slopes - recognised these days as quite dangerous, hence PD+. We found a nice little alternative finishing gully with considerable exposure. Memorable but for the wrong reason. Got sick on descent. A psycho, (you, the police and I know who you are) had 'spiked' my water bottle with some yellow-brown oily stuff. If you (psycho) ever read this then stay away from me and climbing. Such people exist even among climbers it seems. Didn't realise what had happened at the time, but found out later in life. Bob had to push me back up the arete to the A. du Midi for the last cable car down. Also on a bit of dark note, there had been a recent plane crash on the final ridge with debris: aircraft tail still sticking out of the snow! Wow. What a day!

Bob Howard
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set