Rockfax Description
From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always being careful not to lose a pound of flesh. Wild! © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Gascoyne 1981

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

cf2g08 01/Nov Lead O/S


with Iain
Jackwd 05/Sep Lead rpt
charley 05/Sep 2nd O/S
with JackD
Luke90 12/Aug Lead O/S

I think the whole climb deserves HVS, though the finish itself was quite easy to lank out with long arms. One of the mantle moves would have been quite tricky to protect without cams.

with Liz
sopaz 02/Aug 2nd
with Mackie
admackie 02/Aug Lead O/S
LakesWinter 09/Jul 2nd
Cake 09/Jul Lead O/S

Best VS I've done in ages. The moves keep coming throughout

Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
John Nuttall 09/Apr Lead
with Coel
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with India
amccann 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Gudge 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Spectacular moves - definitely worth doing!

ned_85 17/Jul/14 Lead
Nevil 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
GermanAlex 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Wild, but somehow feels artificial despite being the direct finish.

with Jack
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
the power 29/Jun/13 2nd
with deacon
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Nigel Berry
ColinD 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Keith
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
SuperLee1985 09/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
brownie mike 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2013 2nd
Wyrdwired ??/2013 Lead O/S
john_ni 08/Aug/12 2nd
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Dovestone Tors equivalent of Almscliffs 5* finish but to Route 1. Not sure why I didn't do this when I did Route 1 before.

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 2nd O/S

easier for the tall, who can go straight up if need be.

with Andrew Marshall
JamieSparkes 26/May/12 Lead O/S
max_chan 26/May/12 2nd rpt
with Phil PCC
cem 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Rob Truckle
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
JEP 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
smeaton 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dusty
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead

Great! Its a shame Route 1 wasnt climbed with this finish originally.

Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 2nd


ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/10 Lead

awesome exposed finish. well worth doing as the rest of route 1 is a waste of time past this.

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
simon1965 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with peakdj
Ketu 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Nigel
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 08/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins
nige pacer 02/Aug/09 -
john.gaffney 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Not sure I did the end correctly but quality route with loads of mantling!

with Peter Morrisdaboss
morrisdaboss 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Think i went accross to high, which is a shame as the next people up to a very dramatic line - next time!

with JB
adam carless 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

a gratuitous photo-op finish for route 1

with Jon_nz
matsavage 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 05/Aug/08 Lead O/S

.. So I was stood at the top of Route 1 in very strong wind pondering whether I dared have a crack at it. After what seemed like hours of shivering and tooing and throwing I decided I'd go for it, fiddled a 3.5 cam in back and forth trying to get the best bomber placement. After several failed attempts of trying to whip my left foot out to the left but it was just too far to do! Eventually, I jammed my right hand as far to the right as I could, and my left hand in the break. then I "Supermaned" out facing right with my right foot cocked up on the right, and pulled up and reached for the break above, got it hung it and stood up, scuttled out left only to realise there was no gear and I was just in a cave stuck! Eventually edged out back carefully and reached over to the thank god gargoyles! Top notch will have to try and do it in better style sometime!

tobydunford 13/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
max_chan 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd
Joe Dove 26/Aug/07 Lead
with paul
RichardMc 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
max_chan 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Adam W
Sidekick 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Different Steve 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Great route and a wild finish!

with Pete Krug & Louise Farr
GPN ?/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/05 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2004 -
Hidden 26/May/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
cem 31/Aug/02 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
iskra2000 25/Jun/99 Lead
with Duncan Hornby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hthom, Hidden, Hidden, RalphC, LittleJoe, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set