Rockfax Description
Climb the left wall to the break. Traverse round the arete on jams where a powerful move gains the arete - then sprint. Low in the grade but intense for a moment or two. A good but bold Direct Start, E3 5c, laybacks the unprotected lower arete. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Briggs 1976

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

dr_botnik 03/Mar Lead O/S
theomoore 10/Jan Lead O/S
ralphio 18/Nov/15 Lead O/S

First clean E2 lead. Half slapped for the top and nearly dropped it.

with Marcin
lithos 30/May/15 2nd

nice moves....

with Gav
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/15 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Felt very commiting/scary on the last moves!

Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Apr/15 2nd
with Nic Sellars
climberchristy 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

This gets E1 5b in newer Rockfax Eastern Grit guide but gets E2 5c in my older one. To me it felt on the cusp between the two but more towards top end E1? Hardish move for 5b getting standing up around the arÍte and then just a bit run out to the top. Not a bad line.

with Ben Cole
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
robblowen 28/Feb/15 2nd dog

Felt hard getting around the arÍte.

with Jonny
ashtond6 28/Feb/15 Lead O/S

I think there maybe a 5b sequence, way I did it was solid 5c! Really good route

Rachel Slater 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
bigdrew 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Packs it in for such a short route.

with Swanny
WillDoyle 13/May/14 Solo
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 11/Apr/14 2nd
with al
Stoney Boy 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

E15b at most

with Phil Cundy
Sam Simpson 27/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/13 Lead β
James Oswald 31/Jan/13 2nd


with L
deacondeacon 16/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Good route with a nice little bold finish. Pretty soft for E2.

JamieSparkes 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Interesting, with a bold feeling finish. I thought E2 5b, second - E1 5c.

with CCLee Leatherbreaker
Cake 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Good route, but E1 5c

Gudge ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Woodsy
disturbed_one51 02/Jun/12 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/12 Lead
Matt Cooke 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 15/Feb/12 Lead
cragtyke 27/Nov/11 2nd
with john g
James Oswald 20/Nov/11 Lead dog

Fell while placing cams in the break, because the skin on my hand gave way causing me to slip off... Really painful! Then gave it another go, committing to get stood up in the break is tricky but really nice, crimp on the arete. Then over to the right is an almost ok cam in a flared break. I don't really think it would have held.. Superb.

with Bart
tebs 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Easier if you don't jam surprisingly. Tough moves above the break. Good effort from James.

with james
Brannock 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Took a fall and a rest at the break and getting gear into the break, lowered back down and then lead it clean.

Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Dave Foster 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

E2 5b. E1 climbing with nice run out at the top (the E2 bit).

with Si
ojp 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave
M_W_Court 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
akhughes 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 11/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Adam Hughes
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead
harold walmsley 08/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Colin Struthers
masonwoods101 ??/2011 Lead O/S

guide said e3 but e2 may be right

Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
petellis 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Felt tough goung round the corner. Not going well today.

Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

really enjoyed must have stumbled on a good sequence as it felt more like a HVS

Hidden 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Marti999 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

had to run off after as started to rain.

with Olliy, Gary Jackson
drewish 04/Jul/10 2nd dog

silly miostake coming around the arete, upper section is the best bit

with SteveE9
nai 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mel
Si dH 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Worth 2 stars at least. Low in grade for E2, maybe just 5c.

with Chris Foster
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd dog
mark20 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
steveb2006 16/Apr/10 2nd

Led this recently - have a look at Caravagio but retreat

with David Andrew
J.Wells ?/Apr/10 Lead dog

I suck at climbing, made an absolute meal of it.

with Alex Matthews-King
Martin Haworth 28/Mar/10 Lead dog

Fell. while sorting gear. Got back on and finished route. Committing top section

with richard white, Tony
geddicakes 28/Mar/10 2nd
Mike_Hayes 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth, Richard White
steveb2006 27/Mar/10 Lead
Laurence Everitt 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Mark D
Mark D 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
john lynch 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S

nice route with varied climbing.

with Neil Elmore
markfairbank 31/Oct/09 2nd
with Harry Middleton
danm 07/May/09 2nd
Tony Little 22/Mar/09 2nd
with Dan
SteveM 20/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Cragrat Rich
Cragrat Rich 20/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Pretty steady ascent (except for unexpected foot-slip at a most unwanted moment of course). Fresh back from US trip, so fighting fit and mad for it and hence it felt good!

Hidden 20/Oct/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

my first natural grit E25c! must be low in the grade. very nice though - quite physical pulling round onto face and quite blind / balancey gaining top.

Becky E 03/Feb/08 2nd dnf

Too cold! Added to wishlist.

mattyork2 03/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Felt hard for E1 as given in guide. Ran it out slightly unneccesarily by not putting cams in highest break, then struggled to find some good gear. Going back around the arete, as it says in guide, seemed improbable with gear far out right, and more burly on slopers, so balanced in superb position up the face. May only be 5b, but top end. Excellent route on all accounts.

Hidden 18/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Mutl3y 17/Apr/07 2nd
with TonyM
Hidden 25/Mar/07 2nd dog
steveb2006 25/Mar/07 Lead

Failed on this last October so pleased to do it ok this time. Finish feels bold but gear in the mid height break is very good

with Simon Pape, Valerie Partington
Toby Dunn 21/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/06 Lead
steveb2006 18/Nov/06 Lead

Fail - one to come back to

with Malcolm Leik
adam carless 15/Oct/06 2nd O/S

A good mixture of stuff; flakey start, jamming middle, smeary top

with Fiend
Coel Hellier 25/Jun/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Chris Reid 21/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Roget 20/Sep/97 Lead rpt
with jon
goi.ashmore 20/May/95 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
uphillnow ??/1995 Lead

photo of myself leading it - possibly with chris bolton

Roget 23/May/93 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Calum Wadsworth, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Becky E
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set