UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove in the arete to the flat roof then step left to a grasping exit. Fortunately large cams in the final break (hard for the short to place) reduce the stress levels. © Rockfax

FA. Ian Riddington 1984.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Reeve 26 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down.
βeta?
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βeta: Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down.
UKB Shark 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent
UKB Shark 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 15
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great West Road

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)

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