Derbyshire > Dovestone Tor >
 
The Shylock Finish* HVS 5a

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[The outrageous Shylock Finish (VS 5a) to Route 1 at Dovestone Tor, 1 kb]6m. From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always being careful not to lose a pound of flesh - wild! © ROCKFAX
FA. Stuart Gascoyne 1981

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: The outrageous Shylock Finish (VS 5a) to Route 1 at Dovestone Tor © Simon Caldwell
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Pete Briggs

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with India

amccann - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/14

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Debbie

Spectacular moves - definitely worth doing!
Gudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

nedly - Lead - 17/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/14

Wild, but somehow feels artificial despite being the direct finish.
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Jack

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jake Lodge

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

the power - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with deacon

Jackwd - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Nigel Berry

ColinD - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Keith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

SuperLee1985 - 2nd β - 09/Jun/13

brownie mike - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

keith leonard - 2nd - 2013

john_ni - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond (PCC)

Dovestone Tors equivalent of Almscliffs 5* finish but to Route 1. Not sure why I didn't do this when I did Route 1 before.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with John Bayliss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

easier for the tall, who can go straight up if need be.
Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Andrew Marshall

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Claire

max_chan - 2nd rpt - 26/May/12 with Phil PCC

cem - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Truckle

andybirtwistle - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

JEP - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11

joemallia - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

smeaton - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with dusty

Great! Its a shame Route 1 wasnt climbed with this finish originally.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/10

keefe - 05/Jun/10 with Tansy

jshields - Lead - 15/May/10 with Ed James

Yuck
mattparratt - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Inkpen

awesome exposed finish. well worth doing as the rest of route 1 is a waste of time past this.
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with Ed O'Connell

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

simon1965 - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with peakdj

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Nigel

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/09 with Emma Hawkins

nige pacer - 02/Aug/09

Not sure I did the end correctly but quality route with loads of mantling!
john.gaffney - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Peter Morrisdaboss

Think i went accross to high, which is a shame as the next people up to a very dramatic line - next time!
morrisdaboss - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with JB

a gratuitous photo-op finish for route 1
adam carless - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jon_nz

matsavage - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/08

.. So I was stood at the top of Route 1 in very strong wind pondering whether I dared have a crack at it. After what seemed like hours of shivering and tooing and throwing I decided I'd go for it, fiddled a 3.5 cam in back and forth trying to get the best bomber placement. After several failed attempts of trying to whip my left foot out to the left but it was just too far to do! Eventually, I jammed my right hand as far to the right as I could, and my left hand in the break. then I "Supermaned" out facing right with my right foot cocked up on the right, and pulled up and reached for the break above, got it hung it and stood up, scuttled out left only to realise there was no gear and I was just in a cave stuck! Eventually edged out back carefully and reached over to the thank god gargoyles! Top notch will have to try and do it in better style sometime!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/08 with Matt Marshall

tobydunford - 2nd β - 13/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

max_chan - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Lou

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim

Joe Dove - Lead - 26/Aug/07 with paul

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Angel Vila

max_chan - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Steve

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07

Great route and a wild finish!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Pete Krug & Louise Farr

GPN - Lead - Apr/06 with Paul James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/05

sdht - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/03

Hidden - Lead - Apr/03

cem - 2nd - 31/Aug/02 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

iskra2000 - Lead - 25/Jun/99 with Duncan Hornby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, RalphC, LittleJoe, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E10 of 11
E10 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard HVS0 of 11
HVS0 of 11
easy HVS5 of 11
hard VS6 of 11
VS0 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 17
5b0 of 17
easy 5b0 of 17
hard 5a1 of 17
5a12 of 17
easy 5a3 of 17
hard 4c1 of 17
4c0 of 17
easy 4c0 of 17
3 Stars10 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star5 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 67 (1.5%)
Lead40 of 67 (59.7%)
Followed22 of 67 (32.8%)
Unknown4 of 67 (6.0%)

'Climbed'23 of 67 (34.3%)
clean O/S38 of 67 (56.7%)
clean β2 of 67 (3.0%)
clean rpt4 of 67 (6.0%)