The Shylock Finish** VS 5a
[The outrageous Shylock Finish (VS 5a) to Route 1 at Dovestone Tor, 1 kb]6m.

Rockfax Description
From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always being careful not to lose a pound of flesh. Wild! © ROCKFAX


FA. Stuart Gascoyne 1981

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: The outrageous Shylock Finish (VS 5a) to Route 1 at Dovestone Tor © Simon Caldwell
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 79 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

I think the whole climb deserves HVS, though the finish itself was quite easy to lank out with long arms. One of the mantle moves would have been quite tricky to protect without cams.
Luke90 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Liz

sopaz - 2nd - 02/Aug/15 with Mackie

admackie - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/15 with paul renwick

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/15

Best VS I've done in ages. The moves keep coming throughout
Cake - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15 with John Cooper, Matt

MTL - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Steve Marsh

John Nuttall - Lead - 09/Apr/15 with Coel

Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Pete Briggs

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with India

amccann - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/14

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Debbie

Spectacular moves - definitely worth doing!
Gudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

ned_85 - Lead - 17/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/14

Wild, but somehow feels artificial despite being the direct finish.
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Jack

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jake Lodge

thetradlad - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Harry Thorpe

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

the power - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with deacon

Jackwd - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Nigel Berry

ColinD - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Keith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

SuperLee1985 - 2nd β - 09/Jun/13

brownie mike - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

keith leonard - 2nd - 2013

Wyrdwired - Lead O/S - 2013

john_ni - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond (PCC)

Dovestone Tors equivalent of Almscliffs 5* finish but to Route 1. Not sure why I didn't do this when I did Route 1 before.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with John Bayliss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

easier for the tall, who can go straight up if need be.
Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Andrew Marshall

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Claire Holland

max_chan - 2nd rpt - 26/May/12 with Phil PCC

cem - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Truckle

andybirtwistle - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

JEP - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11

joemallia - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

smeaton - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with dusty

Great! Its a shame Route 1 wasnt climbed with this finish originally.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/10

keefe - 05/Jun/10 with Tansy

jshields - Lead - 15/May/10 with Ed James

Yuck
mattparratt - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Inkpen

awesome exposed finish. well worth doing as the rest of route 1 is a waste of time past this.
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with Ed O'Connell

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

simon1965 - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with peakdj

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Nigel

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/09 with Emma Hawkins

nige pacer - 02/Aug/09

Not sure I did the end correctly but quality route with loads of mantling!
john.gaffney - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Peter Morrisdaboss

Think i went accross to high, which is a shame as the next people up to a very dramatic line - next time!
morrisdaboss - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with JB

a gratuitous photo-op finish for route 1
adam carless - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jon_nz

matsavage - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/08

.. So I was stood at the top of Route 1 in very strong wind pondering whether I dared have a crack at it. After what seemed like hours of shivering and tooing and throwing I decided I'd go for it, fiddled a 3.5 cam in back and forth trying to get the best bomber placement. After several failed attempts of trying to whip my left foot out to the left but it was just too far to do! Eventually, I jammed my right hand as far to the right as I could, and my left hand in the break. then I "Supermaned" out facing right with my right foot cocked up on the right, and pulled up and reached for the break above, got it hung it and stood up, scuttled out left only to realise there was no gear and I was just in a cave stuck! Eventually edged out back carefully and reached over to the thank god gargoyles! Top notch will have to try and do it in better style sometime!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/08 with Matt Marshall

tobydunford - 2nd β - 13/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

max_chan - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Lou

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/07

Joe Dove - Lead - 26/Aug/07 with paul

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Angel Vila

max_chan - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Steve

masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Adam W

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07

Great route and a wild finish!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Pete Krug & Louise Farr

GPN - Lead - Apr/06 with Paul James

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/05

sdht - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/03

Hidden - Lead - Apr/03

cem - 2nd - 31/Aug/02 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

iskra2000 - Lead - 25/Jun/99 with Duncan Hornby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hthom, RalphC, LittleJoe

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS6 of 14
hard VS8 of 14
VS0 of 14
easy VS0 of 14
hard HS0 of 14
HS0 of 14
easy HS0 of 14
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
hard 5a1 of 20
5a15 of 20
easy 5a3 of 20
hard 4c1 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars12 of 21
2 Stars4 of 21
1 Star5 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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