Haute Savoie > Mont Blanc du Tacul >
 
North-West Face** PD

Adjacent Climbs
<< Mont Blanc du Tacul summit
 
Diable (South-East) Ridge >>
[Looking down to the Aiguille du Midi, 3 kb]Normal route up the Tacul and the first bit of up-hill on the 3-Monts route up Mont Blanc. Be mindful of the seracs that guard the face and cause numerous accidents. The area is also prone to wind loading leading to big avalanches and too many fatalities! Some very large crevasses are also present.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: Looking down to the Aiguille du Midi © Katherine Ross
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 225 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/14

lanky and weak - 08/Sep/14 with Jason King

greenclimb - AltLd - 08/Aug/14 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/14

Hidden - Solo rpt - 06/Aug/14

Sam Ash - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Jake Shaw

Climbingdrummer - 21/Jun/14 with Retro Rowan

Retro Rowan - Lead - 21/Jun/14 with climbingdrummer

The Ghost Rider - 2014

jcw - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

In descent.
joe.91 - Solo O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Thomas Reid

Hidden - Solo - 17/Aug/13

greenclimb - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Sarah

mickd - 11/Aug/13

euanryan - 11/Aug/13 with Willis

gavinpeach - 01/Aug/13 with Glen Dickson

ClimbingGlen - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Gavin Peach

m296mux - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Henry's first 4000m peak.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Henry Haworth

Adamski1986 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Stewart Webb, Kerry Gutteridge

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/13

blackreaver - AltLd - 07/Jul/13 with Peter, Tom L, Owen

laurence_falconer - 06/Jul/13

steve_gibbs - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/13 with Al Docherty

In descent
thomaspomfrett - Solo - 26/Jun/13 with Neil (Conville/Alps)

Hidden - 23/Jun/13

Avinash1 - AltLd - 01/Jun/13

muzz44 - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Ryan

Hidden - Solo rpt - 08/May/13

Kris - Solo - Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

freeheel47 - 2013

Hidden - 2013

adamwesthead - AltLd dnf - 20/Oct/12 with Dad

In decent
JKBowers - AltLd - 12/Aug/12 with Ben Bennet

Gareth T - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/12 with Tim Popplestone

After deciding the seracs and approach to Chèré Couloir wasn't great. Some nice ice on upper section :)
thetradlad - Solo rpt - 10/Jul/12 with Harry Thorpe

Harry Thorpe - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/12 with Jake Lodge

In descent
chris687 - 2nd - 10/Jul/12 with pete rowlands, john holliday

After bailing off the 3 Monts. Trying to descend the last scrambly bit at the same time as many guided groups were being dragged up was pretty ridiculous.
Katherine Ross - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Becky Hampshire

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/12

Reached plateau and were within 400m of summit, but fierce winds, cold temps and altitude sickness (Manik) caused us to retreat.
gravity - AltLd dnf - 07/Jul/12 with Ian Lau, Manik

Nigel Bond - Solo - 04/Jul/12 with Bern Hardman

Martin Rowe - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/12 with Paul Carroll

Hidden - 28/Jun/12

jon_ridley - AltLd - 24/Jun/12 with Will Pope, Emily Cropton

becoming-stranger - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Emily Cropton, Jon Ridley

Emily Cropton - AltLd - 24/Jun/12 with Jon Ridley

Luke Davies - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/12

Prez - 22/Jun/12

Lots of snow, great conditions going up, icy on the final rock scramble. Snow bridges on the crevasses had disappeared on descent, wet snow coming back across the Col du Midi. Took guidebook time + 1hr
Ian_Whitfield - 02/Jun/12 with Peter Heath, Whitty2012

Whitty2012 - 02/Jun/12 with Peter Heath, Ian Whitfield

Hidden - 2012

Laramadness - 2012

Sam Simpson - 30/Aug/11 with Stuart Air

Hidden - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - 03/Aug/11

android_lloyd - Aug/11

Hidden - Aug/11

tc7118 - Solo O/S - 04/Jul/11

4000m acclimatisation peak in preparation for 3 monts route. Beautiful conditions, no problem with crevasses which had nice bridges accross. Set off from cosmiques hut @ 8am (late start) and were back at the midi by 12:30pm. The summit rocks were busy and again provided a sting int he tail to make the route more worthwhile. Weather crapped out the next day so headed to italy and Gran Paradiso instead of MB.
Marky Mark - Jul/11

thetradlad - Jul/11 with Alice Manwaring, Philip Pavey, James Brewer

industrialiceman - 26/Jun/11

tomtom89 - 25/Jun/11 with Jack

jac00 - 25/Jun/11 with Tom

Eireannach - Jun/11 with Vladimir Zholobenko, Alek Zholobenko, Nial Browne

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 26/Aug/10

4.5hrs return to midi, loadsa snow, cutting trail
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Lewis Grey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/10

Probably not PD. no option for F though. Full of Nigel & Jeremy's.
Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10

Started early in the cold shadow of Tacul descended in the heat of the day , very very quickly.
BigHell - Solo - 01/Aug/10

From Cosmiques hut.
CWMulcahy - 01/Aug/10

baldie_chick - AltLd dnf - 18/Jul/10 with kidB

Aborted as Clare got a little scared by the seracs...
Ly-Cilph - AltLd dnf - 18/Jul/10 with Clare A

groovy_nut - 12/Jul/10 with Patrick

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Helen Tsai

GiveHerHelen - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Jon Moulding

Hidden - 03/Jul/10

jonesieboy - Jul/10

dannyboy83 - Jul/10 with Emily

Lancer - Jul/10

benny_m - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Ali Brown

Hidden - 22/Jun/10

Climbed the route to ski the Gervasutti couloir but had to ski back down the way we went up due to bad weather.
Ben Briggs - Solo - Jun/10 with Brendan

Hidden - 2010

keith leonard - 2010

Ross L - 2nd - 08/Sep/09

andybrown114 - Lead - 06/Sep/09 with Robbie Rickman, Beccy Hart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/09

KatieG - 02/Sep/09

Sam-westcott - Sep/09

Hidden - Lead β - Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Jillybean - 31/Aug/09 with Simon Marshall

Hidden - 05/Aug/09

Sam-westcott - Aug/09

Tom Livingstone - Aug/09

Hidden - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - 29/Jun/09

in descent
BenJacobs - 29/Jun/09 with Steve and Ollie

JamesRoddie - 2009 with Alex Roddie

wanted to do a paraglide descent, but ended up having to fly down from the midi. still spectacular though!
milkyjoe - 28/Sep/08 with tom

Turned round at 4000m
andybrown114 - Lead - 27/Aug/08 with Nick Woodmansey, Jon Burnside, Bill Slee, Kate Sharpe

2 days before big avalanche!Steady plod with a nice mixed finish. Unfortunatly met the biggest cock of a french guide on the descent who played up to all the stereotypes and nearly put us in mischief. His english clients whispered that 'he wasn't a nice man' as we passed them, ha, money well spent!
Zoomer - Lead - 21/Aug/08 with J. Cartwright & D McAndrew

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 21/Aug/08 with glenn bloomer

DannyMac - 2nd - 21/Aug/08 with glenn bloomer

Descent after chere col, Loads of interesting snow bridges over bergscrunds and huge seracs, a nice we walk. Must be a trudge and a half going up!
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Neil Mackenzie

Descended this after the Tacul Triangle, didn't look like much fun coming up it though.
adw07 - AltLd - 10/Aug/08 with Nick Donohue

descent through some cool territory
Neil Mackenzie - 10/Aug/08 with Andy

aged_ape - 08/Aug/08 with MB

Hidden - Aug/08

Tom Livingstone - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/08

Well within guidebook time. A cracking mountain but the route was a little monotonous!
Only a hill - 24/Jul/08 with James Roddie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/08

robertporter - Jul/08

jimsrankin - AltLd - Jul/08 with Mel

Great view from the top, plently of inspiration. Had to summit to ourselves- nice touch for my first 4000er.
SteveMyatt - Solo O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Mark Fairbank

Joined the route after climbing Chere Couloir.
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Mark Reid

Moved roped together the whole way, just a snow plod really for acclimatisation purposes, but still my first 4000er with a great view from the summit.
markfairbank - Solo - 30/Jun/08 with SteveyM

Hidden - 18/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Git Avalanched by collapsing cerac had to initiate rescue for climber below us who was struck by ice boulder
Griff87 - 2008 with Chris Sawdon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07

Turned round at steep icy traverse above bergshrund
andybrown114 - Lead - 15/Aug/07 with Lara Herbert, John Barneby, Andy Nelstrop, Tony Lancashire

matty g - AltLd - 01/Aug/07

dj_brigham05 - Aug/07

rob k - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with C Amis

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/07

bugmonkey - 02/Jun/07

cheekyboy - Lead - 2007 with Dave Stead

not good for first acclamatization unless you turn around well before summit.
dror - 2007

Jim Brooke - Aug/06 with Juan

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/06 with Eric du Camp

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/06

Hidden - 17/Jul/06

Chris Davids - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Mark

Russell Lovett - AltLd - 09/Jul/06 with andrew haigh

Tom Stoddart - 01/Jul/06 with Tom Slade

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Awesome! Easy, but fun, cracking views.
Epic Ebdon - Jul/06 with Jon Rogerson, Stuard Heald

tommytuffa - Jul/06 with ollie b

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/06

Hidden - 30/Jun/06

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/06

Solo without the skis
Brian Birtle - 27/Jun/06 with Moi-meme

Stuie - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/06 with Jon Rogerson & Tim Ebdon

Joubert - Jun/06

Brian Birtle - May/06 with Patagonian Thomas and Tom

On ski. Nice powder day!
Brian Birtle - Apr/06 with German Thomas

Hidden - Solo - Oct/05

mathquirk - 22/Sep/05 with Babu Blatt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

swiss - AltLd - Sep/05

Hidden - Aug/05

More of a snow plod than a climb really, but 'had to be done' on the way to the summit of Mt Blanc.
Stefan - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Pete Jenkins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/05

bpmclimb - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/05 with Cham group

More of a roped up walk than a climb
chrissloan84 - Jul/05 with Sim

Somerset swede basher - 2nd O/S - Jul/05 with Masa Sakano

My first 4000 meter sumit. Relatively easy as you get 6am Midi cable car to 3800 meters then walk via the gate to narrow snow/ice ridge to the Vallee Blanche at about 3500 meters (I think). From here you thread your way through the massive crevaces on the north west face to the long ridge on the skyline. Then continue for what seems like forever along the top of this to scramble up the the little rocky pyramid that makes up the sumit. A few days after we did this a number of Royal Marines were killed in an avalanche on the same route - a stark reminder of the dangers of alpinism.
mmalbon - Jul/05 with Mick

Zipped up this telling Rachel how, round by round, England would go about winning the World Cup in 2006... ah well.
jimorothy - AltLd - Jul/05 with Rachel Crolla

fizzy_elephant - Jun/05 with Rob Williams

In winter with snow shoes before I knew how dangerous this face could be!
Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - Mar/05 with Lara Kuehl

Left too early and got to summit before dawn
clams - 2005 with AD, Liam

Suffered altitude sickness, which felt quite severe at the time.
Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with Mike(Dad)

Turned round at upper large bergshrund
andybrown114 - Lead - Aug/04 with Kate Sharpe, Steve Gokhale, Amanda Brown

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Irish bloke

Hidden - Jul/04

Alpandy - Jul/04

4-5 hrs from hut. Good conditions.
Will Homoky - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/04 with Ned Atkins

Hidden - Jun/04

tom_holdsworth - 20/Sep/03 with Will Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

edek_w - Jul/03

Hidden - 30/Jun/03

easers - AltLd - 14/Jun/03 with Doug Aitken

Smelly Fox - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/03 with Rosie, Al reaney, Rob Clifton

Dave Bond - Sep/02 with john leyland

markshaf - Lead - 02/Aug/02 with Gareth Hartwell

MJH - Aug/02 with Keith D

mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with Rob Beadnel

So well acclimatised were able to jog up and made summit in about 1hr 40.
Andy Clarke - Lead - 29/Jul/02 with JamesW


stuartm555 - AltLd - 19/Jul/02 with Douglas Cowan

Ander - Solo - 10/Jul/02 with Kev

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/02

Hidden - Lead - Jul/02

Ian Roberts - Jun/02

barrington1978 - Aug/01

Hidden - Jul/01

Tim W - 2001 with Matt Kilner, Jamie Moss

In descent
nickdonohue - 03/Sep/00 with Mark McCarthy

Hidden - Jul/00

andrewbooth1000 - Solo - 30/Aug/99

rlrs - AltLd - Aug/99

ajoliver - Jun/99 with Jonathan Russell

Hidden - 10/Aug/98

Richard Alderton - 1998 with Nicola, Giblet

Tarquin - 1998

surfdad - 1998 with Richard Alderton

Bilbo - 05/Aug/97 with Steve

tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Nick (SICMC)

Colin Edwards - Jul/96 with Miles Goff, Malcolm Flatt, Clive Osbourne

stokesrees - Solo - 1996

auld al - Solo O/S - Jul/95

Hidden - Solo - 10/Jun/94

brady - AltLd - 30/Jul/93 with Mark Duffield

Hidden - 27/Jul/93

Hidden - 27/Jul/93

Hidden - 27/Jul/92

Hidden - Solo - Sep/90

Hidden - Jul/90

Done as part of 3M's route up Mont Blanc.
Pete_Frost - Lead - Jul/90 with Luc Percival

Descent after Gervasuti Pillar
mark-abz - Solo - Aug/88

In descent
mark-abz - Solo - Aug/88 with Andy W

freeheel47 - Jul/87

Nice day long ago. My first 4000er. Easy climbing, but loose snow slopes - recognised these days as quite dangerous, hence PD+. We found a nice little alternative finishing gully with considerable exposure. Memorable but for the wrong reason. Got sick on descent. A psycho, (you, the police and I know who you are) had 'spiked' my water bottle with some yellow-brown oily stuff. If you (psycho) ever read this then stay away from me and climbing. Such people exist even among climbers it seems. Didn't realise what had happened at the time, but found out later in life. Bob had to push me back up the arete to the A. du Midi for the last cable car down. Also on a bit of dark note, there had been a recent plane crash on the final ridge with debris: aircraft tail still sticking out of the snow! Wow. What a day!
jmr - AltLd - 15/Jul/77 with Bob Howard

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jennym32, Sianny, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard PD+0 of 20
PD+0 of 20
easy PD+6 of 20
hard PD1 of 20
PD11 of 20
easy PD1 of 20
hard PD-1 of 20
PD-0 of 20
easy PD-0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 19
2 Stars15 of 19
1 Star4 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed24 of 225 (10.7%)
Lead24 of 225 (10.7%)
Followed13 of 225 (5.8%)
Alt Leads55 of 225 (24.4%)
Unknown109 of 225 (48.4%)

'Climbed'165 of 225 (73.3%)
clean O/S50 of 225 (22.2%)
clean β1 of 225 (0.4%)
clean rpt4 of 225 (1.8%)
dnf5 of 225 (2.2%)